ARB front locker...shoud I or not? (1 Viewer)

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Thanks for everyone's thoughts...Placed the order...ARB front and factory rear...Should be good to go! I appreciate everyone's opinion, etc.

Much appreciated.

Mike

Congrats! I'm jealous!

Are you planning on using the 80 series OEM switch?

If so, have you given thought to triggering the compressor from the CDL lock button? (I would imagine one would never need either the front/rear locker if the center was still open--or am I missing something?) I know bunch of folks have simply used the RL mode of the 80 switch to trigger both the compressor and the rear lock, but I thought I heard that there might have been some downsides to doing the (E.g., rear not always engaging? not sure on this, but something I thought I recalled reading...)
 
That's only for people with ARB rears, you just have to make sure you're stopped. with teh elocker it'll still work like normal, but turn on the compressor for when you need the front. my lockers are wired to an 80 switch....rear turns on compressor and locks the rear, front locks the front
 
You could wire the compressor to turn on with the center diff locked but you'd be running it more than you need to. I'd wire it like Loud has his.

Definitely do the 80 series switch. On my 99 I have it and then I wired the compressor to come on with the front only.
 
That's only for people with ARB rears, you just have to make sure you're stopped. with teh elocker it'll still work like normal, but turn on the compressor for when you need the front. my lockers are wired to an 80 switch....rear turns on compressor and locks the rear, front locks the front

Just to make sure I understood this correctly:

With the ARB front and rear air lockers, you can have it setup such that:

Off - Compressor is off, both front and rear are open
RR - turns on compressor and locks rear
RR+FR - keeps compressor on, keeps rear locked, and locks front

This seems ideal if it works like this!
 
Yes, do it! And do it soon, the free compressor deal ends april 30th!


Ok...What do you guys think...I have a 99 LC. Going to keep a long time...Should I do the front locker? Will cost me around 1200 for everything. Granted, I want to save the money, but I don't want to have the front diff. break and cause more headaches and money in the future...I am leaning towards purchasing...

What do you think? Thanks for your thoughts.
 
Just to make sure I understood this correctly:

With the ARB front and rear air lockers, you can have it setup such that:

Off - Compressor is off, both front and rear are open
RR - turns on compressor and locks rear
RR+FR - keeps compressor on, keeps rear locked, and locks front

This seems ideal if it works like this!

If I remember correctly, Christo had a copy of that wiring diagram on his site. I had looked at doing the ARBs on my 4Runner with the 80 switch like this. Decided to stick with the ARB switches.
 
all the factory 80 switch is is three prongs, power in, then outputs that get turned on by the swtich
 
Howdy folks,

this is my first time in this forum, very interesting stuff...

I was thinking if I could bother you guys a little bit with my doubts about which locker would be best for my case.

I'm about to finish the building of my latest project which is a 4WD that looks more like a JK, it's completely custom made. It has 2003 Dana 44 axles, (I guess 30 spline), runs with an MWM Turbo Diesel engine 2.8L which puts out about 160HP at 3500 RPM, Eaton transmission 5th OVERDRIVE.

I've always used 33' tires but my plan is getting 35s when I'm done with this one.

Now I ask you guys, what locker (I need a selectable one) will be best for me? An electronic one perhaps? How do I find out what is the gear ratio for it?

I'm sorry, I suck at this...

Cheers,
Bruno
 
Random but related question..

What makes a front diff stronger when you add the ARB pumkin?

You still have the same carrier bearing, same ring and pinion gear..

Are the spider gears changed?

What usually brakes on a stock front diff?

Thanks!
:cheers:
 
When you have the ARB locker installed, just make sure the very little to no oil mist comes out the air breather.

ARB installed mine, and then repaired it at their cost . . . twice.

The first time the installer nicked the seal in the locker, so lots of oil leaked out the breather. They kept telling men it was normal, and wouldn't fix it. Then it failed on a trip, and another ARB dealer had to fix it.

That first fix was outsourced, and the subcontractor screwed up the rear seal, so that enough oil again leaked out, this time out the rear seal. I had it fixed by a real differential expert, and ARB reimbursed me in full.

So check that oil breather for a while after installation! I now have the breather going into a little bottle, so I will always know if it leaks, which it hasn't since the second fix.

BTW, I like the ARB switches, just because I can turn the compressor on at any time for things like pumping up tyres. But I could still do that with Loud's arrangement, as long as the truck wasn't moving, and it would be kind of neat. Maybe if I get bored and want a project to do. :D
 
I fitted an ARB to the front of my 2001 VX TD four weeks ago and can just say AWESOME. :D

After fitment we did a trip into the mountains with lotsa mud on slopes. We only then discovered that the factory rear wouldn't want to lock, so my wife did the whole trail only with the front Locker and me with the 40 having both (piece of cake for the 40 :steer:). She did very well in the 100, and the front Locker pulled her through really bad patches in Low Range. :princess:

The nice extra with an ARB front and Factory rear is that one can also use them independently, especially in thick sand up a dune, where pulling is better then pushing unless you switch on both. You can also use the ARB front in High Range, thus getting a higher top speep up a dune, which is not possible in LR, meaning you will never be able to use rear locker in such conditions. Unless you change the switch mode.

Anyway that ARB really proved to be a good investment! :cheers:
 

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