- Thread starter
- #41
I shall have to attempt to take power measurements. I noticed this morning that the fridge wasn't working, and just now had a peek again and the red light is flashing, even with the solar panel hooked up.
ARB fridge questions (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Enigma
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- Thread starter
- #42
I really don't understand this stuff......
Anyways, hooked up my multimeter, yes on the DC setting...fridge is plugged in, solar panel is plugged in.
Tested the starting battery first, 12.69v. Perfect right?
Test the acc battery, and the meter was jumping around from around 9.4V to 11.7v. weird.
Unplug the fridge and test the acc battery, 11.77 V. Which is odd because with the fridge set on LO, it should cut off when the battery reaches 10.1V.
Leaving the fridge unplugged, I plugged the solar panel back in and took another reading at the acc battery; 12.10V. With no direct sunlight on it.
Plug the fridge back in, and the readings are again cycling from about 9.3 to 11.7.
I unplugged the fridge again on stuck my fancy Genius smart charger on the battery for the night.
Electrical stuff is such voodoo.
Anyways, hooked up my multimeter, yes on the DC setting...fridge is plugged in, solar panel is plugged in.
Tested the starting battery first, 12.69v. Perfect right?
Test the acc battery, and the meter was jumping around from around 9.4V to 11.7v. weird.
Unplug the fridge and test the acc battery, 11.77 V. Which is odd because with the fridge set on LO, it should cut off when the battery reaches 10.1V.
Leaving the fridge unplugged, I plugged the solar panel back in and took another reading at the acc battery; 12.10V. With no direct sunlight on it.
Plug the fridge back in, and the readings are again cycling from about 9.3 to 11.7.
I unplugged the fridge again on stuck my fancy Genius smart charger on the battery for the night.
Electrical stuff is such voodoo.
Could there be something wrong with the fridge then?
I don't know too much about electrical but it should not jump that much around should it?
Is your inverter shut down also?
I don't know too much about electrical but it should not jump that much around should it?
Is your inverter shut down also?
- Thread starter
- #44
Fridge doesn't run off the inverter, but yes the power switch is turned off.
Jeff it sounds like you have a faulty wire or connection somewhere.
I ended up having to re solder the prongs in the arb wiring harness when I re installed my fridge. Clean up all your connections and double check them. Should be fairly simple trouble shooting by yet again I am not an electrician
I would test each component in insolation.
Do not run the ARB on an inverter - you get better quality power through a battery. Disconnect the solar to eliminate that complication. What kind of charge controller is your solar going through - the voltage on my panels varies up to 21 volts depending on solar intensity. The cheaper charge controllers cannot use voltage above - I think 14.5 v
Does your 3rd battery voltage fluctuates only when hooked up to your fridge (and does not fluctate measured on a stand-alone basis?). Measuring a battery hooked up to an alternator or solar feed will not measure the battery output only the highest voltage feed.
Sounds like a problem in the low voltage dc shut-off relay in the fridge. Relays that have used a lot can actually wear out or arc. Focus your attention on that potential problem.
Failing that call the ARB tech department in Seattle. My $0.02
Do not run the ARB on an inverter - you get better quality power through a battery. Disconnect the solar to eliminate that complication. What kind of charge controller is your solar going through - the voltage on my panels varies up to 21 volts depending on solar intensity. The cheaper charge controllers cannot use voltage above - I think 14.5 v
Does your 3rd battery voltage fluctuates only when hooked up to your fridge (and does not fluctate measured on a stand-alone basis?). Measuring a battery hooked up to an alternator or solar feed will not measure the battery output only the highest voltage feed.
Sounds like a problem in the low voltage dc shut-off relay in the fridge. Relays that have used a lot can actually wear out or arc. Focus your attention on that potential problem.
Failing that call the ARB tech department in Seattle. My $0.02
I didn't really explain myself but I know u had a inverter that was not running the fridge.
I ain't no electrician either, just another plumber
- Thread starter
- #49
For the record...I DO NOT run my fridge off the inverter and I DO NOT have a third battery.
The charge controller is a PWM style, not the fancier MPPT.
I had it in my head that my solar system was 100W, but it's only 50W.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/ca-bc-coastal-cruisers/495325-solar-power.html
The charge controller is a PWM style, not the fancier MPPT.
I had it in my head that my solar system was 100W, but it's only 50W.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/ca-bc-coastal-cruisers/495325-solar-power.html
I thought the 'acc battery' was your third (accessory) battery - is this the acc circuit from the fuse panel?
- Thread starter
- #51
Just being lazy and calling it my ACCessory battery.
- Thread starter
- #52
One of the electrical guys here at the office suggested I take a look at these Neutrik connectors:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=092-058
Typically used for industrial type loud speaker connections, but can handle large wire and amperage, vibrations, moisture.
And they are pretty damn inexpensive.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=092-058
Typically used for industrial type loud speaker connections, but can handle large wire and amperage, vibrations, moisture.
And they are pretty damn inexpensive.
Looks good. I wonder why they have not taken off like the Anderson plugs?
Probably to do with marketing
- Thread starter
- #55
From what I understand they have, but only in the proffesional audio world.
Used them all the time when I was working in that industry... Called NL4 n NL8 IIRC were the terms for them.. 4 = 4 wire and so on
Neutrik makes SpeakON NL2, NL4, and NL8. NL8 is used for bi-amped speakers. These are speaker connections, most pro amps have NL connectors, these are what I used at the last Cruiser Days. Neutrik also makes PowerCON, we use these for power distribution
http://www.neutrik.com/en/audio/powercon/powercon-20-a/
I seem to be running some related issue...
My fridge was set on hi (my mistake) only last for about 6 hours
I was running on an single battery, odyssey 2150 brand new
I am wondering how voltage work (drop) on a deep cycle battery... and how even if I set it at lo, will it still blinks when I get more than half the juice in my deep cycle?
Asking that because I will install a 2nd 2150 tomorrow, and I am now wondering if I should install my solenoid on the ignition, or should I simply connect these 2 monster batteries in parallel to get longuer fridg use... without compromising my chances of starting the next day... ?
My fridge was set on hi (my mistake) only last for about 6 hours
I was running on an single battery, odyssey 2150 brand new
I am wondering how voltage work (drop) on a deep cycle battery... and how even if I set it at lo, will it still blinks when I get more than half the juice in my deep cycle?
Asking that because I will install a 2nd 2150 tomorrow, and I am now wondering if I should install my solenoid on the ignition, or should I simply connect these 2 monster batteries in parallel to get longuer fridg use... without compromising my chances of starting the next day... ?
sailor
Jackass of all trades
under no circumstances run an isolator.
and when calculating total battery capacity, don't forget Peukert's equation...
and when calculating total battery capacity, don't forget Peukert's equation...