anyone using 130w 9005 highbeams? (1 Viewer)

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i just got the slee harness. i have been using the hela 80w 9006 low bulbs for over a year and have realy enjoyed the extra light for cheap-and they just barely burned out (within 2 hours of eachother). i just baught some 130w 9005 highs on ebay from japan for only $15. i did a search and little on these. will they melt the housing?
 
i just went through this and do a search and you will find my thread

i tried some 100w cheapos from JC Whitney (against everyones recommendation) and they werent all that bright and had an annoying hue to them.

i installed the 9005 HIR Toshiba John Deere bulbs and it made a world of difference!

dont bother with the cheapys, go with the HIR's from www.danielsternlighting.com

i have the slee harness and have the HIR bulbs for my lows and my highs and LOVE them!
you wont be dissapointed
 
Do us a favor and keep a camera with you so you can take some pictures of your truck burning to the ground. The 9005 cannot safely handle 130 watts, the socket is not designed for it.
 
I've been using 100w high beams in the 93 since new and find they actually penetrate farther than the HIR high beams in my 97. However, there are some hot spots with the 100w vs the HIR's nice smooth and balanced pattern. I can't recall the 100w brand, but they're high end German ones I bought a handful of years back when they were available. They last a couple years. When they're gone I'll switch to the HIRs happily so both will have these high/low (93 currently low only).

But 130 watts? Wow - I highly recommend against that. I used and still have around a 130w bulb in my full size Hellas and even they got disturbingly hot. Would not put one in the stock lamp - even with an upgraded harness.

DougM
 
Where there is smoke..................................
 
I have 90/130 watt Flosser Halogens on mine and have had them over a year, however I rarely use my high beams. To date I have not had problems with my lights, though I might get some relays put on them if the consensus is that I'd melt my wiring.

I have the same bilbs on my PIAA's but that's no worry. Piaa's have ceramics.


Kalawang
 
I have a aux harness and I run the IPF HIR 130 watt(they state they are 65 w,with the equilivant of 130w). Never measured anything but have been running these bad boys for well over 4 year in two different trucks. the same set have lasted for well over 3 years in the current truck. They have not melted anything yet. No signs of melting. I have used my high beams for many hours on long trips. I like them (run the 100w (50w to 100w) Hir IPF in the low beam for the same amount of time). I can not say what a cheap blub will do, but the high dollar one from ARB work great and I have no issues with a aux harness in place. I can not say what the true wattage is either, I just know I like the the light and the output on the road. later robbie
 
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Back when i had my Tacoma i had the ARB headlight upgrade harness and ran the IPF 100/170w H4 bulbs and they were flat out AWESOME for light output!!!

I only had them in the truck for about 6-8 months before i got rid of the whole truck, but they were flawless while i owned them and i used those 170W highs fairly often offroad. Now i am A LITTLE more mature an knowledgable, i think back to how powerful they were and wonder if they damaged the housings, never thought to look back when i was 19!

Anyway, a link to those bulbs is here: (unfortunately they only have them in H4's)

http://www.rocky-road.com/jeepipf.html
 
There are few things to keep in mind here:

1) The IPF bulbs are a 55 watt and 65 watt, not 130 watt bulbs.

2) There is big difference between the US spec 9005 and 9006 bulbs and the H4s and H1s used overseas. H4 and H1 bulbs are designed to handle much more current through their connectors and the actual bulb housing. Take a look at the difference between the 9006/9005 design and the H designs. The 900x design uses a plastic housing with small connectors while the H designs are all metal, with connectors that are about 3x as large as the 900x bulbs. This is why Daniel Stern does not sell overwatt 900x bulbs, they are a fire hazard.
 
cary said:
There are few things to keep in mind here:

1) The IPF bulbs are a 55 watt and 65 watt, not 130 watt bulbs.

2) There is big difference between the US spec 9005 and 9006 bulbs and the H4s and H1s used overseas. H4 and H1 bulbs are designed to handle much more current through their connectors and the actual bulb housing. Take a look at the difference between the 9006/9005 design and the H designs. The 900x design uses a plastic housing with small connectors while the H designs are all metal, with connectors that are about 3x as large as the 900x bulbs. This is why Daniel Stern does not sell overwatt 900x bulbs, they are a fire hazard.

Yep, Cary is right. You are actually running 65/50w bulbs rather than 130/100w. I think the "equivalence" rating is like what PIAA uses. That is, the color temperature is equivalent to a higher wattage bulb that burns "whiter" due to higher heat. I'd look at the actual lumens output as a sanity check. If you want brigher high's, I'd do something like get the 4-rectangular lamp conversion like what you can get in Oz or like the JDM ones for 100,000 yen, but replace all lamps w/ rectangular Cibie/Hella e-codes or the highs w/ e-codes and the lows w/ rectangular HID's. You can even rig them up so all 4-lamps have high beam, etc.
 
Or mount a pair of full size auxiliary lamps. A set of Hella 4000 euro beam auxiliary lamps will blow your mind compared to even hotted up 80 high beams. I ran one fog and one euro beam for years - they're so big each did the work of two normal size aux lamps.

DougM
 
cary said:
There are few things to keep in mind here:

1) The IPF bulbs are a 55 watt and 65 watt, not 130 watt bulbs.

2) There is big difference between the US spec 9005 and 9006 bulbs and the H4s and H1s used overseas. H4 and H1 bulbs are designed to handle much more current through their connectors and the actual bulb housing. Take a look at the difference between the 9006/9005 design and the H designs. The 900x design uses a plastic housing with small connectors while the H designs are all metal, with connectors that are about 3x as large as the 900x bulbs. This is why Daniel Stern does not sell overwatt 900x bulbs, they are a fire hazard.


Cary,

Thanks for the heads up. I've grown so used to H4 that I totally forgot that you guys use different systems. My headlights and PIAA's are all H4.



Kalawang
 
IdahoDoug said:
Or mount a pair of full size auxiliary lamps. A set of Hella 4000 euro beam auxiliary lamps will blow your mind compared to even hotted up 80 high beams. I ran one fog and one euro beam for years - they're so big each did the work of two normal size aux lamps.

DougM

Listen to Doug on this one. The trick of mixing the two lamps is an old one that works well. 4000's put out an obscene amount of light because of their large reflectors combined with big bulbs. They will kill anything out there, including the best factory HID systems.
 
thaks for the enlightenment. the hella 4000's look great too. im looking on ebay-these lights run 100 bucks a pop. if one were to buy only one light should it be the 4000 fog, euro, or pencil if the purpose of the light is to light up a dark desolate highway for driving long distances at night when oncoming traffic is not an issue? is there an almost comprable cheaper alternative? Im already $55 into this with the harness and 130w bulbs. no regrets on the slee however.
 
Dusty said:
thaks for the enlightenment. the hella 4000's look great too. im looking on ebay-these lights run 100 bucks a pop. if one were to buy only one light should it be the 4000 fog, euro, or pencil if the purpose of the light is to light up a dark desolate highway for driving long distances at night when oncoming traffic is not an issue? is there an almost comprable cheaper alternative? Im already $55 into this with the harness and 130w bulbs. no regrets on the slee however.

Euro beam. Cheaper alternative are the 3000, 2000 & 1000 Hella lamps. Check out this deal on the 1000 Driving from rallylights ($89 for the pair with harness)

http://www.rallylights.com/hella/ff1000.asp

They aren't the same as the 4000 but will put out a good amount of light.


BTW, you can get the 4000's individually for $96 on rallylights and the kit for $230.
 
I have the HIR high and lows that some here got through a group buy. They worrk WAY better than the cheapo 100w you get at most auto shops. If you want a wee bit more, I added 2 lighforce 240 blitz. Can't outdrive those puppies.
Cheers,
Sean
 
When I mixed two different lights, I used 3000s - one fog and one euro beam. The euro would be your ticket and they're cheaper than the 4000s. For grins, I put a 130 watt bulb in the Euro for a while. Uh, scratch that - it was for one trip. It was so insanely bright that I actually shielded my eyes with my hand when passing highway signs. Ran it with a 100w (still insane) for a little while, then back to a 55w bulb. After a couple months of this I finally decided even this was so much light that when I doused it I was kinda nightblind for a half minute or so and replaced it with another fog. One 3000 euro beam will rock the night.

One of my 80s has 3000 fogs, the other 4000 fogs. Both competition level output.

DougM
 
I ran 130 watt bulbs in my '98 Taccoma for years with no issues, and I run my High beams in town, in the neighborhood, any time there isn't someone coming toward me.
 

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