Anyone use this dual battery isolator? (1 Viewer)

93yotasr5

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I’ve seen a ton of install videos for this kit but no reviews. I read a lot of the reviews on amazon but was curious if anyone on here had used one and what they thought of it. I like the simplicity of it.
Keyline ISO-Pro 140

7701DEFA-54E2-48C3-B7CE-73AB89E214AA.png
 

bajaphile

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I'm sure it works fine, but why not just go with the Blue Seas ACR which is just as simple and less cost? The only thing with this unit you have linked is that it comes with cable. Most people just buy some jumper cables and cut to length.

FYI this kit still would require circuit breakers at the batteries for safety.
 

davegonz

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I bought it because it was pretty much a turnkey solution....and it was cheap. So far so good.
 

davegonz

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1 month. A buddy has had his a couple of months and has had no issues.
 
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What accessories are you running?

At only 140 Amps, it's kinda limited.

I'm running 2 winches and I still want to be able to use them even if my primary battery were to fail.

That means the circuit between the primary and secondary batts should be rated for at least 450Amps.

I'm using a 500Amp (700Amp burst) solenoid as well as an adjustable timer relay I had to leftover from one of my bus contracts.

Simple, reliable and cheap.


Your starter motor can pull more than 250Amps during a cold start, so at only 140Amps, it would be underated even for an emergency back up start.
 

davegonz

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Yeah, depends on what you need it for. I use mine only to charge a secondary battery for the fridge and accessories in the cargo bay (lights, etc).
 

93yotasr5

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What accessories are you running?

At only 140 Amps, it's kinda limited.

I'm running 2 winches and I still want to be able to use them even if my primary battery were to fail.

That means the circuit between the primary and secondary batts should be rated for at least 450Amps.

I'm using a 500Amp (700Amp burst) solenoid as well as an adjustable timer relay I had to leftover from one of my bus contracts.

Simple, reliable and cheap.


Your starter motor can pull more than 250Amps during a cold start, so at only 140Amps, it would be underated even for an emergency back up start.
At this point I will only be moving my aux fuse block over to the house battery which only powers my light bars , aux fan and CB radio. I have a small power inverted that will most likely get hard wired to the house battery as well. Sometime in the future I may run a fridge.
The winch will stay on the starting battery.

Not sure if the above kit will be fine for this or not
 

LC4LIFE

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I would avoid it simply because of the size of wiring it comes with. Some simple math around the lengths you'll need to install it, and the 7awg wiring it comes with, concludes it's not the right gauge for our alternators and/or the current that may be traveling through the unit. Undersized wiring leads to heat and too much heat leads to fire, and that is bad. You will need fuses or circuit breakers for protection as well.

As mentioned before, the BlueSea ACR is about a good as it gets for robust and reliable. After that just size the wiring correctly.
 

93yotasr5

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I would avoid it simply because of the size of wiring it comes with. Some simple math around the lengths you'll need to install it, and the 7awg wiring it comes with, concludes it's not the right gauge for our alternators and/or the current that may be traveling through the unit. Undersized wiring leads to heat and too much heat leads to fire, and that is bad. You will need fuses or circuit breakers for protection as well.

As mentioned before, the BlueSea ACR is about a good as it gets for robust and reliable. After that just size the wiring correctly.
that makes sense. If I went with the blue sea unit, what else besides cables would I need? Would I still need a fuse and or circuit breaker?
 
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that makes sense. If I went with the blue sea unit, what else besides cables would I need? Would I still need a fuse and or circuit breaker?
I will likely be running the blue sea 150amp. Wouldn't be pulling from house battery to start...its just to link them when there is a charging source (alternator or solar). I will use 1/0 awg since I have some but thats probably overkill. I think stock battery cables are 2 or 4?
 

LC4LIFE

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that makes sense. If I went with the blue sea unit, what else besides cables would I need? Would I still need a fuse and or circuit breaker?
It depends on which unit and how you plan to use it when combined. I recommend fusing all the time, except for in some very unique circumstances.
If you do something like the BlueSea 7610, all you need is the cables and fuses. With the 7610, you can very easily come up with a cost effective, very reliable, robust dual battery system.
 

93yotasr5

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It depends on which unit and how you plan to use it when combined. I recommend fusing all the time, except for in some very unique circumstances.
If you do something like the BlueSea 7610, all you need is the cables and fuses. With the 7610, you can very easily come up with a cost effective, very reliable, robust dual battery system.
Im liking the Blue Sea 7610 option. Do you have a suggestion on what fuse/circuit breaker to use and what amp? To be clear, I’ll need one for each battery and then another one going from the house battery to the auxiliary fuse box correct?
I don’t mind sourcing the cables and other small parts myself. I just want a simple option that will require zero maintenance and last a long time.
The below pic is what I assume it needs minus the auxiliary fuse box.

F6AB68AD-37D0-4F82-B3DF-52D59BCAAB9D.jpeg
 
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chap79

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Im liking the Blue Sea 7610 option. Do you have a suggestion on what fuse/circuit breaker to use and what amp? To be clear, I’ll need one for each battery and then another one going from the house battery to the auxiliary fuse box correct?
I don’t mind sourcing the cables and other small parts myself. I just want a simple option that will require zero maintenance and last a long time.
The below pic is what I assume it needs minus the auxiliary fuse box.

View attachment 2401588
I would fuse to max surge of the ACR ~ 200amps
 

chap79

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Also I would recommend using fuses vs circuit breaker inside the engine bay due to thermal degradation.
 
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Also I would recommend using fuses vs circuit breaker inside the engine bay due to thermal degradation.

I prefer fuses over a breaker mainly due to weathering :hmm:

Breakers are mechanical and have been known to freeze up or fail to fuction properly with age, especially when exposed to the elements :(

I threw one on my rig last year when I wanted an easier way to disconnect some of my accessories when parked for weeks at a time, but I'll be getting rid of it and re-installing my ANL fuse holder when I clean up my mess of wiring this weekend :redface:

 

93yotasr5

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Ok so what I am thinking is that I’ll use the blue sea 5191 at the positive terminals with a 200a fuse, and then the 5005 going to the auxiliary fuse box.
That sound about right?

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