Anyone use solder kits? Filling rust pitting

[broth9640]

Hey has anyone ever used Solder to fill rust pitting ? I have a fair bit of pitting on my floor boards on both the passenger side ,driver side and under the gas tank. I would like to salvage the floors by patching with 18 gauge and using solder to smooth the pitting.
Here is a link to what I am talking about:

http://www.eastwood.com/ew-body-solder-kit-basic-with-dvd.html

 

[broth9640]

I would of course get the lead free kit so I could hit it with a grinder

 

[Pin_Head]

I don't see the point of doing it in areas that won't be seen. It is just for cosmetics. If the rust compromises the mechanical strength of the floor, replace it by welding in new steel.

 

[Folkert]

for smoothing areas like that, use liquid metal bondo, it some sort of 2 component stuff you plaster onto the areas and sand it smooth, because of the chemical metal ingredients, it etches onto the bare metal surface and is as strong as metal when fully cured... designed to paint afterwards..

i used a brand named Debrasel, dunno about a US brand that does the same...

great stuff!!!!!

Automobile Products DEBRASEL

 

[cjgoode]

That is more then pitting, I can see through parts of it. The soldering I do not think will add any real strength to it, If the metal is still strong and you want it for appearances or to just seal the holes I would use epoxy or body filler. It will be a lot cheaper and easier to work with and I think the outcome will be the same. Elmers has a fix all plastic epoxy, it works great ends up more like plastic and more flexible then body filler. But do not under estimate body filler, when mixed right and applied right it is very tough, I have had to use a grinder to take some off the PO's put on. Maybe one day I will be able to mix and apply it that well. I have also welded holes like that with a mig welder. Held a brass spoon on the back and filled the holes with the mig welder then ground smooth.. I did not want to cut the metal out, and it was solid other then the few holes.

 

[Roboosfj40s]

I agree wiwth the other guys. I use Bostik Marine Epoxy on my areas like that. It is self leveling and does take several hours to set but easily sandable and paintable.

 

[lostmarbles]

Besides ... solder will only stick to clean bare metal, You'd have a hell of a job getting the rust pits free of rust to be able to fill the pits with solder at all.

I favour STEEL. (Welding/patching)

 

[Michael Hanson]

Id cut and weld since you have come this far. MIke

 

[antFJ]

I have also welded holes like that with a mig welder. Held a brass spoon on the back and filled the holes with the mig welder then ground smooth.. I did not want to cut the metal out, and it was solid other then the few holes.

I agree with this.. some of the smaller holes can be welded up using this technique.. use brass on one side and weld on the other.. like said above make sure the surface is clean and go to town.. grind down smooth and you're good to go.. i did this to the many smaller holes in my driver floor yet had to cut out and replace another section entirely.. gotta use some judgement on what you think is right

 

[broth9640]

Thanks for the input guys. I will be welding patches and spot welding with a brass spoon. It looked like an easy fix, but why half ass it at this point.

 

[1973Guppie]

cut out all the weak metal including the pitted crap and weld in new sheet metal, anything else is half ass IMO.....