Anyone Replace Quarter Panel Sliding Windows with Polycarbonate? (1 Viewer)

[testler]

I'm in the middle of working on a little project to revamp the 3rd row sliding windows of my 80 series. Thinking about replacing them with polycarbonate. Was looking at getting UV resistant, Abrasion Resistant, tinted polycarbonate. Anyone have any experience with this material? I know it's got great operating temps, is super strong, and comes at an affordable price. Most come with a 10 year warranty on discoloring and such. Any downsides?

 

[Pascoscout]

Are you thinking about removing the entire sliding assembly or just removing the glass and putting the poly into the window frame? If the former you'll likely need the gaskets for the solid glass option to make your conversion work.

 

[testler]

Are you thinking about removing the entire sliding assembly or just removing the glass and putting the poly into the window frame? If the former you'll likely need the gaskets for the solid glass option to make your conversion work.

I’m not quite sure which option yet. I was actually thinking about trying both and seeing what I like best. I already have extra gaskets for either option.

 

[iptman]

Just get oem solid glass and tint it before you install it. Still available through any dealer last I looked. Not too expensive either.

 

[Pascoscout]

The only downside I could see is since the poly is slightly flexible it might make it easier for someone to pop out the window to gain access to the truck. Not sure how much of a concern that is since people who really want in will just break the glass anyway. Be interested to see how it turns out, converting to solid glass in the rear is on my to do list.

 

[clx16]

I am not bashing the idea just wondering what the motivation is. I know it will be lighter and might be safer in a role over etc. I seem to think the glass has a slight curve, but that might not really matter. if you've broken the glass, it may be cheaper. although i don't know what glass goes for from a salvage yard.

Also if two people close two doors at the same time, it might try to blow them out if you don't secure them really well.

 

[Fj81]

You can replace them with gullwings, then you have some use out of the rear without opening the hatch.

 

[testler]

The only downside I could see is since the poly is slightly flexible it might make it easier for someone to pop out the window to gain access to the truck. Not sure how much of a concern that is since people who really want in will just break the glass anyway. Be interested to see how it turns out, converting to solid glass in the rear is on my to do list.

I am not bashing the idea just wondering what the motivation is. I know it will be lighter and might be safer in a role over etc. I seem to think the glass has a slight curve, but that might not really matter. if you've broken the glass, it may be cheaper. although i don't know what glass goes for from a salvage yard.

Also if two people close two doors at the same time, it might try to blow them out if you don't secure them really well.

You can replace them with gullwings, then you have some use out of the rear without opening the hatch.

As far as motivation goes, I'm in the middle of designing gullwing windows as replacements. I think I've figured out a way to create ultralight, super sturdy, lockable gullwing windows at low cost. I'm prototyping them for my truck and am just curious about long term usage of polycarbonate. The blowout issue is definitely something to consider and test. The hopes are that, if this goes well, I'd like to get them into the hands of people for around $300 or less per side. Just want to make a more affordable gullwing window solution for people that still kicks ass and looks great. Big hopes but we'll see...

 

[Outsane]

sounds interesting!

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

There is a lot of interest but how does one deal with yellowing and scratching?

 

[testler]

There is a lot of interest but how does one deal with yellowing and scratching?

That’s a great question. Marine Grade polycarbonate is abrasion and UV resistant. It can be tinted and has a 10-15 year warranty against discoloration and clarity related problems. Still researching but definitely an interesting prospect.

 

[smritte]

I worked for GM for almost 4 decades and dealt with a ton of "hatch" type windows (top hinge) and "pop out" (side hinge) as well as all kinds of window sealing issues with frame-less windows. Here's a few things that may help you if you don't already know them. I'm going to assume your not framing the window and the mounting pieces (hinge, latch) go through the window.

Almost all of the problems I saw were sealing. Too much, too little or uneven tension on the weather strip leads to leaking (air or water). Hinge and latch placement is critical.
A common technique used for checking weather strip tension is the "dollar bill test". Close the window on a dollar bill and when you pull it, it drags slightly coming out. Hard or easy to pull and the tension isn't correct. If you use the "foam type" weather stripping look at the manufactures spec for how much "crush" is required. Too much, too little or uneven still apply.

When closed, the window must be at or very slightly below the body. If placement isn't correct, it will have wind noise or water leaking while driving in the rain.
There are seals that go around the bolts. Most of the bolts through the glass are shouldered to stop the nut from crushing the seal.
If you make the hinge and latch mount permanently to the window, you remove this problem. Make sure the bolts in the window are not too tight or it will damage the window over time. Using a sleeve the same thickness as the window works well here.
If you haven't done it already, go look at various manufacture pop out or top hinge type windows. You will notice a common weatherstrip design. You can get these styles from different vendors easily.

Solid mount windows.
I wouldn't worry about someone closing the door and having the window pop out. Vehicles are not designed to be air tight and most of the pressure will go out the venting. If this did happen you did something wrong in the mounting.
You will have to make sure the window thickness matches the weather strip. Going with the same thickness poly as was the glass will fix this. Otherwise your gluing the window in.

This project has been on my bucket list for quite some time. I'm still torn between pop out for access or just solid mount. I don't use those windows currently and could go either way.

 

[testler]

I worked for GM for almost 4 decades and dealt with a ton of "hatch" type windows (top hinge) and "pop out" (side hinge) as well as all kinds of window sealing issues with frame-less windows. Here's a few things that may help you if you don't already know them. I'm going to assume your not framing the window and the mounting pieces (hinge, latch) go through the window.

Almost all of the problems I saw were sealing. Too much, too little or uneven tension on the weather strip leads to leaking (air or water). Hinge and latch placement is critical.
A common technique used for checking weather strip tension is the "dollar bill test". Close the window on a dollar bill and when you pull it, it drags slightly coming out. Hard or easy to pull and the tension isn't correct. If you use the "foam type" weather stripping look at the manufactures spec for how much "crush" is required. Too much, too little or uneven still apply.

When closed, the window must be at or very slightly below the body. If placement isn't correct, it will have wind noise or water leaking while driving in the rain.
There are seals that go around the bolts. Most of the bolts through the glass are shouldered to stop the nut from crushing the seal.
If you make the hinge and latch mount permanently to the window, you remove this problem. Make sure the bolts in the window are not too tight or it will damage the window over time. Using a sleeve the same thickness as the window works well here.
If you haven't done it already, go look at various manufacture pop out or top hinge type windows. You will notice a common weatherstrip design. You can get these styles from different vendors easily.

Solid mount windows.
I wouldn't worry about someone closing the door and having the window pop out. Vehicles are not designed to be air tight and most of the pressure will go out the venting. If this did happen you did something wrong in the mounting.
You will have to make sure the window thickness matches the weather strip. Going with the same thickness poly as was the glass will fix this. Otherwise your gluing the window in.

This project has been on my bucket list for quite some time. I'm still torn between pop out for access or just solid mount. I don't use those windows currently and could go either way.

Really appreciate all the great info. Some of that was on my radar and some not so much. Tension is definitely something that I've been worried about. I'm currently getting some of the parts made and I think it's going to have to be a bit of a trial and error process. I've honed into two different types of polycarbonate that could work and now I'm just trying to figure out what thickness to go with. This kind of goes back to the tension question. Thinner will be more flexible while thicker will be less. We'll see what happens. Just waiting on some sample pieces right now...

 

[smritte]

I don't see the thickness being an issue unless you go real thin. The tension is set by the latch and hinges. Think of it as "crush". Most of the latches can be bought as adjustable and hinges can be made to. I've had to make "over center" latches (pop out glass) adjustable by shimming.

 

[testler]

I don't see the thickness being an issue unless you go real thin. The tension is set by the latch and hinges. Think of it as "crush". Most of the latches can be bought as adjustable and hinges can be made to. I've had to make "over center" latches (pop out glass) adjustable by shimming.

Ok. Good to know. I was looking at 1/8th and 3/16 thick. It’s hard to tell from the sample squares how flexible it would be. I was more worried about it flexing while tensioned down causing the weather stripping to rotate. I think it’d be very minute so maybe not an issue.

 

[smritte]

I was looking at 1/8th and 3/16 thick.

I was thinking 3/16-1/4 but I have never worked with poly.

 

[testler]

I was thinking 3/16-1/4 but I have never worked with poly.

I think 3/16 will be best as far as finding gaskets and such. 1/4 starts to mess with clarity and such.