Anyone recognize this Blue 1971, and/or it's mods? (1 Viewer)

pb4ugo

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Remove the spacers and see if the wheel fits. How much distance do you have between the rim and the tre? I have some old school 15x10 wheels similar to yours and run 1/4" spacers to clear the tre. I did install longer wheel studs to get more thread contact.
 

GTODDC5

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I can't check anything until I get it back from the shop. I dropped it off to have the clutch adjusted, and look into a couple things.
 

jim land

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I got a bj42 in 2015 from an old friend , it was similar to your 40 , metalic blue, chrome, 15x8 alu wheels ( 3.25" no spacer).
Not clean like your , the top and doors need some rust repair, so i change the color and "unpimp" it since , also change the wheels

take your time to make it look the way you like , Mud is full of good info , and most important , drive it :steer:

20150702_175338.jpg


P1040510.JPG
 

GTODDC5

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I got a bj42 in 2015 from an old friend , it was similar to your 40 , metalic blue, chrome, 15x8 alu wheels ( 3.25" no spacer).
Not clean like your , the top and doors need some rust repair, so i change the color and "unpimp" it since , also change the wheels

take your time to make it look the way you like , Mud is full of good info , and most important , drive it :steer:

View attachment 2185317

View attachment 2185320
Thanks for the words of encouragement, Mud has been a great resource so far. I ordered a bunch of parts from SOR last night. Found out that all the internal parts for my emergency/parking brake are MISSING, so I ordered everything I could. Also ordered a full set of rear brake wheel cylinders. The fun has begun, but I want to drive! Patience . . .
 

GTODDC5

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It just really seems like with the mods and parts identified so far, it's highly unlikely that someone could have done it (or had it done) without an online community like this one. Are you guys members of other popular forums that support the FJ40? I'd really like to find the PO and see if he's got documentation.
 
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Does your rig have power steering? I see it still has a drag link. That is one thing to consider in wheels and tire selection.

FYI that is a stock 71 booster.
Didnt realize they had boosters in 71. Thought that came later, guess I just missed it with my 1970 :meh:
 

GTODDC5

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Does your rig have power steering? I see it still has a drag link. That is one thing to consider in wheels and tire selection.


Didnt realize they had boosters in 71. Thought that came later, guess I just missed it with my 1970 :meh:
No power steering, the giant steering wheel is a necessity!

I've been crunching numbers on tire/wheel combos, and have some good estimates.
The set up it came with comes in around 366 lbs. total, for all four corners.
Running the BFG KO2 32x11.5 on the 15x8 comes in 100 lbs. less, total.
Running people-recommended 33x10.5 on stock 15x5.5 comes in around 376 lbs. total

However, I'm sure turning the wheel is much easier with a skinnier setup.
 
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jbee

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Engine looks stock. Might be the stock carb too Which is good because you can use a factory service manual to work on it. Check the awesome carb photo library on specter off road.
1971 would’ve had a two-piece bench front seat or if it was from 9/71 to 9/72 would have a five piece front bench seat With some Emissions line with some emissions/vapor/fuel return lines in the center of the seat back.
The parking brake can be tough in these, you need to remove the rear driveshaft to be able to dissemble and inspect it properly (but that’s not hard) probably was just never used so it got neglected.
 

G-Cat

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You won’t find correct jump seats at a better price
 

GTODDC5

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Remove the spacers and see if the wheel fits. How much distance do you have between the rim and the tre? I have some old school 15x10 wheels similar to yours and run 1/4" spacers to clear the tre. I did install longer wheel studs to get more thread contact.
OK, so I removed the 1 1/2" spacers. The wheels are American Racing AR172 Baja w/ 3.75" backspacing. The inside lip misses the tie rod ends, however the wheel weights do rub ever so slightly slightly on the rubber boots. That's no good. Also, at full right steering the 12.50" wide tires would definitely hit the drag link under articulation. Also not good.

So I decided to keep the wheels I have, and mount Toyo Open Country 33x10.50R15 on them - using inside barrel weights. This way, nothing will interfere with tie rods, and the narrower tire will clear the drag link. Should have them mounted next week. These tires will also be good should I decide to get Toyota stock 15x5.5 wheels, in the future.
 

GTODDC5

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So last weekend I brought the rig back from the mechanic. He has not looked at the clutch yet, which I hoped he would start with. They did inspect the rear brakes, and found a leaking wheel cylinder. Also, one of the bottom brake linings fell on to the ground. That would explain the hard pull to the right, when brakes were applied :doh: They also peaked at the emergency/parking brake, and found it was void of parts. Told me they can't get wheel cylinders, but can rebuild them, and had no idea what to do with the parking brake.

That's pretty much when I decided I'd get the rig back. I ordered a bunch of parts, and they should start arriving today and tomorrow. I was originally hoping this thing could be sorted out while I was at work during the week so I could be driving by the weekend, but F that. If I have to do their job and order parts, I may as well take ownership of it and perform the work over the weekend. So hopefully this weekend I'll have the rear brakes replaced, and start figuring out the puzzle that is my empty parking brake.
 

firefighterjed

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So last weekend I brought the rig back from the mechanic. He has not looked at the clutch yet, which I hoped he would start with. They did inspect the rear brakes, and found a leaking wheel cylinder. Also, one of the bottom brake linings fell on to the ground. That would explain the hard pull to the right, when brakes were applied :doh: They also peaked at the emergency/parking brake, and found it was void of parts. Told me they can't get wheel cylinders, but can rebuild them, and had no idea what to do with the parking brake.

That's pretty much when I decided I'd get the rig back. I ordered a bunch of parts, and they should start arriving today and tomorrow. I was originally hoping this thing could be sorted out while I was at work during the week so I could be driving by the weekend, but F that. If I have to do their job and order parts, I may as well take ownership of it and perform the work over the weekend. So hopefully this weekend I'll have the rear brakes replaced, and start figuring out the puzzle that is my empty parking brake.
Download a copy of the factory service manual. They're all on here somewhere in digital form. I'd send it to you, but mine is for 75-newer so it would be of limited help. It will show how the e=brake is assembled and has all the torque specs and such that you'll be glad to have as you work on it. Have fun!
 

FJBen

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Nice, time to get the hands dirty and start working on it. Keep up the pictures!
 

GTODDC5

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Download a copy of the factory service manual. They're all on here somewhere in digital form. I'd send it to you, but mine is for 75-newer so it would be of limited help. It will show how the e=brake is assembled and has all the torque specs and such that you'll be glad to have as you work on it. Have fun!
Thanks, I already found it and downloaded it thanks to Troll - so I went Silver as a thank you.
 

GTODDC5

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Nice, time to get the hands dirty and start working on it. Keep up the pictures!
Plenty of grime yesterday! The rear brakes were quite grungy (Right Rear):

IMG_20200125_140955.jpg


IMG_20200125_141024.jpg


The grunge was behind everything as well.
This is after some Simple Green and a brush, then brake clean (Left Rear):

IMG_20200126_130231.jpg


No pics, but a few coats of Loctite Extend rust neutralizer followed. The wheel cylinder bolts and lock washers got a nice WD-40 Rust Remover Soak for a couple hours, then Rustoleum paint. When dry, I ran each bolt through the proper die to clean the threads up. I soaked the springs too, and they are in near perfect condition.

New wheel cylinders, shoes and drums (Left Rear):

IMG_20200126_161636.jpg


New drums came painted, but I hit them with some high temp paint anyhoo:

IMG_20200126_162518.jpg


So I completed Left Rear, but I had to to stop due to other plans - so still need to finish up Right Rear and then adjust both, bleed, check for leaks, etc. Then move on to the emergency/parking brake. Tires were ordered last Thursday, and should arrive at my favorite tire shop any day now.
 
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Just saw this thread.

Good pix of the brakes. I had a lining fall off my rear brakes the last time I pulled the drum - and I last did the brakes in the 1990s. I guess nothing is forever. I think glued-on linings are lame for this reason, but no one seems to rivet them anymore.

I think you have a very solid start to a truck you can get closer back to stock. I noticed rust bleeding from under the chrome bezel, which (after you paint it) should be mounted on rubber standoffs (you can purchase them or use 1/2" pieces of 3/8" fuel line). These spacers will prevent the bezel from rubbing the paint off the front panel. The factory provided thick rubber grommets which are still available in the aftermarket, or possibly at the dealer.

If you decide to dechrome, you can remove the chrome bits, have them sandblasted, and then have a paint shop mix up a quart of custom paint for you that matches. You can then prime and spray those bits and re-use them, unless you find a chrome-nut who wants chromed things. For small things, a PreVal sprayer can work pretty well, although you then have to clearcoat after the color coat.

And whatever else you do, rustproof the bottom of that truck with a grease product (not tar) and don't drive it in salty blizzards ;)
 

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