fyton2v
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Preferably in SoCal? Trying to find someone with the right parts and an OEM-like cap. No one in my area seems to do it.
Thanks.
Thanks.
Anyone know a locksmith that can re-key door lock cylinder?
- Thread starter fyton2v
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Does it need
1. the key changed?
Or would it be acceptable to
2. unstick the cylinder and cut a new key for the lock?
My local locksmith has done option 2 for many early door & ignition on Cruisers.
1. the key changed?
Or would it be acceptable to
2. unstick the cylinder and cut a new key for the lock?
My local locksmith has done option 2 for many early door & ignition on Cruisers.
I just had 2 door locks and the gas door lock rekeyed to match my ignition key. Local locksmith in Dalton, Georgia. I did take them 2 extra door locks that they used for parts. They needed "wafers" that were the proper size.
fyton2v
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I'm trying to do what gcrump is doing. When I bought my 40, the driver's door lock was DOA. I took it apart and the the wafers/pins inside the lock were wrecked. I have a different lock that I'm hoping can be pinned out to match the key for my other locks. And then I'm REALLY hoping that the locksmith can put the cap back on in a way that looks like it wasn't chewed on.
And I don't have a bunch of extra pins.
And I don't have a bunch of extra pins.
I have an extra lock I'd send you for the cost of shipping - can be used for parts. If you know the locks were taken apart & put back together, then you can see the signs of it, otherwise it would be hard to notice. I would say it's just a minor imperfection in the outer trim rings. Depends on the locksmith though.
Any locksmith shop should do it. I don't know any in California, unfortunately. You could send them to me if you can't find something. I rekey a lot of cars and trucks, but have only worked on my 40.
Soak in PB blaster. The wafers always freeze up.
I usually file or brush the wafers a bit thinner before I put them back in the cylinder.
Do not use graphite powder. White lithium grease is ideal, or any synthetic if you need. Silicone works well in a pinch.
I usually file or brush the wafers a bit thinner before I put them back in the cylinder.
Do not use graphite powder. White lithium grease is ideal, or any synthetic if you need. Silicone works well in a pinch.
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Why not graphite lube? That's what is sold as lock-lube.
Now I'm worried I've been doing it wrong.
Now I'm worried I've been doing it wrong.
Graphite was once a fantastic product for lubrication. Schlage locks still come with graphite powder from the factory. The problem is that people always use too much. The graphite ends up going into the springs, and eventually compacts down, making the wafer stick. Which makes people put more graphite in. Compounding the problem. A bit in moderation is fine. It has nowhere to go, so you'll need to pull it all apart when you need to clean.
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Graphite is old school, tends to pack and doesn't do any cleaning. We have had great results from cleaning locks in the ultrasonic cleaner. Lately this is the preferred lube: Amazon.com: B'laster - 16-TDL - The Dry Lube - 9.3-Ounces: Automotive Goes in wet, so penetrates, then drys.
4Cruisers
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I wonder if a product like Slip-Plate or EZ-Slide would work well in this application? They're aerosol graphite paints that dry but leave the surface slippery.
Well done.
Awesome!!!!! This project will be on my hit list in the future..........................
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Good work!
FWIW, that later model door lock is easy for a competent lock shop. It's of conventional construction and was used by Toyota for 30+ years. For some reason I thought you were dealing with a 74-earlier door lock cylinder, which is weird/obsolete nowadays.
FWIW, that later model door lock is easy for a competent lock shop. It's of conventional construction and was used by Toyota for 30+ years. For some reason I thought you were dealing with a 74-earlier door lock cylinder, which is weird/obsolete nowadays.
If you have locks that require different keys, I had success making multiple locks match an existing key on an MGB.
Remove the cylinder from the lock.
Insert the key you plan on using so the blades in the cylinder are shoved to the positions for that key.
File the fins flush with the round shape of the cylinder.
Re-assemble the cylinder in the lock.
As I remember it the fins were brass and fairly easy to shape with a flat file.
Remove the cylinder from the lock.
Insert the key you plan on using so the blades in the cylinder are shoved to the positions for that key.
File the fins flush with the round shape of the cylinder.
Re-assemble the cylinder in the lock.
As I remember it the fins were brass and fairly easy to shape with a flat file.
