Anyone Just Brakes? Why can't I stop?! (1 Viewer)

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Here's the situation on my 88 FJ62: Just finished rear brake job...new wheel cylinders, and brake shoes. Bled all four wheels anyways, proportioning valve, and master cylinder...Still no better. Now my disc brakes on the front need replaced, but they're not that shot. Thought the brake booster was gone, but tested it...seems working fine. Tested the "air tightness" also, tested fine. What's next? I just replaced my master cylinder 6 months ago cuz the stock one finally gave out. And yes, I actually drove reverse for about 100 yards to ensure the rear adjusted fine. I can't stop effectively if I travel over 10MPH. I aint no brake expert, so does anyone know? Do i just keep bleeding the brakes? How much is enough?
Thanks, cruiser rearing out of control into curbs.
 
Brakes?

Backing up to adjust your rear brakes isn't the fool proof method you may think it is. You really need to get the rear end on jack stands and physically adjust the "Star" gear inside the drum you should adjust it so that you have a tad bit of friction on the drum. Refer to your FSM (Factory Service Manual) if you have one. If you don't have one, get one nad don't really bother with a Chilton Manual. Good luck to Ya.
 
For 60 series rear brakes, its the parking brake operation that adjusts the shoe clearance. Watch it turn the star wheel when you have the drum off. I think it was Ford that adjusted when the brakes were applied in reverse.
 
correct, cruiser rear drums DO NOT adjust by backing up and braking like most american cars, they use the parking brake.
 
I'm not sure about the right form to adjust the rear drums .. in my case, I lift up one tire and adjust it in the brake cilinder ( dent adjuster ) until this tire are tied. is right . ?
 
If it works then it must be a correct way to go. I'm no expert though.

That's wierd about not being able to stop. If the rears weren't working, then the fronts should still stop the truck. Are you sure that you adjusted the proportioning valve correctly? Try biasing it towards the front.

Are you sure that you bled your system properly? Did you start from the passenger's rear tire?


:beer:
 
If the rears are too far from the drum, you'll run out of pedal stroke before the fronts develop pressure. I would have thought it was a split system for saftey, but it appears not to be.
 
The parking brake action CAN adjust the brakes, but it is not THE way to do it.

If you install new brakes you really do need to adjust with the start like Ben Garcia said for the first time, then just get into habit of pulling the parking brake every time you park the truck.
 
Ditto the info on how the automatic adjusters work on the rear. But to be sure, pull a drum & have someone jerk on the handbrake. If it doesn't move, your bellcranks are frozen. I've fixed them on both my 60s. take the brackets & cranks out, knock the pin out & pound the crank out. I filed my brackets out & sanded the cranks down & lubed with heavy synthetic grease. Now they work great.

To adjust the rears for the first time you have them back together, run the star wheel as far as you can after it stops the drum, then back it off (with the wheel on) until you barely hear a "shhh" once or twice a revolution. That's how the real oldies adjusted drum brakes before automatic adjusters.
 
had the same problem when i swapped my rear cylinders and shoes. pulled out of the driveway and put the brake pedal to the floor, barely got it stopped before hitting the curb. i had adjusted the star as per FSM, so i figured i hadn't bled the lines right/enough. being lazy and nearly out of beer i didn't feel like bleeding the lines again, so, remembering the rears are adjusted using the parking brake, i sat in the truck and engaged and disengaged the parking brake for about 30 second. tried it again and she stopped on a dime!!! (o.k., it was closer to $1.50, but back to an acceptable level considering it is a 60).
 

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