Anyone here build a 62 Wayne Tangen headlight harness? Having some troubles. (1 Viewer)

[YooperCruiser]

I've double checked everything and believe it's all correct. When hooked up and and using the left side outer headlight for signal first it would blow the left headlight fuse. I changed the pin out in the signal plug and everything lights up but it's backwards. With the switch on low beams all 4 lights are one and when switched to highs only the 2 high beams(the inner lights) light up. My outer lights are Hella's with H4 60/65 watt bulbs, the inners are stock. I'm missing something here and my brain is starting to fry trying to solve it. For as much time as I put into this so far I regret not just buying a pre-made harness.

In my searching the forum I saw it mentioned a few times that there was something wrong with this diagram but never found a post that explained what it was. Does anyone know what that might be? Or have any insight on why my harness is not working? I suspect it's in the signal pickup and possibly also the pin out to the new H4's.

This is the diagram I followed from the Faq page https://www.ih8mud.com/tech/headlightharness/diagram.pdf

All 4 lights on with switch on low beams.

2 inner lights on and outers off with switch on high beams.

 

[Seth S]

Make sure your 3 way plugs are configured properly:

This is the back view...not the front view. Your COM and your LO will be switched but your HI wont if you read this as from the front.

The headlight indicator circuit doesn't look correct to me. It looks like if the indicator is wired the way its shown here it will come on regardless of whether HI or LOW beams are on. I think the correction would be to route the high beam indicator wire through the "High connection" on the left...that way it only gets a ground and energizes when the HI is turned on.

 

[Seth S]

Looks like you have Red = LO. Blue = HI and Black = COM at least in your headlight connectors. I can’t tell anything on your relays other than red power because all the other wires look black.

 

[Seth S]

Do you have a fuse block somewhere?

 

[YooperCruiser]

Looks like you have Red = LO. Blue = HI and Black = COM at least in your headlight connectors. I can’t tell anything on your relays other than red power because all the other wires look black.

Yes for the headlight connectors, I didn't color code anything on the relays just ran the correct circuits to the correct pins.

For fuses I'm using two 30 amp circuit breakers.

And I understand the view of the high, low, common pins on the diagram, but in that configuration it will blow the left headlight fuse in the vehicle(iirc), even with no lights attached to the harness. I'll have to take it out this weekend and triple check everything. I understand relay circuits pretty good but this neutral switching is new to me and is messing with my head. Btw I appreciate your input.

 

[Seth S]

In the fj60/62 the COM is 12v and ground is switched. In most modern and other cars the COM is ground and power is switched. It wreaks havoc with LED conversions and makes it tricky to figure things out when you have to really get into it

 

[Seth S]

I think I would take my voltmeter and go check the toyota headlight plugs to verify the location of 12v (com) and then verify continuity for low or high beam and see if they align with the plug layout in that wiring diagram. I can't remember the config off the top of my head.

 

[YooperCruiser]

I think I would take my voltmeter and go check the toyota headlight plugs to verify the location of 12v (com) and then verify continuity for low or high beam and see if they align with the plug layout in that wiring diagram. I can't remember the config off the top of my head.

Yeah good plan. I think in my last attempt I had com right but high and low reversed, cause everything worked only backwards.

 

[Lead Head]

Make sure your 3 way plugs are configured properly:

View attachment 2798932 This is the back view...not the front view. Your COM and your LO will be switched but your HI wont if you read this as from the front.

View attachment 2798931

The headlight indicator circuit doesn't look correct to me. It looks like if the indicator is wired the way its shown here it will come on regardless of whether HI or LOW beams are on. I think the correction would be to route the high beam indicator wire through the "High connection" on the left...that way it only gets a ground and energizes when the HI is turned on.

The trick here is the resistor. When the switch is turned into the "Low Beam" it shorts that wire to ground, which will cause the hi-beam indicator to turn off. The resistor and diode limits the current. When the headlight switch is turned to high-beam, current flow through the resistor into the high-beam indicator.

Normally the way it works, is when you switch the headlights to High-Beam, a little bit of power leaks backwards through the low-beam filament inside the bulb, which then causes the high-beam indicator to turn on. I'm not sure why Toyota did it that way.

 

[Seth S]

The trick here is the resistor. When the switch is turned into the "Low Beam" it shorts that wire to ground, which will cause the hi-beam indicator to turn off. The resistor and diode limits the current. When the headlight switch is turned to high-beam, current flow through the resistor into the high-beam indicator.

Normally the way it works, is when you switch the headlights to High-Beam, a little bit of power leaks backwards through the low-beam filament inside the bulb, which then causes the high-beam indicator to turn on. I'm not sure why Toyota did it that way.

Thanks for the heads up. It’s a confusing circuit. I’ll have to look at it some more. I saw the diode and resistor but it looked like the indicator was energized and grounded all the time.

 

[Seth S]

The trick here is the resistor. When the switch is turned into the "Low Beam" it shorts that wire to ground, which will cause the hi-beam indicator to turn off. The resistor and diode limits the current. When the headlight switch is turned to high-beam, current flow through the resistor into the high-beam indicator.

Normally the way it works, is when you switch the headlights to High-Beam, a little bit of power leaks backwards through the low-beam filament inside the bulb, which then causes the high-beam indicator to turn on. I'm not sure why Toyota did it that way.

Ok, I'm looking at it again with a fresh set of eyes and my EE101 hat on and i see now that the high beam indicator light is in parallel with the path to ground through the low switch. So when on low beam the voltage stays the same but the current is halved. the diode and resistor eat up enough current on the indicator leg to prevent the bulb from lighting.

 

[YooperCruiser]

I pulled the harness out this afternoon and went through it pin by pin and found I had 30 and 87a backwards on relay 1. swapped it around hooked it back up and everything's working perfect. I think this is going to be a big improvement.

And I got to work on this first gen 4runner this morning at my shop.

 

[Gianni]

@YooperCruiser, glad it worked out. I was going to buy a harness but will probably go this route (You learn a lot more about how your truck operates).

So, the schematic is correct ?

 

[belouder]

I need to do this!! Are there any other resources along with the schematic such as part numbers and such? What bulbs did you end up using?

And just so I understand how these wiring harness' interface: Does the harness use the OEM bulb plug as the "control" side of the relays that are direct wired from battery to bulbs? Does this mean there is no fuse on the new bulb power side?

BK

 

[Seth S]

I need to do this!! Are there any other resources along with the schematic such as part numbers and such? What bulbs did you end up using?

And just so I understand how these wiring harness' interface: Does the harness use the OEM bulb plug as the "control" side of the relays that are direct wired from battery to bulbs? Does this mean there is no fuse on the new bulb power side?

BK

Red circles show fuses. Looks like stock wiring is used to trigger inputs for new harness....so all stock fuses stay in place. I can't tell how the H1's are fused...their relay is fused and that might be enough.

 

[Seth S]

I'm hoping to have my new workshop framed this fall and finally have some space to get in and work on projects. Wiring harnesses are on the list of things to play with.