and that is what made me stop. by time i did head work, cams, got a piggyback and added a turbo... i was now into LS money. my 5.3 is waiting on my 1FZ to die. so far it is still going strong with over 300K but one day it will need a new engine and i am going that route.
Anyone fitted modded cam shafts to get more pep from you 1fz (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter how900
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and that is what made me stop. by time i did head work, cams, got a piggyback and added a turbo... i was now into LS money. my 5.3 is waiting on my 1FZ to die. so far it is still going strong with over 300K but one day it will need a new engine and i am going that route.
Yup, If I knew what I know I would have taken my losses much earlier in the game. My 1200$ truck is now about 8000$ and I havent driven it in 14 months.
I dont think I have posted pics before in this website so I will try, Sorry to hijack I hope this can help also. I will be doing the port and valves before a cam so we will have a different look at a cheaper mechanical power adder.
Well that is a good video those figures are not applicable to the US 80 series head. The 105 used what is basically a generation 2 1FZFE. Look at the combustion chambers in the head. 105 series are perfectly round. The pistons are a different shape, the valves are a different angle and it is distributorless.
If you took an 80 head and did what has been done on a 105 head, I personally believe you would see even more power gains than the video, but it would be more work. By removing the quench areas in the combustion chamber you would also have to go with higher compression Pistons as so much material is removed.
I am currently doing basically this on my new head, I should have some stock valves from a member on here so I can flow bench my before and after numbers but I will be going +3mm intake, +1mm exhaust and increasing valve lift from 7.xxmm to 10.xxmm
If you took an 80 head and did what has been done on a 105 head, I personally believe you would see even more power gains than the video, but it would be more work. By removing the quench areas in the combustion chamber you would also have to go with higher compression Pistons as so much material is removed.
I am currently doing basically this on my new head, I should have some stock valves from a member on here so I can flow bench my before and after numbers but I will be going +3mm intake, +1mm exhaust and increasing valve lift from 7.xxmm to 10.xxmm
That is why I went the way I did. I went with standard pistons +1mm. To get higher comp pistons I would have had to gone higher dollar. I am not that serious about this truck. I spent some time on the intake reshaping, smoothed the bowls, smoothed the exhaust with minimal shape work. I do however have a flange that was made when yours (scottryana) was made, to make into a manifold if I get there. I need to finish school and make some money before I start the next phase.
You and me both! School is almost as much a time and money black hole as Land Cruisers!
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I think as I suspected the supercharger is the best option for me, i haul my 30ft boat on the beach and need I power right from the off, I very rarely take my truck over 3,000 rpm in normal driving, so will maybe get a little work done on the head when I take it off at some point, probably leave the standard cam and just polish up, clean and re seat everything. Just have to keep adding money to the pot for a while longer.
inkpot
SILVER Star
If you need power, then get it up around 4000+ rpm. Lots more power available than below 3000. The 1fz is pretty happy up to around 5000.
I will probably supercharge mine, but I will be going with a non trd charger. It will more than likely be a m122 of a newer Mustang. Much cheaper and more efficient than the trd charger.
SmokingRocks
hopelessly addicted to Cruisers
Yup, I dont understood the thought of never driving above x Rpms. It's not saving the engine any undue stress. If anything it lugging around more outside of its peak power band. I've run my 1fz at above 4500 for hours and it never complained.
Rivman1243
SILVER Star
How are you going to mount it and plumb it in?
SmokingRocks
hopelessly addicted to Cruisers
Either aluminum or carbon I haven't decided yet. Most likely a combination of both.
Lost Industries
Supporting Vendor
I know this thread is kinda old but I did the crower stage 1 cams 5 yrs ago when I bought my 80 from original owner with a blown head gasket. Bored 20 over and bought an oem rebuild kit. I spent about 40 hrs porting and polishing and opening up the runners to flow more around the valves. I did all this hoping to make the most of the new cams. I did stage 1 because no extra programming of the computer or anything was required. Not only did it take almost 4 months to get the corrects cams, 1st wrong base circle , then 1 good one and 1 broken, then another broken, and then the last one to make a pair the journal where the timing chain gear goes on was machined wrong. I have a machine shop, so I ended up machining the journal to the correct size. Honestly, total waste of money and time.
I have driven several other stock 80s and LXs and I notice zero difference in power. Forced induction is really the only way to go if you want to make power with this motor. Mine runs great but not for the extra money. It'll be for sale soon along with the trans as I'm going to swap an L33 5.3 into it this fall.
I have driven several other stock 80s and LXs and I notice zero difference in power. Forced induction is really the only way to go if you want to make power with this motor. Mine runs great but not for the extra money. It'll be for sale soon along with the trans as I'm going to swap an L33 5.3 into it this fall.
Appreciate your feedback. I was looking at throwing a bumpstick in, perhaps schneider. This is in conjunction with blower to help it. But your probably right with the LS. Just my ignorance of reliability and all gauges/AC fully working makes me shy away. Again thanks for taking the time to share your findings.
Turbo can be done for under $2500, ask me how I know.
