anyone familiar with the transfer case linkage? (1 Viewer)

[tshandonay]

Here's the story, can't shift to 4low....have pulled on that lever with everything I've got. Freed the shifter by removing the 4 bolts that attache it to the transmission housing. Was able to determine that the arm pivots and the pin on the front portion of the linkage right under the shifter pivots.

On the back side I can only feel where the linkage attaches to an arm and rotates front to back? thus shifting between 4h and 4l. I'm guessing this arm at the top of the tcase is what's not moving.....really hoping its external and not internal.

This rig is new to me in the past few months and I'm fairly certain the previous owners never used 4l based on the condition of the vehicle....amazingly clean and rust free despite being in the midwest where salt is used in massive quantities.

Any thoughts on next steps?

This is a 96 w/208k miles. Green. ;p

 

[tshandonay]

anybody? I know other have had this issue, but the resolution was in the shifter being seized.

 

[JETTIX2]

Sounds like the internals are FUBAR, probably looking at a new T-case and about $3600 out of pocket to fix it. You might as well take it to Frei Chevrolet and have them look at it. LOL, just kidding, Tim, hope you get some answers here on the board Sorry, I couldn't resist messing with ya

 

[tshandonay]

The internals may be FUBAR after the tow strap is dropped over the shifter and out the back and around the big tree in my front yard.

 

[tshandonay]

Or I can downgrade to 28" tires....poor mans regearing.

 

[CJF]

The internals may be FUBAR after the tow strap is dropped over the shifter and out the back and around the big tree in my front yard.

I like it.

 

[JETTIX2]

You could run the tires off the trike on it

 

[tshandonay]

I'll be back at it tonight just pounding a random parts with a hammer until it works.

 

[CycloSteve]

If the arm under the rig is detached from the shifter (little cotter-pin), you should be able to manually push the rod from H into N then L. Having just installed my T-Case last week, I was able to shift using just the rod when under the truck. Once disconnected, see if the in-truck shifter moves freely, and try to move the rod by hand; this takes a little force, but definitely not something you want to hammer on. If the rod does not move in a front-rearward motion, then the internals have an issue. Again, I would not force anything, as you are more likely to eff things up that much more.



Steve

 

[tshandonay]

Thanks for the input Steve. Things aren't looking good then because I wasn't able to move the rod by hand last night. Since I can't visubly see what the rod attaches to I don't know if there are any other variables. Do you think there is any chance there is anything on the other side of the rod seized?

 

[Tapage]

I would start here ..

Stiff Transfer Case Lever

here is a pretty good pic

to see what's it's behind the lever on top of your t-case

took it from here ...

Our new 80 & 100-series Land Cruiser Low Range Gear Kit Install

 

[tshandonay]

Thanks for the picture!

I've done a LOT of reading and it doesn't seem that the internal failures of the t-case are common at all....especially for a rig that hasn't been driven hard. Although 16 years without engaging low could be a problem in itself.

Anyway....my question(assuming no internal issues) is whether or not that arm right above the red circle could be seized? This is what I've only been able to feel and not see until this picture. It seems from the picture that it could be susceptable to corrosion.

Really reaching for some hope here....

Thanks again for the picture....gives me a better idea what I'm dealing with before I tear it apart more.

 

[CJF]

Agree that t-case failures are very rare.

Might help to jack up a tire and have someone rock it back and forth (to give the driveshafts some play) while you're trying to move the lever.

Good luck and keep us posted.

 

[alia176]

I'm coming into this a little late but catch me up please. Did the OP (original poster) disconnect the shifter lever (in the cab) from the shifting linkage (on top of the Tcase) and try to shift the shift linkage from under the 80? Disconnecting the two parts is super easy and requires just a needle nose plier and work from under the 80.

 

[lacalvette]

Do you have a hi-low sensor like vacuum operated t-case on the 60?, if this one is positioned too far inside the case, it will not allow the rod to move to low speed.

 

[alia176]

The 80 series don't have any vac operated tcase shifters.

 

[tshandonay]

I was able to get this fixed last night. If you reference the picture above, the arm on the top of the transfer case above the circle was seized up. Corrosion I assume....I could only feel it. When laying perpendicular under the vehicle I could hold the disconnected linkage in the my hand and try to pull forward and feel that the only play was in the linkage at the other end of that arm with my left hand.

So against recommendation and my good judgement I used a hammer in ways I won't describe in detail. After getting it to move just a bit I bolted the shifter back to the transmission, reconnected the linkage and was able to slowly work it in and out of high and low with less and less resistance. Sprayed some additional penetrating oil and after a few minutes it was smooth as silk.

Feels like I have a useful 4wd now...and I can move onto some other projects and upgrades!

Thanks everyone for their input.

Tim

 

[CJF]

 

[tshandonay]

Well....not there 100% yet. Went for a short drive tonight. No CDL light on the dash while in low.

Will have to do some more reading, but I'm guessing a symptom again of PO never using low. Looks like there is a switch that is activated when in low that engages the CDL, turns ABS off??

Hope this fix is as satisfying as the last....and as cheap!