ányone done a HI-PO 13BT Build ??

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xtremitys

xtremitys

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Nov 17, 2006
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just moved to cairns , Qld
I will be building a 13BT within the next few months , plan to do a Hi perrmance Blueprinted version with custom Forged pistons with around 16:1 compression , total seal rings , cryo engine , etc . Possibly bore the block out for larger sleeves & pistons , etc. With the pupose of gaining more power thru forced induction , etc !

wondering if anyone has done similar & what you did you do ?? anyone have photos of their 13BT build even if it was stock ?? any info would be great !!!!!!
 
Well keep us informed.

I think stock comp ratio is 17:1 or higher....are you lowering it?

You might find the bottom end is tough enough and that a supercharger system might make it where you want it for power. The stock turbo is set pretty mild. You could boost it waay up and put on an intercooler.

Without doing anything to the bottom end you could really crank up this engine. They are mega strong to begine with.
 
i read in my manual that they are something like 17.6:1 stock , plan to lower it because then i can stuff more in there without the fear of damage & high EGT's , 16.5 :1 is pretty much the standard for Cummins, Detriot ,Cat , etc in their Hi Power turbo diesel engines , plus alot of Hi-peformance Turbo diesel cars that are coming out now are around that too .
 
xtremitys said:
I will be building a 13BT within the next few months , plan to do a Hi perrmance Blueprinted version with custom Forged pistons with around 16:1 compression , total seal rings , cryo engine , etc . Possibly bore the block out for larger sleeves & pistons , etc. With the pupose of gaining more power thru forced induction , etc !

wondering if anyone has done similar & what you did you do ?? anyone have photos of their 13BT build even if it was stock ?? any info would be great !!!!!!
Click to expand...

I guess you have to work with what youve got,but if your starting from scratch I would start with a 14B or 15B. They are already ahead in the performance stakes and the engines are reinforced versions of the smaller B series engines.

Keep us informed anyway;)
 
14bt & 15bt cost alot more to buy outright , rang a jap importer and they qouted me like 7 grand for a a good second hand 14BT ( they don't sell them as rebuilders ), 13BT's are everywhere and alot cheaper full stop .would rather build a Super tough 13BT than buy a Stock second hand 14BT at similar price anyday.
 
it won't happen for a few months as have to save my pennys , so to speak . plus will upgrade the other parts 1st ( gearbox & t/case , diffs , brakes , cooling ,LPG injection ,water/air intercooler ,etc ).

have researched a wee bit , off the top of my head at the moment i think i may get "Arias" to custom make the Forged pistons ( they seem really up with custom diesel peformance stuff )& ceramic coated , rings will be Total seal "gapless" , probably end up using the stock rods - resized -with new ARP bolts( love to get longer H or I beam custom Scat , Argo rods , budget won't allow it ) , the crank & block worked over precisely , want to get liners that are not finished and install them , bore & Platuaé hone , heads similar maybe bigger valve's & heavier springs, pocket ported & entire engine "Cryo"treated" , probably run it with a Garrett BB turbo ( second hand - but freshened ), etc I will be doing most of the work myself ,except the machining , treatments , etc

I will be searching and seeking info "left, right & centre " before i do this ! So eager to see photos of other peoples builds ???
 
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Well to cut cost, why not buy a direct injected 14B or 15B... naturally aspirated and design a supercharger.

The -T makes it a turbo, but by adding the "1"b-t in from is a direct injected engine. And I thought the 15B was just a direct injected naturally aspirated engine.... perfect to honk up in power.

by getting a 13b-t you are paying the premium for the turbo. Which you don't need the turbo. Cause you designing it all over again.

But you would need to lower the comp ratio with the n/a version.

Cheers.
 
Well i am getting this complete 13BT rebuilder ( minus the turbo & manifold ) for $500 , stock 13BT engine kit is around $1300 , machining about $1000 & assembly myself and thats a stock rebuild, but am doing a Hi-performance Quality & precise Blueprinted version , entirely because i want to as it will be a Awesome foundation for things to come .

I am not sure about the 14Bt or 15BT configrations.

But to be totally Honest i am not one for stock standard full stop , if i was -"i probably would'nt have any 4x4's , probably be a "Joe bloe" with a family station wagon or sedan , 2 kids , a dog , a cat & have a 9-5 job for the rest of my life , while being a couch potatoe and have my entire retirement already planned/organised along with the lawn bowls , Bingo and knitting jumpers & socks for the grand kids " - LOL ,

Nothing personal , but if anything i am the opposite .
 
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Probably sound like a dumbo , but not sure how to upload picture here . Maybe i will just get a another photobucket account purelly for my ongoing cruiser build showing different stages and type in the direct url address on here , bee good to keep records for myself eh !
 
Before you spend money on custom pistons check and see if they have a thicker head gasket. I know for the 2LT's they have different head gasket sizes, if you had to shave the head the different sizes are to keep the same compression ratio. You could do the opposite and if the head hasn't been shaved do some calculations and decide which gasket thickness (thicker) will drop your compression ratio down. If that doesn't get it low enough having the pistons machined or porting out the combustion chambers will do the job. It doesn't take much shaving, porting, or head gasket thickness to change the compression ratio half a point or so. The stock Toyota pistons are extremely tough and if you could lower your compression ratio other ways it would save a lot of money. Last time I checked it was $250 a piece for custom pistons 4 X 250 = $1,000:beer: that's alot of beer money.
 
not what i hear about stock pistons , Toyota stock pistons can only handle a little bit more pressure before they fail ( most break ring lands or crack which is common, have heard of a few 13Bt's with these happening ), like most cast pistons . "Hyper" pistons are stronger again , then you hit forged which are best for substantial power increases . if/when you blow a cast piston , you virtually have to rebuild the whole motor again , money down the drain .

I have already considered using a de-compression plate ( up to 2mm copper plate ) but only lowers it 1.5 points and still have the weak cast pistons . I kinda figured that Custom Forged pistons - , cryo treated , ceramic coated & rings will set me back close to 2 Grand , after all it they will be custom , not off the shelf , so they will have to design them especially and they will be a little different than stock items . some call it a waste of money , i call it insurance & i like a strong Foundation ( Being a chippy ) .
 
sure there are other pistons around that could work , but don't want to risk it . Forged pistons are unbeatable for strength , except some special steel pistons that cummins and the like make for hi-boost scenario's.
But then again , maybe i can just get the stock pistons Cryo treated & ceramic coated, that would save alot of money and would be fairly strong .
 
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Boost is different to internal compression , boost is measured externally in the intake manifold, but once its hits the cylinder and the intake valve is closed the pressures are different compared to stock compression and the compression i plan to run . have to investigate it more to see how i can change it on the go. i will run up to 20 pounds , probably 14-15 for street driving
 
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