Anyone Compared C vs E Rated Tires on their 200? (1 Viewer)

[Nothinghead]

I ran through a set of E rated KO2s on my GX and they felt great towing and very trucky unloaded. Then I went to C rated KO2s and the unloaded ride was marginally softer but towing was sketchy. These comparisons are based on the same pressures (32 psi unloaded; 50 psi towing).

 

[TeCKis300]

Interestingly, some of the tire sizes I've run, now only come in LT-F instead of LT-E!?

 

[Tex68w]

Yes they’ve started to offer F for the HD trucks.

 

[devilzdriver]

While there is a side-by-side difference in sidewall stiffness between a C or E-load in a given tire, from the driver's seat this difference will be very hard to detect, especially when compared to the difference in minimum pressure required between your stock P-metric and any LT-metric tire. That and increased mass is where the bulk of the ride quality hit come from.

Which means it's up to you. If you are going to an LT tire, you could go C to claw back a negligible amount of ride quality, or go E for the (marginally) increased toughness knowing it doesn't add a whole lot to the ride quality hit.

For some people, there are other things to consider.

The tires I run were available in both (and P), and I went C, knowing I rarely tow and spend more time on the road getting to the trail than actually on it. For the record from my standpoint the marginally more flexible sidewalls of C translated to better fuel economy and given my roadtrip style.. that was the nail in the coffin for E-load tires in my case. It may be hard to detect the difference in fuel efficiency but over the lifespan of the tires, given no clear benefit to E for me.. C-load it is.

Bloc,

What kind of MPG are you getting w/ C rated? I noticed almost no difference between MPG's when swapping LT's on my 80 series. I did see a significant drop with my 200. It was getting 17~ and now 14.7 is pretty consistent granted i did go up a size in sidewall but overall that was a bummer. Though MPG is not a huge deal to me, it would be nice to get another few miles out of a tank. You've given me things to consider when I get my next set of tires for my truck as well as my 200.

 

[bloc]

Bloc,

What kind of MPG are you getting w/ C rated? I noticed almost no difference between MPG's when swapping LT's on my 80 series. I did see a significant drop with my 200. It was getting 17~ and now 14.7 is pretty consistent granted i did go up a size in sidewall but overall that was a bummer. Though MPG is not a huge deal to me, it would be nice to get another few miles out of a tank. You've given me things to consider when I get my next set of tires for my truck as well as my 200.

I manage about 15.5 over the road, usually cruising 73-74., with a pretty mild build. I believe my biggest detractors are the front lift being a bit high, and the LT tires. Otherwise no steel front bumper, no stuff all over my roof.

To be clear I view the mileage difference between E and C as very small, but again when weighing that impact over the life of the tires against the negligible benefit to me of the heavier duty tires.. C it is.

 

[TeCKis300]

I don't see load E vs C as a significant variable to MPG. C rated tires can often weigh the same or more than E. E is more about the internal structure of of the belts to contain and support more air pressures. Sometimes that's results in a stiffer sidewall. Stiffer generally doesn't mean more rolling resistance.

To the point of rolling resistance, the more major variables are tire design. Passenger car variants may have a slight advantage for the same tire model as they typically have lugs that aren't as deep/aggressive. LT-C and LT-E of usually similar in depth. Floatation variants may have even more depth and more rolling resistance to a degree. If efficiency is a goal, I would look towards AT tires that call it out as a performance goal.

 

[bloc]

I didn’t stress “marginal” difference in mileage enough. I doubt I could even measure it day to day. However when a set of tires lasts 50k miles very small differences can add up.

P tires have less tough sidewalls but for the same reason get the great mileage they do by being minimal on the structure of the tire, and the immediate drop in mileage we see switching to LT format, even with an appropriate increase in pressure, is a function of increased rolling resistance. That is caused by thicker/more solid structure and rubber.. extrapolate that out and it makes sense to run as light duty of a tire as will get the job done.

 

[Reckless]

I recently increased my psi to 54-58 unloaded (I have DT) and they feel much better than 38psi. I tried 46psi and liked it as well, less jarring on my spine. 46psi is better for traction, but going to 54 raised car height. I noticed it quite a bit from drivers seat.