I did my starter job a few weeks ago and changed only contacts, did not replace the plunger- Has anyone else done this this way? Wondering if Im going to be pulling this thing apart again soon
Anyone change just the starter contacts (no plunger)? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter gopriest31
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powderpig
SILVER Star
I have done this for years before the last couple of years. Found the plunger to be around 15 dollars and it was cheap insurance for longer life. But before that I would clean the copper and then file it flat for customers( i usually had one on hand that I would switch out). But the key for longer life is to make sure the copper is clean and somewhat flat. Other wise you will get the milage it will give you. Only you will find out in the future. later robbie
I did both. The contacts and plunger were in bad shape. I have heard many people mention just doing the contacts.
uzj100
uzj100
In all my starter rebuilds, I have never replaced the plunger. Always just the contacts(seems that the positive side of the contacts wear more than the other.....). Got me thinking about it now, next time I do one i'll look at the plunger.
I did just the contacts and it has been working well for a couple of years so far. Knock on wood! 
Knowing that the other parts can be replaced for $15 would cause me to swap them out as well while I was in there. It is pretty painful getting to the starter. Don't want to do it too often.
Pete
Knowing that the other parts can be replaced for $15 would cause me to swap them out as well while I was in there. It is pretty painful getting to the starter. Don't want to do it too often.Pete
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- #6
Thanks
Maybe I'll be OK foir a few years - thanks for the replies. Had I realized the plunger could be changed I would have done it also for the 15 buck upgrade.
Maybe I'll be OK foir a few years - thanks for the replies. Had I realized the plunger could be changed I would have done it also for the 15 buck upgrade.
The main reason why I bought the plunger was CDan recommended it. At least you're sure it'll work for as long as possible whereas if you just do the contacts, you're not exactly sure how long they last. The mini sites also say that only one of the two contacts gets badly worn, but they don't recommend replacing the plunger, either. OTOH, the starters on the 22r's are a lot easier to access than those on the 100's. Makes me wonder if the new 4 liter V6 1GR-FE has an easily accessible starter since that engine was designed from scratch for the hilux/prado platform.
I did mine almost 2 years ago now without doing the plunger and all is fine..knock on wood. Had I known about the plunger I would certainly have replaced it while I was in there.
Did contacts only. Wish I had done the plunger too.
I wasn't familiar enough with the guts of the starter to have known to purchase a replacement plunger when I bought the contacts. Once I had the starter out and opened, I realized the plunger is another wear item. When the solenoid smacks the plunger down onto the contacts, the copper ring at the end is what provides the connection between the two contacts, and allows the current to pass through to turn the starter motor.
The contacts were definitely gone, so I swapped them. But I figured there was plenty of copper ring on the end of the plunger. I lightly sanded the ring till it was clean, put it back in. I should have bench-tested the starter motor before reinstalling it.
Motor didn't start. Same old click noise. I bought a new starter and put that in. (Wifey didn't like how long it was taking me to get the "simple" job done.)
That said, seems plenty of other folks didn't have problems. I still haven't monkied around with the old starter to see if I can get it going.
I wasn't familiar enough with the guts of the starter to have known to purchase a replacement plunger when I bought the contacts. Once I had the starter out and opened, I realized the plunger is another wear item. When the solenoid smacks the plunger down onto the contacts, the copper ring at the end is what provides the connection between the two contacts, and allows the current to pass through to turn the starter motor.
The contacts were definitely gone, so I swapped them. But I figured there was plenty of copper ring on the end of the plunger. I lightly sanded the ring till it was clean, put it back in. I should have bench-tested the starter motor before reinstalling it.
Motor didn't start. Same old click noise. I bought a new starter and put that in. (Wifey didn't like how long it was taking me to get the "simple" job done.)
That said, seems plenty of other folks didn't have problems. I still haven't monkied around with the old starter to see if I can get it going.
I was having the starter problem, "click", not turning over until several attempts. Got my new (remanufactured) starter from Toyota. I was about to change it, now the damn thing works the first time, every time? WTF?
So should I just change it or wait until it starts happening again?
So should I just change it or wait until it starts happening again?
Change it
You never know where you will be when it decides to give you trouble..(for Example, Fleeing from a psycho killer.. stuck in the middle of the train tracks...you have only 10 seconds to move your truck before a piano falls out of a window..etc..)
You never know where you will be when it decides to give you trouble..(for Example, Fleeing from a psycho killer.. stuck in the middle of the train tracks...you have only 10 seconds to move your truck before a piano falls out of a window..etc..)
new to the forums and fairly new to the cruisers.. is this a do it yourselfer job? mine (99 w/80k) starting showing these starting symptons a few months back - very random. I have decent skills and dont mind tackling a problem.
My dealer said they have to pull the intake manifold off to just look at the starter.
Not looking forward to dropping another 500-900 on this thing since it has been nickle'in and dime'in us lately.
Pick up a chilton's and go for it?
Carson
My dealer said they have to pull the intake manifold off to just look at the starter.
Not looking forward to dropping another 500-900 on this thing since it has been nickle'in and dime'in us lately.
Pick up a chilton's and go for it?
Carson
carson7 said:
Yes. you have to pull off the intake. A good write up on this is in the FAQ.
Call Cdan for the parts and a FSM. I doubt Chiltons is going to be much help. In fact when I looked Chilton's did not even have a 100 manual. Max Ellerly is available though. A cheaper way might be to use Toyota's Tech Info site.
I just finished changing the starter. I replaced the whole thing with a remanufactured unit from Toyota.
I did the job myself and it took around 6 hours.
Thank you to rph74 (Chris), mabrodis, and dnp for all their information in the FAQ. It was very helpful
I did the job myself and it took around 6 hours.
Thank you to rph74 (Chris), mabrodis, and dnp for all their information in the FAQ. It was very helpful
Carson, definitely read up on the faq. It's better than a Chiltons! I started on this tonight as preventative maintenance and got up to (didn't pull the intake manifold yet) step 9 in about an hour. It would have gone even easier with another person. It goes easier than it looks. The hardest part is just reaching some of the nuts and bolts. I was a bit apprehensive at first but I feel better about it all now. Hope to get CDan to send me new contacts out tomorrow as a matter of fact.
Oh, and CDan is "cruiserdan" on the board. He's the best parts connection we have. I'll link to his contact thread in a sec.
Oh, and CDan is "cruiserdan" on the board. He's the best parts connection we have. I'll link to his contact thread in a sec.
Replaced contacts and plunger in 4.5 hours. I used the instructions on this site and they were great. Two must haves, long extension for rachet and magnetic bolt retreiver.
Thank you guys for the excellent instructions.
uzj100
Thank you guys for the excellent instructions.
uzj100
Tad,
Couple observations:
The tabs on the blue plastic electrical connections for the injectors are fragile
The bolts on the starter are easier to get to than I was led to believe. The drivers side one is harder but you can feel it back there. I was able to use a deep socket and small extension. Not sure why one guy had to go under the truck?
Removing the air box was real useful. I could put my left knee in the engine bay and lean over the block to reach the bolts. I grabbed a couple old pillows for cushioning
The manifold can be a bitch if you are doing this alone. I found coming up and out toward the radiator worked for me. When you put it back in, watch those blue connectors for the injectors. They like to get in the way.
I placed the nuts and bolts for the various items, i.e. "air cleaner" and "manifold" in marked baggies. I find this to be real easy to keep them separate. I didn't label any of the hoses, and I think I put them all back in the right place
I would have done the plugs and fuel filter too if I had more time while I was already doing stuff. I did replace the PCV valve though. That takes a whole minute.
-Bryan
Couple observations:
The tabs on the blue plastic electrical connections for the injectors are fragile
The bolts on the starter are easier to get to than I was led to believe. The drivers side one is harder but you can feel it back there. I was able to use a deep socket and small extension. Not sure why one guy had to go under the truck?
Removing the air box was real useful. I could put my left knee in the engine bay and lean over the block to reach the bolts. I grabbed a couple old pillows for cushioning
The manifold can be a bitch if you are doing this alone. I found coming up and out toward the radiator worked for me. When you put it back in, watch those blue connectors for the injectors. They like to get in the way.
I placed the nuts and bolts for the various items, i.e. "air cleaner" and "manifold" in marked baggies. I find this to be real easy to keep them separate. I didn't label any of the hoses, and I think I put them all back in the right place
I would have done the plugs and fuel filter too if I had more time while I was already doing stuff. I did replace the PCV valve though. That takes a whole minute.
-Bryan
Yeah, haven't disconnected the injector tabs yet. Do you just squeeze on the side and pull? I really don't want to cause damage when I'm really just doing the work proactively! About how much was a PCV valve ?
