Anyone build a tip over jig? (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Nov 8, 2017
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Location
Durango Colorado
I have searched and am not finding a thread that discusses this. I need one as I'm about
to iteratively flip over the tub for blasting, final sheet metal work, and painting. Its an odd
body configuration with no clear mounting points on front and back....thus I'm thinking of
building a wood frame under it that I then attach my front and rear plywood radius'. But
even that is weird because (at level) the rear is 8 inches higher than the front mounting holes
and I'm concerned about center of gravity.

Anyway...my first thought is two "rails" made out of 4x4s that are 9' long. I then attach
1 (2x6) at front mounting position.... 2 (2x6) at mid mounting position and then ??? at
rear to sit on the rails.. That seems screwed up as I'm dealing with too much lumber
in the rear for bolts to clear...so I think I'll skip the mid mount and just double up (2 * 2x6") on both
front and back tub mounting points (damn the mis-level).

Anyway ... ideas or previous experience is appreciated. I definitely want to keep it simple
but useable for quite a few tip overs.
 
Do a search of the work rotisserie. Wound give you an idea of what people have done. What I see is two end attached with a wide base. Made out of steel. I just recently moved a tub on to a rolling chassis to make it easier to move around. Use a two ton engine hoist with multiple 2" straps. Not sure I would attempt is using plywood.
 
yep...most of the web ones seem to have a car attach point near each tip end of the car body. Unfortunately the 40 has over 2' of cowl and flange sticking out
the front past the first body mount. Hence my point about having to add 4x4 "rails" under the body that extend out both ends past the rear and past the
cowl. Then the 40 has this odd elevation gain from front to back which makes attaching "rails" weird. Hence my point about how to level the thing out.

I think at this point I've seen most of the web rotisseries. Its this oddity with the 40 that makes me wonder. I have a semi-plan I think that I'll post to my
build thread. @Living in the Past thanks for input.
 
When I did my 71, the rotisserie I used was a 12 pack to entice 2 friends to come help me flip it over on the cart I made.

A buddy used 2 harbor freight engine stands and made a frame that went between them with standoffs to get to the body bolts at the right height. We could spin it fairly easily that way. The body sides would get really close to the ground. I think he extended the upright to five more clearance than a standard engine stand?
 
I always liked the idea from post #2 in here for a 1 man operation.
 
You can see the homebrew rotisserie I used for mine - box tubing forks were used to clear the cowl. The hardtop repair video also has some clearer views of it.

No particular plans, both the tee bar and the forks were adjustable to fit future projects. The tee bar had spaced holes for a pin as that dimension is less critical, and the forks had a sliding collar with a pinch bolt setup for finer adjustment to land on body mounts.

 
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It was fairly simple - six chunks of larger box to slip over standard 2” box, and the rest was just some junk I-beam and pipe from the scrap stash. The spreader bar was some sprinkler pipe pulled from a dumpster. 🙃

It definitely made the project simpler - would’ve been a pickle without it.
 
This was referenced in another thread as well - fairly similar style :
 
I think it was this one.


 
Found it, post 1001 or so. Similar style, arms had an additional slider it seems.

 
Dirt floor barn and gravel driveway, so no carts for me without giant tires. I used my tractor to lift it off the saw horses and set it on moving blankets. Then, solo yo solo, I flipped it over by hand.

Ashphalt undercoat.jpg
 
I'm not sure if its rotisserie envy or what....but I'm going to skip the tip-over jig (which is the plywood radius / horse style... that only tips in one direction)
and go to the rotisserie instead. It just looks far more useful. I have some old tube that will work like @zerotreedelta. Many thanks for pointing out that I should have been taking a different tack. I'll post some pictures in my build thread and cross-post here for future references.
 

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