Anybody have experiences with POR-15? (1 Viewer)

[Killdozer1776]

The truck has some bad body panels awaiting replacement and there will need to be lots of cutting and welding in the future.

As for the underbody, I had planned on eventually having it sandblasted and coating it with something like POR-15. But since it's paint over rust, and since I'm underneath the thing so much fixing stuff, I figured I could swab some paint over the rust as I remove parts to work on them. In sections as I go along.

Eventually the body would have to come off the frame to coat the top of the frame, replace body mounts and body rust, etc. But I figured going in sections as I'm replacing things anyway could be 2 birds with one stone.

Will this not work well? Should I be doing some higher level of surface prep instead of just degreasing/cleaning and then brushing and slathering it around literally all over the rust?

 

[gofast]

POR15 likes texture. Just remove the loose rust.

The paint also can trap water underneath it.

Your surface should not have sharp edges where panels join or from flaking rust. Water will get under the paint at these points and can accelerate your rot.

 

[ewillis]

POR 15 is a very thick/hard coating. It's way tougher than regular paint. I claimed hyperbole until I recently refinished my hubs with that stuff. It's expensive, but I will be painting various parts of my undercarriage with it as I'm impressed. Messy nasty stuff and the can sucks...

 

[gofast]

I puncture my POR 15 can lid with a nail. I pour a little into a spray bomb cap for use. I then seal the POR 15 can lid with a piece of masking tape after wiping it off. A can will stay fresh and good for a long time as very little of the product has been exposed to air.

 

[White Stripe]

If your trying to clean individual parts of rust, electrolysis is a great way to do it. If your trying to clean sections of body of rust, I use wire wheels in a drill or grinder. Then I use rust converter to fix any specs of rust the wire wheel may not have totally have gotten. Then I use por15. I have heard that eastwood chassis paint is superior to por15. Also por15 has a tougher version called hard nose or something.

 

[Scrapedknuckles]

I did a motorcycle frame. Poorman's powder coat. The stuff is rock hard.

 

[western flyer]

You might consider the product Rust Bullet as well.

edit: I have used Rust Bullet effectively for a couple decades now for similar situations. I have not used POR-15, but reportedly Rust Bullet is easier to use than POR-15 with fewer overall procedure steps. I will make similar recommendations for using Rust Bullet (to those otherwise made herein in this thread for POR-15) for protecting your skin and preserving the expensive product uncontaminated in the can after opening. This stuff will stay on your skin for what seems like weeks and will easily foul the lid closure of the can if allowed to dry around the lid seal. I like gofast's recommendations above.

 

[edfirebird68]

Its really amazing..... Just do the prep 1st, wire brush and such then hide/seal it w por15...
Ive used it 4 times and it never disappointed me.
Ed
Oh PS cover yourself well bc tar doesn't stick/stain/have the permeant residue like POR 15...
Great stuff

 

[RFB]

Has anyone used Steel-It yet, Its pretty damn sweet and sprays nicely. Polyurethane for Metal: Industrial Metallic Polyurethane Paint Coatings: Corrosion Heat & Wear Resistant Spray Paint System | STEEL-IT®

 

[thedoughboy]

X2 for Rust Bullet. That stuff works great!