Anybody ever try a reman Idle Air Control Valve (IACV)???

[Bill F]

So, the Cruiser started low idling and stalling and stumbling this morning, and searching reveals that the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) is probably gummed up, which after 226k would seem to make sense.

Called the dealer, and the Toyota part is NLA, and they're pricey when found elsewhere on the interwebz, from 240-500 bucks. Anyway, evilBay has a number of "remanufactured" options for a fraction of the price, has anyone tried them, and your results?

22270-66010 Idle Air Control Valve Connector Toyota Land Cruiser Lexus 4.5L | eBay

22270-66010 Idle Air Control Valve Connector For Toyota Land Cruiser Lexus 4.5L | eBay

As far as shade tree mechanic-in', I ordered 2 new o-rings from the dealer, and will pull the valve and attempt to clean it with carb cleaner and shoot the contacts with electronics cleaner for good measure. Anything else I should try, I mean other than the usual MUD preventative head gasket replacement???

Also, my bucket has recent tune-up, new oxygen sensors (Toyota, per Mudrak), new PCV valve and runs fine otherwise, save for the gas tank 'whoosh' at fill-up, which appears to only be remedied by installing a new charcoal canister, which I plan to do - but not sure if these issues would be in any way related.

Any input on this from the hive mind? TIA, this forum is truly amazing.

~ Bill

Quick update: just went out and started, let idle for a few minutes, revs went to 1400 +/- at cold start and progressively dropped as the thing warmed up. No CEL, so lends credence to air leak somewhere...

 

[ppc]

I sounds as though you are assuming the worst case scenario without doing any diagnostics. A bad IAC is a rather rare thing to go bad. A more likely reason would be a cracked intake hose.

 

[Bill F]

I sounds as though you are assuming the worst case scenario without doing any diagnostics. A bad IAC is a rather rare thing to go bad. A more likely reason would be a cracked intake hose.

Thanks, I will certainly check that before pulling things apart!

 

[bajaphile]

The IAC is serviceable to an extent. The hardest part is getting it off the throttle body without stripping the philips head screws.

Once it is off, you remove 3 more screws and carefully pull it apart. Pull the plunger out and clean with throttle body cleaner. You can clean the internals of the magnetic area with electrical contact cleaner, but it won't have any debris in there (unless the plastic plunger disintegrated?)

The thing people do here is pull on the spring a little to give it some more tensional force. You can even add an o-ring or two to preload it. After cleaning the plunger, I use a very light coat of white grease to ensure it slides within the body easily. You can try cleaning the port to the IAC on the throttle body as well.

However -- as mentioned earlier, it appears the IAC on these motors are not prone to failure like other Toyota's I've owned in the past.

 

[Tools R Us]

I doubt that the IAC is bad, but an easy way to test is to listen to them, it will click when it works. As the motor is turned off, it should click several times. Use one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-52500-Mechanics-Stethoscope/dp/B0002SQYSM

 

[gummycarbs]

Cool Tool for IAC Removal

I resolved all of my idle issues by cleaning the IAC, cleaning the passages where it enters the intake manifold, and replacing all the vacuum hoses. In particular, the PCV hoses, PCV valve, and brake booster hose made big improvements.

Follow up by resetting the IAC. Turn the ignition on and off 15 times within 30 seconds, or something like that.

 

[dcx13]

The IAC is serviceable to an extent. The hardest part is getting it off the throttle body without stripping the philips head screws.

The screw heads are actually a JIS (Japaniese Industrial Standard) pattern, which will accept a Philips driver. I'd suggest getting a JIS driver anyway, as it's a much better bite in all cross head screws. Even with the JIS driver, getting the IAC screws undone is a booger of a task. Once I had them out, I replaced them with 5mm allen heads. Much easier to install & remove now.

Sadly, even after servicing the IAC, and replacing the main intake hose, and replacing all the vacuum lines, and cleaning all electrical connections, etc, I still have an annoyingly high idle at start up, even when warm.

 

[Bill F]

The screw heads are actually a JIS (Japaniese Industrial Standard) pattern, which will accept a Philips driver. I'd suggest getting a JIS driver anyway, as it's a much better bite in all cross head screws. Even with the JIS driver, getting the IAC screws undone is a booger of a task. Once I had them out, I replaced them with 5mm allen heads. Much easier to install & remove now.

Sadly, even after servicing the IAC, and replacing the main intake hose, and replacing all the vacuum lines, and cleaning all electrical connections, etc, I still have an annoyingly high idle at start up, even when warm.

...googles JIS screwdrivers...thanks for the tip, probably worth buying a set rather than buggering the screw heads!