Anybody ever have their crank pully fall off????

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So I was out on the trail today and heard a big clank and squeeling from under the hood hopped out and my crank pulley/balancer was laying on the ground. The key got caught by the seal luckily, I was able to pound it back on and get off the trail. I have never seen or heard of anything like that before. Are these things just press fit? If so how can I make sure it doesn't happen again?
 
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Mine was wobbling pretty bad when I noticed it while working under the hood a few years ago. Tight on the crankshaft but the rubbery material was pretty much falling apart. Don't know why...
 

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There is no nut, the hand crank ears are cast to the ballancer . It's a '68, from what I just read, it looks like pre-'69 was press fit.



That is correct, it is a press-fit.

Get some green locktite retaining compound, clean everything up really well with brake cleaner, dry it off, coat the crank and damper/pulley with the retaining compound, drive the damper/pulley back on the engine and let it sit for 24/48 hours to cure.

Should stay in place after that, unless the damper/pulley is cracked where it fits onto the crankshaft.

:beer:
 
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I'd be very interested to hear how that works for you. Mine has been loose for a couple years and I have been ignoring it. We took a couple hundred mile trip today and I think it has gotten quite a bit worse. I am expecting it to fall off any time.
 
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Decided to post a little update. Been about a year since it happened, took Poser's advice and did the green locktite on it, had a number of runs since then and it is still hanging on. I took a measurement from the crossmember to the front of the pulley and check it from time to time and it hasn't moved since..
 

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Decided to post a little update. Been about a year since it happened, took Poser's advice and did the green locktite on it, had a number of runs since then and it is still hanging on. I took a measurement from the crossmember to the front of the pulley and check it from time to time and it hasn't moved since..



Glad to hear that it is working out!

:beer:
 

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My 76 (retaining nut) loosened up pretty good last year, but starting making a noticable resonating sound so I caught it before it worked its way off. Wondering why it had loosened, I pulled it off and the key had been mangled pretty severely by something, and was no longer holding a tight position. Re-sleeved it, installed a new key and cranked her down tight. Been a year and she's holding strong.
 
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crank off

when my '71 pulley fell off I couldn't believe that anyone would build something like this without a retaining nut. The first suggestion was to pack the end of the crank in dry ice and heat the pulley socket with a torch. When slapped together they should mate.

Not quite believing that I tried the loktite way. Worked for 3 months. After the second separation I drilled out for a bolt and the rest was history.
 

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when my '71 pulley fell off I couldn't believe that anyone would build something like this without a retaining nut.



Original 1971 F engine would have had a large nut threaded onto the end of the crankshaft retaining the pulley and balancer assembly from the factory, unlike the 08/69 and earlier F engines which relied solely on the interference fit of the balancer to the crank shaft......


:meh:
 
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Well took the Cruiser out last weekend and half way through the day heard a failure sound, the pulley rubbing on the metal shield, took a bar and whacked it back in place and it was fine for the rest of the day. Looks like I'll just have to make reapplying retaining compound part of my yearly maintenance. :hillbilly:
 
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Yeah, I'm guessing you are right, its an off-road only rig so i can live with it for a while. I've got a spare motor I'm starting to rebuild, so when that's done it will take care of my problem.
 
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I came across some Loctite 660 retaining compound today online, suppose to fill a larger gap and restore press fit tolerances, figure I'll give that a try this time.

DomSmith said:
Or...

Have the front of the balancer machined flat, drill and tap the crank (carefully) and use an SBC balancer bolt/washer and you're done. Worked on my 45 and now I don't worry about it...

Interesting idea. How hard was it to drill out the crank? I'm not too concerned with this motor, but the one I'm rebuilding is also press fit so I would be nice to do it to that one.
 

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Or...

Have the front of the balancer machined flat, drill and tap the crank (carefully) and use an SBC balancer bolt/washer and you're done. Worked on my 45 and now I don't worry about it...

That's what I did on the original motor in Ruftoys! Great minds think alike! {Or did I tell you that the day you showed up with the balancer?]

Best

Mark A.
 

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