Any tips on removing the water inlet housing? (1 Viewer)

[shtbrwn86]

I don't think mine has ever been removed in 250k miles and it's stuck on there good. I've seen people say you could put a pry bar on it but I can't see where. I went at it with a rubber mallet and it just laughed at me and didn't budge... I can't see where I can get something in between to pry the pieces apart either.

Every post i read on here just shows the housing removed, with the occasional mention that it's hard to remove.

 

[3_puppies]

careful, some have broken it and had to carefully cut out the neck that was stuck inside.

 

[suprarx7nut]

You might have to break it. I did.

Lazy (or unaware) mechanics sometimes use a sealant on that O-ring joint. That's a huge no-no because it can make it nearly impossible to remove without damage. My 99 had a sealant on it and it was glued into place. I had to fracture the neck and dremel out the residue.

I'd get a replacement ordered up ASAP if timing is critical. It's a very common piece to break when removing. Make sure you have a brand new O-ring when re-installing. My t-belt kit did not include that O-ring.

 

[MJK]

It is a pain for sure. From my recollection, and follow at your own risk:

First, spray the o-ring area with lube. Then, twist/lift the right side of housing as little as possible to break the gasket seal around the water pump. Then pull, twist, wiggle, the left o-ring area. The force required to remove it was well into 'oh crap I hope I don't break this' territory. I wouldn't hammer or pry bar it unless you feel you have no other options.

 

[shtbrwn86]

Damn. Well at least I know that if I break it I'm not the first. I did read about someone breaking it before on here.

On the one hand the prior owner did almost everything at the dealer. I'd be surprised if anyone but the dealer touched this part. But I also see some black stuff in the seal which concerns me a bit.

 

[shtbrwn86]

Also the thermostat housing was leaking and when I pulled it off the gasket looked terrible. And it was replaced at the dealer like 50k miles ago.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Hit the hell out of it with a rubber mallet. It will eventually come loose. Do NOT use a crowbar!!!

 

[shtbrwn86]

Hit the hell out of it with a rubber mallet. It will eventually come loose. Do NOT use a crowbar!!!

Funny you say that because that's what I've been doing the past 20 minutes. Just noticed it starting to wiggle free. Ran out of time tonight but at least I can see it moving. That tells me it should come loose. I may need a bigger mallet though.

 

[suprarx7nut]

Damn. Well at least I know that if I break it I'm not the first. I did read about someone breaking it before on here.

On the one hand the prior owner did almost everything at the dealer. I'd be surprised if anyone but the dealer touched this part. But I also see some black stuff in the seal which concerns me a bit.

View attachment 2420304

I've been surprised to learn the last year or two that many dealer jobs are sub-par. Tis a shame.

 

[suprarx7nut]

Hit the hell out of it with a rubber mallet. It will eventually come loose. Do NOT use a crowbar!!!

This is funny. I hit mine with a rubber dead blow for an uncomfortably long time. Wouldn't budge one iota. I finally caved and used a metal pry bar. It moved! ... and then it cracked a second later.

 

[gatormark91]

Try this: Use a length of 30 or 40 pound fishing line. Get it in the gap behind the housing, and using a back and forth sawing motion, cut the sealer behind it. I use this technique a lot for cutting sealed/glued stuff off of surfaces I don't want to damage.

 

[white_lx]

I always start with a shot of penetrating oil around the neck. If you have any movement it will certainly creep in cracks. Repeat after an hour if required.

 

[baltistyle]

Broke mine as well due to sealant. Fortunately an inexpensive piece. I also had to do the front crossover pipe that it inserts into.

 

[shtbrwn86]

Try this: Use a length of 30 or 40 pound fishing line. Get it in the gap behind the housing, and using a back and forth sawing motion, cut the sealer behind it. I use this technique a lot for cutting sealed/glued stuff off of surfaces I don't want to damage.

Ok, this tip needs to be at the top of the list for this job!!! I didn't have any 30lb line but I did have some 12lb which i was able to slide in there and break the gasket seal. Now the neck moves pretty easily, so I just sprayed a little penetrating lubricant on it and with time I'm sure it will come out!!!

 

[shtbrwn86]

Broke mine as well due to sealant. Fortunately an inexpensive piece. I also had to do the front crossover pipe that it inserts into.

Uh that sounds horrible! I would be really annoyed to have to do that piece too!

 

[shtbrwn86]

I always start with a shot of penetrating oil around the neck. If you have any movement it will certainly creep in cracks. Repeat after an hour if required.

Did that this morning. wiggled it back and forth a bit to get the lubricant in there while I cut through the gasket. Hopefully the neck comes out with enough sweet talking!

 

[shtbrwn86]

This is funny. I hit mine with a rubber dead blow for an uncomfortably long time. Wouldn't budge one iota. I finally caved and used a metal pry bar. It moved! ... and then it cracked a second later.

Something tells me you didn't think it was funny at the time!

 

[NoVaGator]

If you can wiggle it, it will eventually come out.

I wound up replacing mine because the pitting was terrible

 

[shtbrwn86]

If you can wiggle it, it will eventually come out.

I wound up replacing mine because the pitting was terrible

I saw your other post where you bought the replacement part that came with the pre-installed gasket. I always wondered why Toyota would use FIPG for seals like that. I know it's good stuff but it seems so easy to do incorrectly, either by technique or the wrong gasket material.

You posted what like 4 months ago that you used the pre-installed gasket. Any leaks? If no then I will probably just order the new housing regardless. It's only $87 and the FIPG they want you to use is $35 a tube. Plus it looks like it comes with the o-ring already. Seems like a decent price and harder to mess up. I also am pretty sure I will find lots of pitting on mine when I pull it. The thermostat outlet for the radiator hose has some decent pitting on it.

 

[NoVaGator]

I saw your other post where you bought the replacement part that came with the pre-installed gasket. I always wondered why Toyota would use FIPG for seals like that. I know it's good stuff but it seems so easy to do incorrectly, either by technique or the wrong gasket material.

You posted what like 4 months ago that you used the pre-installed gasket. Any leaks? If no then I will probably just order the new housing regardless. It's only $87 and the FIPG they want you to use is $35 a tube. Plus it looks like it comes with the o-ring already. Seems like a decent price and harder to mess up. I also am pretty sure I will find lots of pitting on mine when I pull it. The thermostat outlet for the radiator hose has some decent pitting on it.

the part has been 100% leak free and the truck has been running great since that service (water pump, timing belt, radiator, hoses) during some pretty hot summer weather