Any reason to "tune-up" at 120k miles?

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iptman

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I'm at 119k miles and am curious as to why/if I should replace plug wires, distributor cap and rotor if my engine runs great. I just replaced my air filter with a new washable OEM (old one wasn't the washable version...ask me how I know). I've had no drive-ability problems with my truck at all in the 19k miles that I've owned it. I know there's nothing in the owners manual about these items for the 120k mile service but it seems the consensus on here is to replace all of this at that mark.

Thoughts?
 
I would replace spark plugs and PCV valve, and inspect cap and rotor and replace if needed. Personally I would replace wires if they are original, but they may be fine.
 
It's called PM or preventive maintenance for a reason.

Get the smart-shopper price on a new set of plug wires if yours are original. You can tell by the date inked on your wire set. Can't see ink? Time for new ones.

I'd just do a thorough maintenance inspection while doing the oil change.
Inspect brake pads, retract calipers and flush brake fluid.
Replace 4WD fluids if you haven't done this in a while. Ditto coolant. PHH if it's swollen.
Inspect birf grease, and repack when you replace rotors (if your pads are worn down)
 
I did plugs and wires tonight along with PCV and grommet. I recommend it. My wires were original and my plugs too I'm pretty sure. Another benefit is you can check the plugs at 5 and 6 and get an idea if there is a HG issue. Mine ran good too but it's easy PM and takes 2 hours if you go super slow and read the FSM.

I took some pics of my plugs and wires over on my 80 project thread.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/al-dixieland-cruisers/592230-my-new-80-project.html

I also did fluids, rotors, calipers, repacked birfs, an all that jazz.
 
I would replace spark plugs and PCV valve, and inspect cap and rotor and replace if needed. Personally I would replace wires if they are original, but they may be fine.

What would one look for to know if the rotor and cap need replacing?
 
It's called PM or preventive maintenance for a reason.

Yeah I hear you....just like to know why. Wear parts and fluids I understand, I just don't get how plug wires get worn out and need replacing. I mean, it's a wire with rubber sealed ends on both sides. Plus the wires don't run anywhere near the exhaust manifold like on V8 engines. And it's not the cost, it's more the principle.
 
Wires dry out that is the rubber shielding becomes brittle and the wires start to short or give a weaker signal.
Land Cruisers retain a lot of heat in the engine bay that drys out hoses, wires, rubber grommets and sometimes even head gaskets. lol
You need to do PM's so your not on the trail broke down wishing you had.
 
Yeah I hear you....just like to know why.

My reason is probably the same as most of the peeps here. I like new stuff. I know that new stuff will last me another 20 years :D

At 120k miles (200,000 km) the vehicle is well beyond the original design life. At that mileage, it's not unreasonable to change pieces one at a time.

Also, when you pull on the plug wire to remove it from the plug, the pulling action often breaks them. They're old and brittle from sustained baking in the engine bay. More than once I've changed plugs only to do the wires the following day, after there was a complaint of rough idle. Now I just recommend doing plug wires at 120k mi/200k km intervals so I don't have to deal with the possible complaints.

It's good PM. :D
 
i had original cap and rotor and wires on mine, all i can say is my LC does not have a slight vibration any more when at idle, and it feels more powerful, and i changed mine at 138k so not to far from you.
 
What would one look for to know if the rotor and cap need replacing?

The Rotor and Cap are not part of the Ignition System Timing Inspection information in the FSM.

The primary reason to replace them is that they are the two components that pass along the information from the Ignition Timing System to the spark plug wires/spark plugs. The distributor rotor goes round and round and hits the cap to which the spark plug wires are connected. These 2 parts (rotor and cap) wear over time, resulting in a less positive communication to the spark plug wires. Replacing them along with the spark plug wires and spark plugs insures that the most accurate, positive signal is being transmitted from the Ignition Timing System (which is adjustable) to the spark plugs.

It's just part of making sure the engine is firing as accurately as possible, which means more efficiency/accuracy in the engine's operation.
 
If it ain't broke don't fix it

My wires are all original stamped "1997". 172K miles. My mechanic didn't want to change them. He said if everything as running OK, then there's no reason to mess with it.

why would he turn down money for an easy job like that?
 
My wires are all original stamped "1997". 172K miles. My mechanic didn't want to change them. He said if everything as running OK, then there's no reason to mess with it.

why would he turn down money for an easy job like that?


It's definitely not a requirement. Most members here do like to be on the cautious side, that's all, nothing wrong with leaving them be. Your truck certainly won't blow up because of it. Who knows, the wires could last another 100k.
 
Personally for the price it's totally worth it to do a full tune up. I sell kits for a lot of the PM items. Tune up kit is $162.72 shipped (plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and fuel filter) and a PCV and grommet is about $8. Just the piece of mind knowing that the parts have been changed is worth it.
 
Wires dry out that is the rubber shielding becomes brittle and the wires start to short or give a weaker signal.
Land Cruisers retain a lot of heat in the engine bay that drys out hoses, wires, rubber grommets and sometimes even head gaskets.

This makes sense but certainly Id notice drivability issues if any of these were the case...right?
 
The above post was to answer your post above this original post.
You stated you don't see how wires can ware out.
HEAT plain and simple besides being pulled on to replace plugs, caps, change a part.
It sounds like you only want to replace parts that fail and that's fine. Each to their own.

You may not always notice drivability issues until you do some PM's since it got slowly bad as you got use to it as norm operation of you rig.

3:00am out on the trail or on the side of a road is not where I want to replace basic PM stuff because of ( "If it ain't broke don't fix it." ) attitude or the principle of it.

PM in my option is worth every dollar and more. Every body wants that rig that the PM has been done/maintained on when it's time to hit the road/trail and likewise when its time to buy or sale.

JM2C
 
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This makes sense but certainly Id notice drivability issues if any of these were the case...right?

Yes you would.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it. I generally follow that principal.

Preventative maintenance is an oxymoron.

When you start replacing things that are still in spec, then that is called being anal.
 
Yes you would.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it. I generally follow that principal.

Preventative maintenance is an oxymoron.

When you start replacing things that are still in spec, then that is called being anal.

This was my granddad's philosophy, but not so much mine.

I routinely haul my wife and baby around on long trips, and the last thing I want is something to break and leave me stranded along I-95 in the middle of the summer.

That's why I do preventative maintenance.
 
This makes sense but certainly Id notice drivability issues if any of these were the case...right?

Most likely, but sometimes the drivability issue you would notice is that it's not drivable. I would rather replace a wear item at its scheduled maintenance period in the comfort and convenience of my garage than on the side of the road somewhere.

I'm talking things like hoses, belts, plugs, cap, rotor, wires, brakes, bearings, etc.

Yes you would.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it. I generally follow that principal.

Preventative maintenance is an oxymoron.

When you start replacing things that are still in spec, then that is called being anal.

There are a lot of anal people around here, including myself.
 
Personally for the price it's totally worth it to do a full tune up. I sell kits for a lot of the PM items. Tune up kit is $162.72 shipped (plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and fuel filter) and a PCV and grommet is about $8. Just the piece of mind knowing that the parts have been changed is worth it.

as I was reading the thread i made up my mind I was going to replace all this stuff on mine and I was wondering the costs, thanks. I have the rough idle, will have to check for dates to see if my stuff is Original (94). Truck purrs other than that.
 
Tune-ups are cheap insurance. Why run on old parts like these when they are so cheap?
 

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