Any good electric water pump for 80 series? (1 Viewer)

[daCruiser]

My rig got this heating while idle issue. As of now I've replaced the following: radiator, thermostat, fan clutch and radiator cap. Issue remains.

Just back from the Rubicon and the only trick that helped keeping it cool was revving at around 2k RPM every time gauge start climbing up.

Was told that an electric water pump may solve the issue and even gain couple HPs as a bonus. However, all I could find would fit only domestic engines. Hope someone can point me in the right direction.

 

[-Spike-]

My rig got this heating while idle issue. As of now I've replaced the following: radiator, thermostat, fan clutch and radiator cap. Issue remains.

Just back from the Rubicon and the only trick that helped keeping it cool was revving at around 2k RPM every time gauge start climbing up.

Was told that an electric water pump may solve the issue and even gain couple HPs as a bonus. However, all I could find would fit only domestic engines. Hope someone can point me in the right direction.

Highly unlikely this will help. There are tens of thousands of 80's on the road with functioning cooling systems utilizing the stock water pump. In fact, it may be the only component in the system that has never been modified or improved upon (although I fully expect someone to prove me wrong on this, but even if that happens it's still incredibly rare). Your trick is most likely working because you are pulling more air through the radiator. What radiator did you use? Did you replace the foam around it? Have you checked out the hundreds of threads related to cooling issues?

 

[clx16]

Every time a vehicle got hot on me and rev to fix... it was low on coolant for various reasons... in short air-pocket has caused that for me on vehicles so, radiator cap, leaks, then check radiator, but keep the level up. also, unlikely the fan clutch might not be working the best.

 

[inkpot]

What fan clutch are you running? Even if you have a new Aisin Blue, it can be improved upon by upgrading the silicon fluid in it.

 

[daCruiser]

Thanks for all the feedback. To clarify:

• Coolant always topped off (note - sometimes when turning off engine, coolant boils and comes out of reservoir tank)
• Fan clutch used as replacement - TOYOTA LAND CRUISER LX450 JDM SHIMAHIDE JAPAN PREMIUM FAN CLUTCH 16210-66020 | eBay
• Cap used as replacement - SANKEI Japan Radiator Cap fits 1982-2004 Toyota 4Runner Pickup Tacoma Corolla | eBay
• Radiator - I believe it was generic AutoZone radiator, didn't notice any foam

As far as I know, there's no leak as in case one was spotted, I would taken care of it. Unless, there's a possibility there's a leak so small that coolant leaks and vapes away .. not reaching the ground?

 

[clx16]

If you know air isn't the issue then do you have away of monitoring the temp? Either obdII or a manual sensor? Can you see if the fan rotates by hand easily after cold and after warm up? Obviously with the vehicle turned off..

 

[flintknapper]

Was told that an electric water pump may solve the issue and even gain couple HPs as a bonus. However, all I could find would fit only domestic engines. Hope someone can point me in the right direction.

Airflow and Radiator performance are your likely issues.

I would 'mod' any fan clutch you have with a higher CST silicone fluid (15-20K minimum). Your radiator (though new) may not be the 'best' for your application.

I would not consider an electric water pump even IF you could find one. It just isn't necessary....as thousands of Land Cruisers operate fine with the OEM. Not to mention that an electric water pump would need to be 'matched' to the engine parameters.

Simply moving more coolant through the system has a 'high end' and could actually make things worse. Your radiator is a 'heat exchanger' and can only conduct and release heat so fast. Three areas in your cooling system that can create a bottle neck are:

1. Thermostat (not opening fully, or stuck).
2. Radiator (poor design or materials, dirty).
3. Insufficient air flow (fan clutch not operating as well as it could/should, fan shroud missing or damaged, radiator missing foam seals).

 

[ChaseTruck]

Overdrive pulley for the water pump.

 

[cybrstar]

Check the electrical bearings on the waterpump, thermostat, radiator fan. Heard they can go bad once in a while.

 

[scottryana]

Home | Meziere Enterprises

Family owned and operated company focused on providing quality performance parts. We specialize in cooling systems, flexplates, starters, and transmission products.

www.meziere.com

Makes an electric water pump for the 1FZ, but they will not sell it to you. They say it is a proprietary part for Sub Zero racing in the middle east. Sub Zero used to have it on their website but have since changed their website. If you really want one it would be worth the email.....

SubZero | MotorSports

subzeromotorsport.com

 

[daCruiser]

Based on above feedback, looking for recommendations on the following items:

• Radiator (aluminum? 4 row?)
• Thermostat (although replaced, maybe there's a more trustworthy item?)

Ordered 20K CST silicone oil.

On my TODO list:

• Replace radiator (w/ proper foam around) and possibly thermostat)
• Replace fluid in fan clutch
• Inspect water pump

 

[-Spike-]

Based on above feedback, looking for recommendations on the following items:

• Radiator (aluminum? 4 row?)
• Thermostat (although replaced, maybe there's a more trustworthy item?)

Ordered 20K CST silicone oil.

On my TODO list:

• Replace radiator (w/ proper foam around) and possibly thermostat)
• Replace fluid in fan clutch
• Inspect water pump

You haven't told us what you're driving, so here are some generic answers that mostly relate to a 1FZ motor-

Aluminum core has proven to be superior in performance to brass/copper. Popular options (in order of cost low to high)- TYC (personal favorite), Koyo, Denso, Toyorad (OEM) , Ron Davis (all-aluminum). The foam seal around it is important. If you already have a newish aluminum radiator, sealing it to the core support may be all you need.

Thermostat- I prefer OEM or Aisin. Stant is garbage IMO. @richardlillard1 recently put in a 170 degree thermostat with good results, believe it was a Denso...?

My personal inspection of a water pump is checking the movement of the pulley for smoothness. Otherwise, if you're gonna pull it off, just replace it. They rarely fail, but they're not expensive and I prefer to be proactive rather than stuck somewhere.

One of my favorite suppliers is RockAuto.

 

[richardlillard1]

You haven't told us what you're driving, so here are some generic answers that mostly relate to a 1FZ motor-

Aluminum core has proven to be superior in performance to brass/copper. Popular options (in order of cost low to high)- TYC (personal favorite), Koyo, Denso, Toyorad (OEM) , Ron Davis (all-aluminum). The foam seal around it is important. If you already have a newish aluminum radiator, sealing it to the core support may be all you need.

Thermostat- I prefer OEM or Denso. Stant is garbage IMO. @richardlillard1 recently put in a 170 degree thermostat with good results, believe it was a Denso...?

My personal inspection of a water pump is checking the movement of the pulley for smoothness. Otherwise, if you're gonna pull it off, just replace it. They rarely fail, but they're not expensive and I prefer to be proactive rather than stuck somewhere.

One of my favorite suppliers is RockAuto.

Aisin. THM-010

 

[-Spike-]

Aisin. THM-010

Funny, I meant Aisin, was staring at it on RockAuto's site.

Who are you again?

 

[98 SNAKE EATER]

Are you just looking at the factory gauge or getting an actual reading from the DLC?

 

[MoJ]

Based on above feedback, looking for recommendations on the following items:

• Radiator (aluminum? 4 row?)
• Thermostat (although replaced, maybe there's a more trustworthy item?)

Ordered 20K CST silicone oil.

On my TODO list:

• Replace radiator (w/ proper foam around) and possibly thermostat)
• Replace fluid in fan clutch
• Inspect water pump

Start with replacing the fluid in the fan clutch.

 

[daCruiser]

RockAuto only have 'LILAND GLOBAL' as all aluminum option. I already got the aluminum / plastic radiator and prefer to get one that's all aluminum. Since that particular one was not recommended above, wanted to see if this is it still a good option?

More Information for LILAND GLOBAL 1918AA

 

[-Spike-]

RockAuto only have 'LILAND GLOBAL' as all aluminum option. I already got the aluminum / plastic radiator and prefer to get one that's all aluminum. Since that particular one was not recommended above, wanted to see if this is it still a good option?

More Information for LILAND GLOBAL 1918AA

Way ahead of you.

 

[daCruiser]

Way ahead of you.

Missed that .. Guess I'll be the reporting guinea pig. THANKS!

 

[daCruiser]

Update

What was done:

• Drain, clean and refill original fan clutch with 20K silicone
• Replaced Radiator w/ 'LILAND GLOBAL' from RockAuto
• Replaced water pump w/ 'AISIN'
• Replaced thermostat w/ 'AISIN' 170 degree

So far (couple of months), there was only one time when the temp gauge start going up while we were climbing a rocky hill on a warm day (mid 90s). Once noticed, engaged low gear in order to increase RPM .. that seems to resolve the issue. No more incidents since. But worth mentioning that weather is way cooler most of the time. Guess we'll need to wait for summer time in order to know better if problem is resolved.