Any caster correction needed for 2" lift?

Irish Reiver

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Oct 24, 2015
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Orlando, Florida
Are you running a DC DS? I’ve got the Landtank 2.5’s as well and Delta‘s rear panhard lift bracket. I now have a higher lift after swapping in some gently used Dobs 146-VT’s / 147-VT’s and my fronts are 23.75“ and 23.85”. I added the IMS shocks and the ride is super, I don’t have vibes but do have the occasional low growl if the throttle is feathered just right on a high speed downhill. Truck still drives really nice even though I might be a little caster light; would love to solve the growl though. Then I’d be done, swear.
Yep. Once i knew my numbers were good I had Tom Woods build one for me.
 

devo

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Nov 3, 2002
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City Different
So I got to thinking, is 2.5* of castor correction not the same whether you use a bushing or a plate?
Don’t they both accomplish the same goal?
Why is one better than the other?


I got to know……

devo
 
Joined
Sep 15, 2016
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996
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Chattanooga, TN
Possibly the same in terms of the resulting caster but even the different plates aren't all the same in some subtle and likely important ways. Some plates may net desired caster without as many issues with tie-rod to radius arm clearance for example. The bushings that offer caster correction are different from OE bushing in a number of ways including the caster bushings being less durable and firmer in terms of flex and ride quality. There seems to be some variety of experience from one 80 to another based on overall setup, use, etc. for bushings and plates as well.
 

baldilocks

Battle Ground, WA
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Jan 29, 2014
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Bushings and plates are bandaid’s. Definitely stay away from correction bushings if you plan to to drive off road and twist the suspension a good deal. The plates create the problem of tie rod to leading arm interference.

I ground down my original arms to run Slee castor plates when I was new to the 80 and Slee arms were the only choice and seemed very expensive at the time when I was trying to save money. Building an 80 and saving money are two contradicting ideas. I’ve learned that.

Long story short; all that crap is hack work and bandaid patches. The most correct way to get castor back to spec post lift is to use drop brackets at the frame end of the arms. The next most correct, and by far the most popular, solution is arms designed for the lift on the truck.

I got tired of dealing with tie rod contact even though I ground the arm practically all the way through the top of the arm and into the web of the I beam so I bought Delta arms. Wish I had done it sooner.

In the end, castor plates were a waste of time and money.
 
Joined
Oct 7, 2016
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Alameda
One other consideration for the delta arms.
If you’re a shade tree mechanic, without a welder or a 20,000# press at your disposal, delta arms are pretty much the only wrench off / wrench on option.

In “retro spec”, despite the $$$, and all other considered, for my rig….they were absolutely my best option.

Been very happy with the Dobi 1.75 IMS and Delta arms. Doesn’t feel like overkill, just feels like the right solution.
 
Joined
Apr 8, 2021
Messages
54
Location
Washington, USA
Bushings and plates are bandaid’s. Definitely stay away from correction bushings if you plan to to drive off road and twist the suspension a good deal. The plates create the problem of tie rod to leading arm interference.

I ground down my original arms to run Slee castor plates when I was new to the 80 and Slee arms were the only choice and seemed very expensive at the time when I was trying to save money. Building an 80 and saving money are two contradicting ideas. I’ve learned that.

Long story short; all that crap is hack work and bandaid patches. The most correct way to get castor back to spec post lift is to use drop brackets at the frame end of the arms. The next most correct, and by far the most popular, solution is arms designed for the lift on the truck.

I got tired of dealing with tie rod contact even though I ground the arm practically all the way through the top of the arm and into the web of the I beam so I bought Delta arms. Wish I had done it sooner.

In the end, castor plates were a waste of time and money.
When I first got my 80 I posted on the 80 series FB page about my new purchase. Someone gave me a heads up that this hobby/disease would be very expensive and every time I tear apart the truck a little bit more and find a new thing I need to do that comment and many other comments come to mind.

Theres no shortcuts when it comes to doing things right, and after my baseline and then the lift I'm going to have to purchase the Delta arms.

How much of a difference in terms of everyday vs off road driving have you noticed?
 

baldilocks

Battle Ground, WA
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Jan 29, 2014
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When I first got my 80 I posted on the 80 series FB page about my new purchase. Someone gave me a heads up that this hobby/disease would be very expensive and every time I tear apart the truck a little bit more and find a new thing I need to do that comment and many other comments come to mind.

Theres no shortcuts when it comes to doing things right, and after my baseline and then the lift I'm going to have to purchase the Delta arms.

How much of a difference in terms of everyday vs off road driving have you noticed?
Night and day difference. With castor plates designed for a 4” lift I had .5 degrees positive castor with about 4.5” of lift and still had the tie rod issue plus darty steering.

Proper arms not only correct castor but they solve the tie rod contact issue, move the axle forward back to where it was pre lift, will automatically give you new bushings if you order them loaded with, and, if your buy the narrower delta arms, you get a little more flex.

Remember to get the Delta rear track bar axle end bracket as well. I built my own and the combination of that and the proper arms made my rig feel much more stable. No more white knuckles.
 

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