Anti-wrap (traction) bar questions (1 Viewer)

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Fellow cruiser-heads, i need some advice. I will post pictures to explain what I'm doing, but essentially i had to cut out the original crossmember that sits behind the transmission to fit the H55 and now I have to build in a new one to weld anti-wrap to. Here's what we've got....

Original crossmember cut....looking to place new one where the red arrow is.....
IMG_3792-edit.jpg


I need to maintain access to back side of frame in case I need to remove steps in the future... (green arrow- bolts, red arrow- where I would drill through the frame)
IMG_3793-edit.jpg


My best estimate is that I will need a crossmember that is almost 36" long if I do it like stock and go through the frame on both sides....
IMG_3794.JPG


This would leave the crossmember about 27" from the rear axle.

Question--will this leave a long enough anti-wrap bar to be effective? I am using the Ruffstuff kit which has 2" x .25 DOM as bottom bar.

Will hopefully look like this....
1597017761641.png
 
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Also, what do you recommend using to drill through the frame? Hole saw? Brands? I don't have a plasma.

What else could I/ should I use to reinforce the frame?
 

pjohnson

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If you are not SOA, you probably don't need an anti-wrap bar. If you do need one, it should be as long as feasible. That being said, you should add a cross member back in for frame strength.

You could weld the nuts for your steps in so they don't turn. Then weld a plate over the open area to mount a cross member to.
 
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i put my crossmember about there and used that same kit from ruff stuff. seemed to fit nicely but i haven’t driven it. still building everything else
too.

1597071526216.jpeg

i ran it through the outside of the frame and then played it inside so it has two walls on each side of the frame it’s attached to
 
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The round tube you cut out is a "torque tube" it was put there to return your hot riveted frame back to stock (once you hit the highway) after a hard day of twisting the frame off road. You could possibly weld/attach new tubes to the frame that your missing torque tube could re-attach to ??? Also, what ever front mount your traction bar attaches to must be exceedingly strong. Every time you accelerate your new traction bar is attempting to make your rig do a wheelie, which is trying to rip out the front traction bar mount. I recall some of the Baja race trucks having extra steel tubes welded on a 45 degree angle from their traction bar's front mount back to the frame.
 
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i put my crossmember about there and used that same kit from ruff stuff. seemed to fit nicely but i haven’t driven it. still building everything else
too.

View attachment 2399258
i ran it through the outside of the frame and then played it inside so it has two walls on each side of the frame it’s attached to
What size tubing did you use?
 
Joined
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Messages
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The round tube you cut out is a "torque tube" it was put there to return your hot riveted frame back to stock (once you hit the highway) after a hard day of twisting the frame off road. You could possibly weld/attach new tubes to the frame that your missing torque tube could re-attach to ??? Also, what ever front mount your traction bar attaches to must be exceedingly strong. Every time you accelerate your new traction bar is attempting to make your rig do a wheelie, which is trying to rip out the front traction bar mount. I recall some of the Baja race trucks having extra steel tubes welded on a 45 degree angle from their traction bar's front mount back to the frame.
The stock cross member doesn't look to be any thicker than 1/8" and it seems like most people weld to that. Do you think that is sufficient or am I looking for 3/16 or 1/4?
 
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i can’t remember exactly what i used but i think it was 2 1/2 inch diameter tube but heavier than stock thickness. i don’t do a ton of hard wheeling. mostly trail running but some logs and ditches etc. i did it more because i’m here now and i’d rather do it while i’m building it rather than later as an add on.
 
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Update: I found a shop that attempted to bend 2" Tube, .25 wall to fit around the parking brake. They did a decent job. We welded the straight pieces into the bend to simplify things a bit. We are creeping closer to completion.

Trying to be careful to line everything up. I'll try and get some better pics of the cross member tomorrow.
IMG_3915.jpeg

IMG_3914.jpeg
 

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