Anti-seize? (1 Viewer)

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Which is truly the best depends on where you're going to use it. Which helps you not at all. For general use I prefer the lead based and the copper based over the the more common aluminum based. For really high heat or exotic fasteners you might be needing either the nickel based or the nuclear which has no metal in it.
 
The "best" for ambient temp applications and particularly aluminum, is prolly a zinc-based anti-seize, but it's gonna be $40 for a pint (Mcmaster-carr.com). Next for ambient temp is the something like the Bostik regular, as above. I use that on everything except manifold fasteners where I use Bostik Nickel stuff. And FWIW I had to take the CAT off to replace it, and with with nickel A-S, the flange bolts came apart without much effort.
 
x3 on the bostik. Thats all I use as well.
 
Top tip on the flange bolts, use brass nuts and no anti-sneeze. Really. I built a modular exhaust system for my Xcab Mini using 5 sets of stepped flanges. I have ~35k on the system like this. Comes apart when I need it to with no drama, never ever had a bolt/nut loosen.

For t-stat bolts I'd use copper because I have it. Not familiar with the Bostik product, but it looks like it would do the job. I tend to avoid anything aluminum based when dealing with aluminum castings, but that might just be me being overly anal....
 
Yeah, I know brass nuts are the way to go for exhaust flange fasteners, but since they're hard to find (i.e. mail order), I usually don't think of it till it's too late...
 
I use whatever I can get at the local autozone...


Aluminum permatex probably..
 
Mace said:
I use whatever I can get at the local autozone...

Aluminum permatex probably..
Click to expand...

Cool. Thanks for the simple answer. I plan on doing the t'stat this weekend since it's leaking because when a friend tried helping me replace it last time there wasn't an O ring... After reading many threads, I understand it much better. And need to redo it correctly.
I appreciate all the assistance. I'm learning tons from all of you. Thank you!
 
The reasonably cheap way to get the copper plated self- locking nuts is to search for BMW exhaust manifold nuts.

In the aftermarket, they usually have the thread pitch and diameter listed, and between various models
and the downpipe nuts, you can find 6- 12mm sizes in the 2- for-a- buck range.

And I use the aluminum stuff on things that don't matter (because it seems to grow on trees)
and copper when it DOES matter (like water pumps and such like)

fwiw,

t
 
Thanks for the suggestion... I'll keep it in mind. I'm hoping to do this, this weekend so hunting down bolts probably isn't in the plan.
 
I use the same stuff Mace uses. Permatex.
 
[hijack]
TobyB said:
snippage
The reasonably cheap way to get the copper plated self- locking nuts is to search for BMW exhaust manifold nuts.

In the aftermarket, they usually have the thread pitch and diameter listed, and between various models
and the downpipe nuts, you can find 6- 12mm sizes in the 2- for-a- buck range.
Click to expand...
VW also uses those copper plated prevailing torque lock nuts on the early Rabbits. Top tip for ACVW guys is to use them on their air coolers. Regular brass nuts like I referred to above, OTH, can be had from a real fastener store like Specialty Tool & Bolt (they're semi-local to me so no shipping). Cool thing about some of the metric versions that I've bought is that they are longer than a typical steel nut - nearly are the length of a coupler nut. [/hijack]
 
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