Another Synthetic Oil Discussion

[cruiserruf]

came accross this article on AOL.

"Should I Use Synthetic Oil In My Car?
That depends on the vehicle's age, mileage, and the carmaker's recommendations for engine lubricants. Older vehicles with high mileage tend to have excessive mechanical wear in the engine, allowing for internal oil leakage. On vehicles with high mileage, it is not recommended to use full synthetic oil because it is thin and very free flowing, and use of it does (more often than not) result in internal oil combustion. I used full synthetic oil in a Plymouth Neon. After logging120K miles the car started to consume oil at an alarming rate. Concerned, I switched to a semi-synthetic oil that was more full-bodied and the consumption stopped. I logged another 30K miles and sold it. It's still running with over 200K miles today and it doesn't burn oil. Carmakers use full synthetics and semi synthetics in some of their engines today. In most cases, you will find that a synthetic lubricant is used when there's a high performance engine with tight engine tolerances, high compression, and high operating temperatures. Follow your owner's manual for motor oil recommendations. If you want to use synthetic oil and your car is still under warranty, check with your local dealer before switching to synthetic oil (just to make sure you're covered with the switch)"

Anyone care to comment?? Since the majority of us have high mileage cruisers I thought I might share....

 

[mainemike]

Lots of controversial opinions on this topic. The argument that thinner synth oils will leak has been offset by manufacturers adding chemicals to help swell aging gaskets, limiting the leaking. Many folks specifically switch to synth on aging motors to extend life.

But every motor (even among the 'same' motor) is different.

My experience was consumption of 1 qt. of dino every 2500 miles. Switching to Rotella synthetic (at 145,000 miles) has stopped the consumption so far. Blackstone oil reports on dino showed a high lead count attributed to bearings; Rotella has dropped that count considerably. I have Blackstones for the last 5 oil changes - 3 dino and 2 synthetic.

So for me, the switch to Rotella synth has been positive. Although using Rotella ($32 for 8 qts) plus Blackstone ($23) plus C-dan filters ($10) does mean it's a $60 oil change, but what the hey, I like the data aspect of it all, and the 80 is my only child.

mike

 

[PACNW96]

Lots of controversial opinions on this topic. The argument that thinner synth oils will leak has been offset by manufacturers adding chemicals to help swell aging gaskets, limiting the leaking. Many folks specifically switch to synth on aging motors to extend life.

But every motor (even among the 'same' motor) is different.

My experience was consumption of 1 qt. of dino every 2500 miles. Switching to Rotella synthetic (at 145,000 miles) has stopped the consumption so far. Blackstone oil reports on dino showed a high lead count attributed to bearings; Rotella has dropped that count considerably. I have Blackstones for the last 5 oil changes - 3 dino and 2 synthetic.

So for me, the switch to Rotella synth has been positive. Although using Rotella ($32 for 8 qts) plus Blackstone ($23) plus C-dan filters ($10) does mean it's a $60 oil change, but what the hey, I like the data aspect of it all, and the 80 is my only child.

mike

Not to hijack, but may I ask what viscosity you are using Mike? Congrats on eliminating the consumption.

I have been running Mobil 1 since 77k with no consumption so far.

 

[mainemike]

Shell Rotella T 5w-40 Synthetic

I chose it from endless reading on MUD, and the FAQ, and because my temp range in Maine is severe; I see -30F to 100+F. Depending on your geography it may not be the best choice, but so far it seems to make mine happy.

And if my 80 is happy... then I'm happy.


You've probably read this but for the benefit of all:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/79305-oil-recommendations-discussion-thread-faq.html

 

[cary]

It is covered in the FAQ, but synthetic is not thinner. Any oil of a given weight, whether it be Group I, II, III, IV, or V, will be the same thickness at operating temperature.

 

[Lockd97]

Follow your owner's manual for motor oil recommendations. If you want to use synthetic oil and your car is still under warranty, check with your local dealer before switching to synthetic oil (just to make sure you're covered with the switch)"

Obviously this guy doesn't know about the Magnusson/Moss Act.

 

[FirstToy]

chevron supreme from costco- cheap, high quality oil. syn is a waste of money on the cruiser imo. it's a cruiser!
i started w/ mobil 1 5/40 but it seeped from the lower main so I tried a thicker oil and it stopped.(i'm not saying syn causes leaks, just the weight) I came to my senses and use good dino oil now.

w/ an engine as well designed as the 1FZ and the tremendous oil reserve it has, I just do regular oil changes and put the money elsewhere. Just doing an oil change every 5K miles is 'overdoing it'! It's built like no other! It's got 8 liter capacity for a 4.5L engine! It's got a bulletproof engine design. The motor is not hard on oil.

spend the money on keeping the coolant system fresh or dinner w/ the woman. It will be a smarter use of your cash.

i have a turbo sedan that I use mobil 1 b/c of the high heat and small capacity.

 

[cruiserruf]

chevron supreme from costco- cheap, high quality oil. syn is a waste of money on the cruiser imo. it's a cruiser!
i started w/ mobil 1 5/40 but it seeped from the lower main so I tried a thicker oil and it stopped.(i'm not saying syn causes leaks, just the weight) I came to my senses and use good dino oil now.

w/ an engine as well designed as the 1FZ and the tremendous oil reserve it has, I just do regular oil changes and put the money elsewhere. Just doing an oil change every 5K miles is 'overdoing it'! It's built like no other! It's got 8 liter capacity for a 4.5L engine! It's got a bulletproof engine design. The motor is not hard on oil.

spend the money on keeping the coolant system fresh or dinner w/ the woman. It will be a smarter use of your cash.

i have a turbo sedan that I use mobil 1 b/c of the high heat and small capacity.

what weight do you use?

 

[FirstToy]

i would have to go check, it's 10/40 or 10/30... they have a couple choices at costco- and it's a really high quality oil. I think it is more than 50% cheaper than M1 too!

 

[cary]

Follow your owner's manual for motor oil recommendations. If you want to use synthetic oil and your car is still under warranty, check with your local dealer before switching to synthetic oil (just to make sure you're covered with the switch)"

Obviously this guy doesn't know about the Magnusson/Moss Act.

1) Nobody here is still under warranty,
2) Using a synthetic oil that is is the proper grade and meets the specifications set forth in the manual (whether it be a general spec such as API SM, or highly specific like VW 505.1, MB 229.5 or BMW LL-01), will never cause a warranty issue.

 

[Lockd97]

1) Nobody here is still under warranty,
2) Using a synthetic oil that is is the proper grade and meets the specifications set forth in the manual (whether it be a general spec such as API SM, or highly specific like VW 505.1, MB 229.5 or BMW LL-01), will never cause a warranty issue.

Exactly, I guess what I didn't say but was thinking is that whomever the quote was taken from didn't have a clue about the M/M Act.
Doesn't apply to the crowd here.

 

[cruiserruf]

1) Nobody here is still under warranty,
2) Using a synthetic oil that is is the proper grade and meets the specifications set forth in the manual (whether it be a general spec such as API SM, or highly specific like VW 505.1, MB 229.5 or BMW LL-01), will never cause a warranty issue.

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