Another LS Swap: L92 & 6l80e into a '94 LC (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Nov 13, 2010
Messages
93
Location
La Grande, OR
A few more pictures of the exhaust. Posted pics seemed to be more helpful to me than narrative when I put it together.

Over the rear axle. Hard to tell from this picture but I should have known better than to run it right over when there control arm attaches. I eventually moved it toward the midline after sustaining a small dent in the tubing from axle travel.
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Along the PS frame rail before the other side joins it
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Not much else to say about exhaust. I think I used a total of 6 hangers/insulators. The only Toyota one I repurposed was the last one supporting the tailpipe. I did use the Toyota brackets that had supported the exhaust and bolted the PS frame rail to support the muffler. Didn’t use the insulators – cut the brackets and welded new insulators on them. That allows me to remove the muffler without having to slide it forward or backward. Used a total of 5 exhaust clamps. Had to build it in pieces to be able to weld circumferentially.

One more thing on the exhaust... it's loud. I don't mind a little bubbling and gurgling from a V8 but when I get on it it's loud. Swung by the local muffler shop and it doesn't sound like there's a lot than can be done. The muffler that GM mated to that motor is way bigger than I have room for under the LC.
 
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Joined
Nov 13, 2010
Messages
93
Location
La Grande, OR
BUMP STOPS

My front bump stops have 2” extensions that came with the Slee lift kit. The driver’s side was fine when fully compressed.

I had to lengthen the bump stop 2 ½” on the passenger side. Ugh. There was simply no way around it. The first item to strike would be the oil pan on the pumpkin. The ATF cooler lines would be right behind the pan. I lengthened the bump stop by coupling a piece of 4” channel iron and ½” bar stock (while removing the Slee 2” extension)
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Joined
Nov 13, 2010
Messages
93
Location
La Grande, OR
TUNING

We're closing in on the end. Let me talk a little about programming as this was an area I knew nothing about. A friend had recommended Black Bear Performance. I looked into them a little and it seemed to fit the bill. The way they work is that you purchase from them an EFI Live handheld tuner and the license to program a single ECM. They will work with you to get the motor running and then tune to your liking. If you make modifications down the road they will continue to work with you to get it tuned. It's a one-time expense up front.

They were good to work with. A little undermanned but got the job done. I would use them again.
 
Joined
Jan 29, 2019
Messages
111
Location
Portland, Oregon
Appreciate you taking time to post this. So much great info!
 
Joined
Nov 13, 2010
Messages
93
Location
La Grande, OR
TRANSMISSION TUNING

Black Bear Performance could not tune the BCM. Finally had to come to terms with the fact that we were not going to get the features we wanted from it. Did a little more reading and discovered Jim Miller at Zero Gravity Performance in AZ. I explained what had been done and what I was looking for. The only disadvantage of working with him is that he has to have the TCM in hand. I pulled it and sent it to him. When it came back, we had two/sport mode and tap shifting enabled in the gate below "D". Great to work with.

Let's talk a little about tap shifting. First of all, it has to be enabled in the transmission (it is capable). You'll need two momentary switches that allow you to shift. I chose to use an antenna up/down button from a later model Landcruiser.

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Here is the wiring diagram you'll need to make tap shifting work. The 12V input is regulated 12V from BCM C1-17.
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Joined
Nov 13, 2010
Messages
93
Location
La Grande, OR
CODES

I have only one code that consistently pops up: U0100. It does not trip the Check Engine Light so it doesn't really bother me. Since we took the BCM out of the equation a year ago, that's the only code that comes up when checked with a reader.

One other thing... O/D Light flashes when driving. Looked into why and it’s an indication that “harness has been severed.” That’s actually kinda funny. After going through the EWD to find a way to disable it, I just decided to depin the wire in and wire out for that light (Plug E, Pins 8 & 9).
 
Joined
Nov 13, 2010
Messages
93
Location
La Grande, OR
HEATER HOSES

There are a couple of write ups talking about a bypass of some kind for this swap. I didn't do that and haven't had any issues. Was pretty simple. I did buy another "U" shaped tube from the junkyard that came off a wrecked 80 to make it work:
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Joined
Nov 13, 2010
Messages
93
Location
La Grande, OR
TACHOMETER

Dakota Digital unit SGI-100BT
Used Velcro to attach unit to the “Computer 4wheel drive control” module in the PS kick panel.
“Ignition” 12v keyed power
“Ground”
“Signal In” LS ECU tach signal wire. Pin 48 of J1 (has to be added)
“High Volt” output to Toyota tach. In my case, it’s a black wire in position 8 of plug “C” in the gauge cluster. Labeled & cut the wire. Soldered to a wire that was run across the dash to the Dakota box.
On the LS harness, wire added to PIN 48 of J1 for tach output
Had to play with input/output and fine adjustment on the Dakota Digital box a little to get it calibrated but it worked. Took a picture of the app screen with the parameters that correctly ran the tach.

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Joined
Jan 26, 2022
Messages
8
Location
Colorado
BUMP STOPS

My front bump stops have 2” extensions that came with the Slee lift kit. The driver’s side was fine when fully compressed.

I had to lengthen the bump stop 2 ½” on the passenger side. Ugh. There was simply no way around it. The first item to strike would be the oil pan on the pumpkin. The ATF cooler lines would be right behind the pan. I lengthened the bump stop by coupling a piece of 4” channel iron and ½” bar stock (while removing the Slee 2” extension)
View attachment 3171859
Where on the oil pan did it hit?
 
Joined
Nov 13, 2010
Messages
93
Location
La Grande, OR
I'm going to post some wiring info that will be helpful. This is how I set up my fuse blocks. The one on top is the original LC block. The one below is an aftermarket block. I will get to posting how we handled Cruise Control in the next week or two. Friend of mine has the pics...

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Joined
Nov 16, 2008
Messages
2
This is excellent. Thank you for sharing. I did a 6.2 swap on a 95 and are still working out the bugs. What did you need to do to keep the CDL working?
 
Joined
Nov 13, 2010
Messages
93
Location
La Grande, OR
I think if you do a search for "7 pin mod" you'll find your answer. Been a while but I'm pretty sure that'll take care of it. I did that years ago and the swap hasn't changed the way it functions.
 
Joined
Jun 9, 2020
Messages
165
Location
Seattle
Soo much good stuff on this writeup. I am at the wiring stage rn and despite looking at the FSM, I keep getting confused. So maybe you can help me with this:
The ingition switch has an IG1 and an IG2. I believe the LS harness should have a wire for the key to the on position, and then another wire that I would think goes to IG2. Here is a pick of the LX450 wiring diagram that I am thinking of.

Curious...how did you wire the ignition? Was thinking of using the fuse block under the dash...but what is interesting is that both IG1 and IG2 are powered at the On position.
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Joined
Nov 13, 2010
Messages
93
Location
La Grande, OR
Your diagram is a little different than mine. In my case, the IH1-9 pin was powered in crank and run. I used that to power the relays in post #90 (Trans Power, Keyed Power, and Fuel Pump). The "keyed power" relay then powered the gear display, tach/cruse, tank select, coil packs, injectors, ECM/TCM & O2 / MAF. The power wire Toyota had run to the stater solenoid was redirected to the Park / Neutral Safety relays (Post #92). I then ran a wire from those to the starter. Hope that makes sense and helps. The key thing about IH1-9 is that it has power in crank and run. I never had to dive into the actual ignition switch. The IH1 plug is above the glove box.
 
Joined
Jun 9, 2020
Messages
165
Location
Seattle
Your diagram is a little different than mine. In my case, the IH1-9 pin was powered in crank and run. I used that to power the relays in post #90 (Trans Power, Keyed Power, and Fuel Pump). The "keyed power" relay then powered the gear display, tach/cruse, tank select, coil packs, injectors, ECM/TCM & O2 / MAF. The power wire Toyota had run to the stater solenoid was redirected to the Park / Neutral Safety relays (Post #92). I then ran a wire from those to the starter. Hope that makes sense and helps. The key thing about IH1-9 is that it has power in crank and run. I never had to dive into the actual ignition switch. The IH1 plug is above the glove box.
Ahh. Interesting. I also realized my post was incorrect. You are correct about the power sequence.

I I need to go back to the ih1. I was looking under the steering wheel. Very tight there for sure.
 

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