Another high mileage 100 build (1 Viewer)

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maxamillion2345

Franken-80
Joined
Jan 16, 2012
Threads
40
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2,617
Location
Elko, NV
Edit: I bought a 99 with 268k on it and a handful of small issues - trying to sort through them now. Figured I’d keep documenting it here, if you want to call that a build...

Hello 100 series guys! Just sold my second 80, and thinking about ditching my 3rd gen 3RZ runner in favor of picking up a 100 series to daily/road trip/light trail duty. Ive had a number of Toyotas and mechanic for a living so I’m no stranger to fixing things, Ive rebuilt a few Toyota engines but... I’d prefer not to. I don’t mind baselining though.

So is looking at 100s with 200k +
foolish? My gut says 200k on a well maintained 4.7 is probably still reliable, but 250k is a little more than Id like. I wouldn’t mind paying a little more for less mileage but what I’m seeing is almost double for around 150k mile rigs.
 
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I’m at almost 275K with minimal issues. Maintenance and rust are the two big things for me on this (or most any) Series. I did have to replace a brake master assembly early on (at about 260K) for $1500. Lots of great info on here, I also had a 3RZ Taco with 300K before the LX, great truck but lack of power and refinement gave way to the 100. I would definitely take clean and well sorted over lower miles on a vehicle that is either rusty or less well cared for, but that’s just my take.
 
At that mileage so long that the timing belt, water pump and heater hose t's have been done and the radiator's condition is noted, you are more likely going to be dealing with steering rack and all the rubber bushing type parts needing replaced. My truck has 297k on it, ive only done about 1200 of those miles and after going around underneath it needs the following:
-Radiator Hoses
-Radiator is older
-Steering rack
-Power steering pump hoses
-Lower ball joint
-CV axle boots are looking long in the tooth
-Shocks, springs and probably t bars
-AC is busted

PO did the TB, WP and HHTs last year or so, so not worried.

So IMO its all the above to look out for.
 
I got mine with 279000. If you aren’t dealing with rust, you can do a fluid baseline and work your way through other things like the fuel pump, coil packs, brakes, etc as you have time and funds. I would personally prefer no rust and a good maintenance history to less miles with rust and no idea how it’s been cared for.
 
I’ve done/ replaced the following between 250K and 275K:

-Plugs
-Fuel Filter
-All ignition Coils
-Hub flanges
-Front wheel bearings, races, hardware, and seals
-Front Sway bar links
-AHC Flush
-Power steering pressure hose
-Brake Pads and hardware F&R
-All front differential mounts
-PCV valve and hose
-Valve cover gaskets and spark plug tube seals
-Fresh synthetic 75W90 and new crush washers for front diff, t case, and rear diff
-Hood struts
-Lift gate struts
-Console lid repair
-Headlight lens restoration
-Heater hoses and tees
-Accessory belt tensioner, idler pulley, and belt
-MAF sensor connector
-Throttle Body cleaning
-Coolant flush w/ LL pink Toyota coolant
-Instrument cluster “glass”, it was broken
-Cabin air filters
-Engine air filter
-5 oil changes w/ conventional 5W30
-Replaced booster/ master cylinder unit
-replaced most of the vacuum and emission hoses and clamps under the hood, still have a few to go.

Up next are new motor mounts, trans mount, “shock” bushings, front CABs, DBA rotors all the way around with fresh pads, AHC globes, and rear control arms. The radiator and hoses were new OE when I purchased the LX and the timing belt was 1 year and 20K old. The above member who mentioned rubber components needing to be replaced is 100% on the money, often times from age as much as mileage. Hopefully my list and the advice of others will give you some other things to consider in your search. Bear in mind, some of the things I have personally done were not out of necessity but more for peace of mind or preventative maintenance.
 
My family and I have had ridiculously good fortune with daily driving high mileage hundys. Low mileage hundys are well overrated.
 
bought mine with 275k. only issues where with improper maintenance or cheap parts used by PO.
IMO whether it's 150k or 250k you're going to want to do many of the same maintenance items. also i think age more than miles affects the rubber components so bushings will be in similar shape even if you pay double for "low miles"

the issues that can cause breakdowns can occur at 150 or 250k equally as well.
starter, timing belt, alternator etc. Id rather have the cheaper one and spend the extra doing the maintenance myself. you'd have a more reliable vehicle that way.
 
I purchased a 2001 2 years ago with 278,000 for $4500. I bought it knowing it needed (as in cords showing through tires/brake pad grinding against rotor) new tires and new pads/rotors.

Timing belt replacement was done at 241,000. Wheel bearings replaced 250,000.

I am now at 290,000 and so far things that I have purchased or replaced (that have needed it):
Muffler (rusty and rattling) - $100
Heater T's $20
New master key $25
Fuel Filter, Spark Plugs, oil, etc.

Things I have noticed will need replacing:
Upper and lower ball joints, tie rod ends, sway bar link rubbers are all cracked, still holding grease, but I plan to due a front end rebuild.

My leather interior is old, but luckily not cracked anywhere.

Valve cover gaskets are leaky. I did tighten them a hair which mostly fixed the problem, however I plan to replace the gaskets.


Overall, I have been very happy with it. I wouldnt hesitate making this purchase again. Especially after tightening the valve cover gaskets, it is extremely dry underneath. I do oil changes every 5000 and there is no noticable oil level drop in between changes.
 
Well well well

I would rather have a 2003-2005 over a 2006/2007 for reliability. And obviously any of those years over 1998-2002 for the a750f but prices are rough in the later years still.

IMO, also, the Lexus looks better and you can ditch the AHC when it breaks

And... Night View. If you have to ask, you're not ready.
 
My family and I have had ridiculously good fortune with daily driving high mileage hundys. Low mileage hundys are well overrated.
Despite the work needed that I listed, I agree with @BullElk. Any 20 year old vehicle with 250-300k miles will need work, period .
 
Well well well

I would rather have a 2003-2005 over a 2006/2007 for reliability. And obviously any of those years over 1998-2002 for the a750f but prices are rough in the later years still.

IMO, also, the Lexus looks better and you can ditch the AHC when it breaks

And... Night View. If you have to ask, you're not ready.

I mean I still have my 80, I just sold my other 80 hah.

Yeah I guess I’m not ready because I don’t know what Night View means.

I’ll keep looking around. I gotta say though I think I like the looks of the 100s better.
 
Picked my 02 up with 269k pretty cheap. Extremely clean for the miles and decent maintenance. Haven't done a ton to it. Will need TB/WP etc done as well as steering rack eventually and maybe other things but for now as long as it runs it's good. My sig has my lamestream build thread if you want more details.
 
What would be a fair price for a rust free 100 with 250+ on it?

Whats pretty cheap? I’m not in a hurry to buy but don’t see a lot of options looking from SL to Boise to Vegas to Central Valley - Northern CA
 
What Booster? The pressure pump and N2 accumulator?
47050-60043 is the part, the whole shoot and match. Toyota nomenclature is a booster assembly, it includes the accumulator, pump, modulator valve, controller, etc.. it’s a drop in unit, just needed to be bled.
 
Whats pretty cheap? I’m not in a hurry to buy but don’t see a lot of options looking from SL to Boise to Vegas to Central Valley - Northern CA

$5500. Got pretty lucky really. Have never seen a vehicle with this many miles in such good shape personally. As stated does need some larger repair items but have had it just over a year now, 278k, and the biggest "major" repair items have been alternator, power steering pump, and heater Ts. :meh:

Here's when I bought it to give some perspective on how far they can come. I had a vision when I bought it, it's fun when it comes together for cheap (CL wheels and tires baby!) Best of luck with your search. Don't be afraid of the high mileage, well maintained rigs.


20190308_101139.jpg



20200405_182908.jpg
 
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I would scope out the market in the next month or so, I see decent deals pop up every so often in the Norcal area in the $6-8k range which can usually be negotiated.
 
$5500. Got pretty lucky really. Have never seen a vehicle with this many miles in such good shape personally. As stated does need some larger repair items but have had it just over a year now, 278k, and the biggest "major" repair items have been alternator, power steering pump, and heater Ts. :meh:

Here's when I bought it to give some perspective on how far they can come. I had a vision when I bought it, it's fun when it comes together for cheap (CL wheels and tires baby!) Best of luck with your search. Don't be afraid of the high mileage, well maintained rigs.


View attachment 2289287


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Very clean! Nice!
 

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