Another high mileage 100 build (1 Viewer)

D21FJ60

I'll get to it
Joined
Apr 19, 2009
Messages
1,811
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Gainesville, VA
Different vendors make seat covers or you could find a parts truck adn get new ones but at that cost might as well just pay to have yours reupholstered.
LSEAT is one and theres another company cant remember the name, who made a thread asking for input for their seat leather.
I think OEM toyoa is still available but $$$$
Or just get some really nice fitted (wet okale, carhartt) seat covers and roll with that.
 

nukegoat

Should have bought a Jeep
SILVER Star
Joined
Apr 10, 2013
Messages
6,189
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San Jose, CA
Whats the best course of action with the seats? Ill start combing through threads but figured Id ask...
I'd install new leather on the fronts. Consider them like expensive seat covers. If you haven't done it, I consider you to be more mechanically inclined than me so you'll have no problem DIYing it.
 
Joined
Jun 29, 2018
Messages
239
Location
PNW
Air injection

What kind of reference or data is used for this?

OP, this has probably been said but miles don’t really matter.

Use & maintenance matter.

Long highway driving, clean fluids & mild climate this vehicle can drive forever.

Stop and go. Short drives. Not letting engine warm up. Still can go a long time.

I have one with 200k and it drives like new. I don’t think when it has 240k its going to drive any different or be less reliable. However if it were used in the streets in San Fran rather than freeway travels those 40k miles could lead to more breakdown.
 

nukegoat

Should have bought a Jeep
SILVER Star
Joined
Apr 10, 2013
Messages
6,189
Location
San Jose, CA
What kind of reference or data is used for this?

OP, this has probably been said but miles don’t really matter.

Use & maintenance matter.

Long highway driving, clean fluids & mild climate this vehicle can drive forever.

Stop and go. Short drives. Not letting engine warm up. Still can go a long time.

I have one with 200k and it drives like new. I don’t think when it has 240k its going to drive any different or be less reliable. However if it were used in the streets in San Fran rather than freeway travels those 40k miles could lead to more breakdown.
Tons. Google it. Here's a 31 page forum from t4r forums:

 

abuck99

SILVER Star
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Nov 8, 2015
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4,587
Location
ATL
Thanks guys!

Okay good, I assume they usually look brown and brittle on the outside but figured I’d double check. Figured the hose clamps could have been to address weak spring clamps, actually I think thats the case still — assuming thats why they just slid the spring clamps down.

I need to get under it and take stock of whats going on but in some cursory glances all looks well!
The heater T's might look good at the exterior junction - but where they typically go bad is under the hose- you might slip off one end at the feed line- (not return line- FWIW feed line heater T gets more cooked than return line T will give better indication of age).

The picture of the thermostat to water pump bypass- the O-ring is leaking and should be replaced. Doest look like pink coolant has been used however- or it'd be crusty. And if you go in to do that, replace the thermostat, have a good look at the radiator, maybe change the radiator cap (clean & test anyway) and a flush with some fresh coolant.
 

maxamillion2345

Franken-80
Joined
Jan 16, 2012
Messages
2,605
Location
Elko, NV
I pulled the thermostat housing off and replaced the oring, it was hard and cracked and covered in rtv, cleaned it all up and put it all back together and no leaks! Also cleaned up the throttle body. I do get a p1126 code from time to time but it comes and goes on it's own.

Timing belt is due in 20k miles if on a 90k interval as it was done at 200k and we’re at 268k now. That gives me some time to drive it and see what else it might need. Radiator was done at 258k but I'm planning on doing:

TB
Serpentine
TB and Serpentine Idlers
Water Pump
Rad hoses
Thermostat
Fan Clutch
Fan Bracket
Crank Seal
Cam Seals
Valve Cover Gasket
PCV grommet/valve
Evap and PCV hoses
Intake Gaskets
Alternator Brushes
Spark Plugs
Fuel Filter
Thinking starter contacts -- I don't have any documentation of starter ever having been replaced, but I only have history back to 173k.
 

BadReligion

SILVER Star
Joined
Aug 23, 2011
Messages
774
Location
Reno, NV
That's probably a good plan...run it for a bit and see what other issues pop up. I'd recommend adding the TB tensioner to the list, along with spark plug tube gaskets. Since you will have the intake manifold off for the intake gaskets, you might as well do the starter contacts. Having the manifold off also makes the VC gaskets very easy.


I pulled the thermostat housing off and replaced the oring, it was hard and cracked and covered in rtv, cleaned it all up and put it all back together and no leaks! Also cleaned up the throttle body. I do get a p1126 code from time to time but it comes and goes on it's own.

Timing belt is due in 20k miles if on a 90k interval as it was done at 200k and we’re at 268k now. That gives me some time to drive it and see what else it might need. Radiator was done at 258k but I'm planning on doing:

TB
Serpentine
TB and Serpentine Idlers
Water Pump
Rad hoses
Thermostat
Fan Clutch
Fan Bracket
Crank Seal
Cam Seals
Valve Cover Gasket
PCV grommet/valve
Evap and PCV hoses
Intake Gaskets
Alternator Brushes
Spark Plugs
Fuel Filter
Thinking starter contacts -- I don't have any documentation of starter ever having been replaced, but I only have history back to 173k.
 

maxamillion2345

Franken-80
Joined
Jan 16, 2012
Messages
2,605
Location
Elko, NV
That's probably a good plan...run it for a bit and see what other issues pop up. I'd recommend adding the TB tensioner to the list, along with spark plug tube gaskets. Since you will have the intake manifold off for the intake gaskets, you might as well do the starter contacts. Having the manifold off also makes the VC gaskets very easy.

I will definitely do the tensioner. I’m thinking I’ll buy the Aisin kit. I’ll do those with the valve covers for sure. Both valve covers are leaking, hoping the timing cover is not...
 

nukegoat

Should have bought a Jeep
SILVER Star
Joined
Apr 10, 2013
Messages
6,189
Location
San Jose, CA
Arguably the coils tend to go out, but I think given your mechanical aptitude, it's probably easier just to buy a few spares and carry them with you. If you're rolling in cash, swap 'em all now
 

maxamillion2345

Franken-80
Joined
Jan 16, 2012
Messages
2,605
Location
Elko, NV
Not sure if I can embed this or not but short video of my drive flanges, yikes... I’m assuming the splines in the shafts are toast too. Guess I’ll be tearing into the front end.


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maxamillion2345

Franken-80
Joined
Jan 16, 2012
Messages
2,605
Location
Elko, NV
Arguably the coils tend to go out, but I think given your mechanical aptitude, it's probably easier just to buy a few spares and carry them with you. If you're rolling in cash, swap 'em all now
I replaced one already with a denso and ordered two yec flamma coils to replace a no name parts house coil the PO had installed in Jan and another with a torn boot. Will probably replace the other 5 before too long but they are easy to swap if necessary.
 

maxamillion2345

Franken-80
Joined
Jan 16, 2012
Messages
2,605
Location
Elko, NV
Is this a factory skid? Thick formed plastic... more substantial than I’m used to seeing from Toyota, seems like theyre usually tin splash guards.
EA035BC7-EBD8-486C-B5B4-21E61BE38872.jpeg
 

maxamillion2345

Franken-80
Joined
Jan 16, 2012
Messages
2,605
Location
Elko, NV
So I wasn’t expecting this... but it seems like the passenger side axle and drive flange are in pretty decent shape but definitely have Some wear. Drivers side is toast.


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maxamillion2345

Franken-80
Joined
Jan 16, 2012
Messages
2,605
Location
Elko, NV
I don't believe my CVs to be OEM, or if they are they seem like they were rebooted or something... Either way, I ordered the Cardone HD CVs from Rock auto. I think with tax and shipping they were 180$ shipped.

I then ordered:
19031138066SEAL, OIL (FOR FRONT DIFFERENTIAL CARRIER)Toyota
29031147013OIL SEAL, FRONT DRIVE SHAFT, RH/LHToyota
39031147027OIL SEAL, FRONT DRIVE SHAFT, LHToyota
49021442030WASHER, CLAW (FOR FRONT AXLE HUB), RH/LHToyota
59021542025WASHER, FRONT WHEEL ADJUSTING LOCK, RH/LHToyota
64342260070GASKET, FRONT AXLE OUTER SHAFT FLANGE, RH/LHToyota
74342160060FLANGE, FRONT AXLE OUTER SHAFT, RH/LHToyota
84342335010CAP, FRONT AXLE HUB GREASE, RH/LHToyota
99052031005RING, DRIVE SHAFT SNAP, RH/LHToyota
109052031006RING, DRIVE SHAFT SNAP, RH/LHToyota
119052031007RING, DRIVE SHAFT SNAP, RH/LHToyota
129052031008RING, DRIVE SHAFT SNAP, RH/LHToyota
139052031009RING, DRIVE SHAFT SNAP, RH/LHToyota
144343660020GASKET, KNUCKLE SPINDLE OIL RETAINERToyota
159038135001BUSH (FOR STEERING KNUCKLE), RH/LHToyota
169031672001SEAL, OIL (FOR FRONT AXLE HUB INNER), RH/LHToyota

Hoping I won't need needle or wheel bearings but they'll get a good inspection.
 

maxamillion2345

Franken-80
Joined
Jan 16, 2012
Messages
2,605
Location
Elko, NV
Ordered front replacement leather from Lseat. Some 30mm spacers from Man a fre, turns out theyre in Las Vegas so thats cool. Some 555 lbjs from Cruiser Outfitters, and another door lock motor from ebay. 4/5 door locks are back to functioning. My god is it easier on these 100s, the 80 I had to solder the gears back on and solder on terminals for the motors. Much easier...
 
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maxamillion2345

Franken-80
Joined
Jan 16, 2012
Messages
2,605
Location
Elko, NV
Cardone hd cvs and new flanges are ridiculously tight but I did get them on there after a great deal of yelling at them.

I also installed new ball joints, lowers from cruiser outfitters and the uppers I got from dobinson with their UCAs. They want like 60$ to press them in which seems kind of pricey so I figured since I was doing lowers Id do uppers too. Well, what a huge pain. Really needed a press, this would have been easy at work but in trying to get it done at home with a ball joint press I fought each side for at least an hour. Lots of customs spacers later and I made both sides happen.

Bearings looked good, driver side bronze bushing fell out so I installed a new one but passenger looked fine and I decided to leave it be.

Weird cyclical hum I had before is now gone so thats a plus too.

Nice to have a freshened up front end, excluding LCA bushings...

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E5C3FF33-E178-4992-8026-2255EC9270B9.jpeg
 

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