Is there another way to make a blower motor reverse direction rather than switching the wires?
Another FJ62 AC Thread (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Boaty1303
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It’s a DC motor
Brushed motors should run backwards when polarity is reversed, but it may not be good for the motor, long term.
- Thread starter
- #5
Here is why I asked:
bought a FJ62 in may. The blower was pushing adequate air through the vents, it just was not cold.
Rather than self diagnose, I took it to a local mechanic’s shop. The head guy checked out my FJ62 before I bought it and he and I got along well.
That shop charged me $200 to run diagnostics on the AC system, but said they never touched the blower motor. When I got the vehicle back, air was barely leaking out of the vents at full power on the blower. The shop then said for $400 they would replace the blower motor.
I decided to do this myself with a genuine replacement part for $60. When I removed the motor from the housing, and turned the fan on, I noticed that it spun clockwise (a direction that would not produce any air). I inspected the wiring and it appeared they had been reversed, I just could not tell how recently. This motor had been replaced before.
I reversed the wires and everything works great now. But the Shop had to have made this switch. They say they did not touch the motor, but I am trying to figure out if that is true or not.
bought a FJ62 in may. The blower was pushing adequate air through the vents, it just was not cold.
Rather than self diagnose, I took it to a local mechanic’s shop. The head guy checked out my FJ62 before I bought it and he and I got along well.
That shop charged me $200 to run diagnostics on the AC system, but said they never touched the blower motor. When I got the vehicle back, air was barely leaking out of the vents at full power on the blower. The shop then said for $400 they would replace the blower motor.
I decided to do this myself with a genuine replacement part for $60. When I removed the motor from the housing, and turned the fan on, I noticed that it spun clockwise (a direction that would not produce any air). I inspected the wiring and it appeared they had been reversed, I just could not tell how recently. This motor had been replaced before.
I reversed the wires and everything works great now. But the Shop had to have made this switch. They say they did not touch the motor, but I am trying to figure out if that is true or not.
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Did you have to cut/splice wires to replace the blower motor? If so that means it had been replaced at some point with a universal one. They original have a plastic connector housing that can only connect one way, just like every electrical connection on the truck
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- #7
Yes, I did have to re-splice wires to connect motor. The old motor had been spliced in (makes me believe the blower motor had been replaced before.). Keep in mind this is an ‘89 FJ62. But, the where the splice had happened, seemed to be new.
The more I think about it, the more I believe the shop was up to no good. Now there is a loud buzzing when ever I turn on the AC. After some research, that can be caused by adding too much refrigerant. This shop should have known better. There are too many issues coming from something they said was simple.
anyone know how to bleed excess refrigerant?
The more I think about it, the more I believe the shop was up to no good. Now there is a loud buzzing when ever I turn on the AC. After some research, that can be caused by adding too much refrigerant. This shop should have known better. There are too many issues coming from something they said was simple.
anyone know how to bleed excess refrigerant?
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Yeah, someone replaced the blower motor and had the wires backwards. That’s why it was spinning the wrong way.
as for bleeding off excess refrigerant… find your charge port and use a small screwdriver.. hold you breath
as for bleeding off excess refrigerant… find your charge port and use a small screwdriver.. hold you breath
as for bleeding off excess refrigerant… find your charge port and use a small screwdriver.. hold you breath
I would buy a gauge set (or some gauge device) and check pressures before bleeding.
Turn off the engine and let it sit 20 min so the high and low sides are equal. Wear googles - refrigerant in the eyes is no good. Bleed slowly, and if the valve starts spraying oil, try bleeding from the other valve. You don't want to let a lot of oil out of the system.
I would buy a gauge set (or some gauge device) and check pressures before bleeding.
Turn off the engine and let it sit 20 min so the high and low sides are equal. Wear googles - refrigerant in the eyes is no good. Bleed slowly, and if the valve starts spraying oil, try bleeding from the other valve. You don't want to let a lot of oil out of the system.
You can always spring for the Harbor Freight gauge/hose set, which is adequate, if not exquisite. You really should monitor both high and low side pressures while the system is operating, and that gives you the best picture of system performance. Gauges from cans like that only attach to the low side of the system.
You're risking frostbite on your fingers and oil on everything. Use a set of gauges where you can control how much you bleed off. Besides, you really want to know what the pressures are before taking any action.
Hi, Use gauges and do it correctly or hire someone who can. Too much taken out and it won’t cool correctly. Mike
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- #18
Ok sports fans…
I ordered a set of gauges and hoses. When I first got everything hooked up to my system, I noticed that the low pressure side was reading 120 PSI, but the high pressure side was way low. I bled off the low pressure side back to 30 PSI, and thus then found that I now have no cool air anymore. I drove it around for about an hour.
I let it sit for a few hours, watched the US Open, and then went and hooked up the Gauges again. Here is what they read:
I ordered a set of gauges and hoses. When I first got everything hooked up to my system, I noticed that the low pressure side was reading 120 PSI, but the high pressure side was way low. I bled off the low pressure side back to 30 PSI, and thus then found that I now have no cool air anymore. I drove it around for about an hour.
I let it sit for a few hours, watched the US Open, and then went and hooked up the Gauges again. Here is what they read:
I think that now there's not enough refrigerant in the system. The gauges are definitely hooked up correctly-not reversed?
