Another FJ60 hesitation/stutter/hard to start when warm thread

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Perhaps it’s a combination of things such as my 2f (cityracer) carb not being sufficiently leaned out along with the lack of a functional carb fan but wanted the MUD experts to weigh in.

Been daily driving my 60 for the past month without a single issue. The only thing that has changed is the weather. Temperatures here jumped up to 90 plus degrees for the first time since I’ve had it up and running. Last evening was coming home with the wife and the rig was running rather well at speed so I ran the rpms up to about just over 3k on the interstate for about 3 miles. Took my exit and the truck starts sputtering and cutting out. Won’t idle at all but attempts to stay running with the choke pulled. Pull off the road and it dies. Ended up leaving it there overnight (bc I’m sure I flooded it out of frustration). Went back this morning and it drove home and then to work just fine. Had to run across town at lunch (about 93*). It tried to hesitate and stumble but evened out and made it to my lunch appointment. Came out an hour later and could not get it to fire up despite it trying to turn over.
 
My truck has had the carb fan plug come loose. I felt it even in a 30* ambient hot restart.

I’d start there.

Are you starting it foot to the floor on the accelerator for a hot restart? That and not pumping the gas on a hot start make a huge difference for me.
 
Agreed w/ the above comments. Why is your fan not working? I’ve got a cooling fan relay (passenger side kick panel), it’s bunk but the solder points can be reflowed. I got lucky and found a good used one when I came to realize mine was toast. That was awhile back. And when did you go cityracer? Somewhere along the way I missed that!
 
The original carb had a Hot Idle Compensation system that would lean out the mixture at hot idle to improve idle when engine and ambient air gets real hot. A functioning carburetor fan is almost mandatory to ensure an easy start when engine is hot.

Noted. If getting the carb fan back to functioning doesn't fix it, I may have to look at adding back the HIC.

Are you starting it foot to the floor on the accelerator for a hot restart? That and not pumping the gas on a hot start make a huge difference for me.

That's usually where I begin but after a few failed attempts, I start seeing red, stop thinking, and end up worsening the situation out of frustration.

Agreed w/ the above comments. Why is your fan not working? I’ve got a cooling fan relay (passenger side kick panel), it’s bunk but the solder points can be reflowed. I got lucky and found a good used one when I came to realize mine was toast. That was awhile back. And when did you go cityracer? Somewhere along the way I missed that!

Not really sure. I grounded it out nearly a year ago and it was functional but replaced the manifolds and it hasn't worked since (likely where the problem lies). Dome fan intact and Fan works when I hotwire it.

Went with Cityracer after I couldn't get my OEM carb or the other one I purchased to run properly. Moving to Denver in a month which should set me up for s different set of altitude issues to consider.
 
Alright, I’m need of help bc I’m getting lost trying to read the wiring diagram.

Above is the timer relay which looked ok by me.

Components:
M4 fuse checks out
Dome fuse functional
Thermosistor wire grounded with continuity checked out ok
Hotwiring carb fan, still works

So to me it looks like it has to be in the wiring. Keep trying to find a commonality between this and my heater blower motor not functioning but I can’t and am resolved to think i have 2 separate issues that I can’t figure out.

0ABCCEBB-60DD-4FF1-B08D-A64E78E3463E.jpeg


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Your board look old pretty burned but I’m no expert. I’ve got my old one that isn’t nearly as ugly. Want it?
 
Noted. If getting the carb fan back to functioning doesn't fix it, I may have to look at adding back the HIC.



That's usually where I begin but after a few failed attempts, I start seeing red, stop thinking, and end up worsening the situation out of frustration.



Not really sure. I grounded it out nearly a year ago and it was functional but replaced the manifolds and it hasn't worked since (likely where the problem lies). Dome fan intact and Fan works when I hotwire it.

Went with Cityracer after I couldn't get my OEM carb or the other one I purchased to run properly. Moving to Denver in a month which should set me up for s different set of altitude issues to consider.
Is your temp sensor on the hardpipe from the exhaust pcv still attached? Later (at work now) I can get you pics of how I cut mine off and wired it a better way. Or @Robert Franzke didnt you add sweet pics not long by ago on another’s post regarding the carb fan wiring?
 
Your board look old pretty burned but I’m no expert. I’ve got my old one that isn’t nearly as ugly. Want it?

Is there a way to test it? I'd be glad to pay whatever you want for yours if I knew mine was in fact the culprit. I'll start reading on reflowing solder as well since I have zero knowledge as to this process.

Is your temp sensor on the hardpipe from the exhaust pcv still attached? Later (at work now) I can get you pics of how I cut mine off and wired it a better way. Or @Robert Franzke didnt you add sweet pics not long by ago on another’s post regarding the carb fan wiring?

Fairly certain the temp sensor is gone, but I purchased a replacement a while back just never installed it b/c it was functioning fine just grounding the wire to the fender.

Got a little manic a while ago and just ripped out the instrument cluster and started digging for one of the elusive grounding junctions that @Output Shaft refers to in this post here. Keep trying to think that the lack of carb fan and heater blower are connected. Even went back to my white fusible link which looks like garbage but still somehow has continuity to the alternator.

White Fusible link.JPG


butt connector?.JPG
 
Your 100% sure that little L shaped bracket and the tiny sensor are gone off the hard pcv line? Like I said, I’ll get you a shot if someone else doesn’t pipe in before me. I’ll be home after 4.
 
I had my cabin fan, carburetor fan, and headlights go out. Also had my turn signals and hazards screw up. The problem was a burned ground junction behind the dash (I've mentioned this before in other threads)
 
Your 100% sure that little L shaped bracket and the tiny sensor are gone off the hard pcv line? Like I said, I’ll get you a shot if someone else doesn’t pipe in before me. I’ll be home after 4.

Don’t have my other manifold handy but I’m pretty sure it’s not there. Felicity, don’t hold out on getting someone their prn pain meds trying to help me. I do appreciate it in all seriousness though.

A81701AE-294C-4058-92A3-2DFD1FC2207E.jpeg
 
Don’t have my other manifold handy but I’m pretty sure it’s not there. Felicity, don’t hold out on getting someone their prn pain meds trying to help me. I do appreciate it in all seriousness though.

View attachment 1985841
It’s not ON the manifold. It’s on the hard line where the evap pipe goes into the intake and comes back out as a hardline to the exhaust end and then up to the pcv pipe. I’m so not explaining it well!
The L shaped bracket is welded to the skinny section of the pcv pipe. It has to be cut off, filed then the two holes on the bracket fit perfectly to two threaded holes on the intake in the same area.
 
This is what the L shaped bracket looks like and this is where we all attach it.

0318FC61-338E-4BD1-9835-DBAA90D5D283.jpeg
 
So w/ those photos @Rube, you absolutely don’t have the sensor? If you want my old cooling relay you can have it but I know it’s not working because as soon as I plugged in the one I have now my fan began to work.
 

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