Another failed brake booster thread (2 Viewers)

[Mchodl]

Just picked up a 2002 LX 470 with 196,000 miles on it down in Florida. Paid $21k (steep, I know. It’s very clean though) and got the abs, and brake lamps with the buzzer the day I got it home to Ohio. Definitely not what I wanted but it seems to be a fairly common wear item on these models. On cold starts the abs booster pump will cycle off and on then the warning lamps and buzzers pop on. I can let it sit running for a few minutes and it’ll eventually fill up and drive fine. As the motor is a wear item, I’m not gonna risk a used one so I picked up a new brake booster pump and accumulator p/n 47070-60010 from camelback Toyota for around $1k with overnight shipping. Ill throw it in and update. Good to be back with fellow Toyota owners again.

 

[94SRUNNER]

Hi. Welcome and nice rig. Where are you in Ohio?

There are several good threads regarding the brake booster on Mud. Search and you find.

I would also suggest you check out the 100 Series Facebook groups ("UZJ100" and "Land Cruiser 100 & LX470 Owners Group (English)") and not that you will need him now, but there is a FB group member named Andy Le. He rebuilds them and has a good reputation. He also has an eBay store, but I can't find his eBay user name at the moment.

 

[Mchodl]

Hi. Welcome and nice rig. Where are you in Ohio?

There are several good threads regarding the brake booster on Mud. Search and you find.

I would also suggest you check out the 100 Series Facebook groups ("UZJ100" and "Land Cruiser 100 & LX470 Owners Group (English)") and not that you will need him now, but there is a FB group member named Andy Le. He rebuilds them and has a good reputation. He also has an eBay store, but I can't find his eBay user name at the moment.

Thanks. I’m in Northwest Ohio for now. I’ve read every thread on here about the booster issue too. Tons of great info for sure. I’ll try to find the eBay listing too, wouldn’t hurt to have a spare unit around.

 

[Mchodl]

ABS booster pump and accumulator p/n 47070-60010 solved my issue. I firmly believe the extreme corrosion at both the abs module and the booster motor were the root cause of the motor failure. Excessive resistance over time causing increased wear on the actual motor. This truck has virtually no rust anywhere but those screws were absolutely destroyed. The entire master cylinder comes out in a matter of minutes. Swapping the new booster is easy and the reinstall is no trouble at all. I did a brake system bleed per FSM documents I found here and all is good to go. Pump cycles on for 30ish seconds at startup now. Discovered some pretty loose front wheel bearings, the steering rack bushings are totally gone and there’s a small coolant leak somewhere. I think I’ll start with the bearings and find the coolant leak when I throw a new belt and water pump on it in the next few weeks.

 

[tshandonay]

I just pulled mine out today for the same failure. Corrosion on my terminals was not quite as bad as that but not great either. 99 with 270k. Brake fluid was dripping from somewhere as well, fuel line is corroded and wet just below so I've got that to figure out too. Very close to a full on leak or spray.

I'm not sure yet if I'll go with new.....been spending a lot of $ on car parts lately. I need to find the guy that rebuilds them.

 

[uHu]

....but those screws were absolutely destroyed. ...

Corroded screws are typical for overfilled reservoirs, like in your second pic. Make sure to read the fill level specs, and note that most (dealers') service centres don't know how.

 

[menancyandsam]

Are those corroded screws accessible to visually check without pulling the booster/motor.
And can you point to where they are on the vehicle, having a hard time discerning their location?

 

[Ayune]

Are those corroded screws accessible to visually check without pulling the booster/motor.
And can you point to where they are on the vehicle, having a hard time discerning their location?

They’re underneath the booster pointing downward under a round black rubber boot with motor wires coming out. You’ll need a mirror to inspect them after pulling back the boot.

 

[menancyandsam]

They’re underneath the booster pointing downward under a round black rubber boot with motor wires coming out. You’ll need a mirror to inspect them after pulling back the boot.

Seems inspeecting theses conections are pretty importantant. Without removing the booster, can the screws be removed to clean up and maybe put some grease on them to prevent corrosion.

 

[Mchodl]

Seems inspeecting theses conections are pretty importantant. Without removing the booster, can the screws be removed to clean up and maybe put some grease on them to prevent corrosion.

If the screws are corroded this is not a job you’ll be able to do with the booster installed. Requires good drill bits and a lot of patience to get them off. The other end of the wires go into the abs module and you don’t wanna crack that.

 

[saudi]

If the screws are corroded this is not a job you’ll be able to do with the booster installed. Requires good drill bits and a lot of patience to get them off. The other end of the wires go into the abs module and you don’t wanna crack that.

Really helpful article

 

[Ayune]

Seems inspeecting theses conections are pretty importantant. Without removing the booster, can the screws be removed to clean up and maybe put some grease on them to prevent corrosion.

Filling the boots with grease at the factory would’ve helped...

 

[Mchodl]

Filling the boots with grease at the factory would’ve helped...

I don’t understand why Toyota decided to not go with a standard high current connector on the booster pump.