Another CDL mod.....homemade, cheap, and retro looking

[xingji]

This is my first contribution to mud, so please go easy on me.

I don't think any one has posted info on this.

This is just a quick writeup for a different approach to the typical CDL mod.

Initial intention: avoid trading many for a Toyota switch
Vehicle: 97' LX450
Mats needed: 1 SPDT switch, and some typical electrical work stuff
Time needed: 30mins with many repeats of step#6 included

Cost for parts: $1.96 for the switch, got it on sale from RadioShack

The final result looks something like this. Details to follow.

 

[PDoyle]

Nice!

 

[retrofive]

Nice Kinda digging the retro look

 

[xingji]

This is a brief summary of what I did step-by-step. Disclaimer: "7-pin" in this and following posts DO NOT refer to the "7-pin mod"; "7-pin" in this case solely refers to the 7th pin in the CDL wiring.

1. Open up the front control panel and locate your CDL wiring harness (see pic1 below)
2. Move the security indicator to the lower left part of the panel
3. Pull the CDL terminator/short, and cut the yellow wire in half (note: it connects 7-pin to 10-pin)
4. Crimp on female harnesses on both sides
5. Insert an additional wire into Position 8 (see pic 2) and add another female harness to the free end.
6. Take a standard cover and drill a hole to accommodate the switch
7. Plug all three wires into the order shown in the pic 2.
8. Test the switch and enjoy
9. Put everything back together and enjoy more


Pic1: stolen from 98 Snake Eater's thread. It shows the CDL wiring and the terminator
Pic2: It shows the wiring order to the switch
Pic3: My CDL in "ON" position and CDL indicator and ABS warning "ON". Picture taken while in 4H for Xfer case.

 

[xingji]

This post is for those of you who wish to know the wiring in more detail. Feel free to ignore.


As you can see there are 5 different wires inserted into the CDL plug. The only information given in the wiring manual was 7-10 short achieved by the Terminator. (see pic 1)

However, most people on mud have found that the Hazard switch works just fine for the CDL. The wiring diagram for the Haz switch (pic 2) shows OFF position connects 7-pin to 10-pin, and one of the connections for ON position was 7-pin to 10-pin.

So the way this works is very simple, CDL is ON with 7-pin is connected to 8-pin; CDL is OFF when 7-pin is connected to the 10-pin. Hence all we need is a SPDT switch.

For those of you who don't know, SPDT stands for Single Pole Double Throw. This switch allows for two connections between 3 cables.

Based on the 7-8=ON and 7-10=OFF, we need to have 7-pin connected to the middle of the switch, 8-pin and 10-pin on the extremes of the switch.

Voila, we have our home made CDL switch and one more reason to enjoy more .

Cheers

 

[UCBerzerkeley]

props man. i am way familiar with wiring car audio components, but that stuff still scares me. i payed many for my switch, but am happy

 

[cruzer971]

Good job on the wiring, but that switch looks ugly to me. Maybe a black switch would have looked better? I am just glad that I grabbed the CDL switch out of my '92 when I totalled it. It fit perfectly in the '93.

 

[xingji]

lol, I wanted a big black flap switch before, but just couldn't pass on the price tag

 

[cloudvig]

Hi xingji,
Excelent work, but I wonder why your Homemade CDL is so diferent of the others that I have found:
Slee - Pin 7 Mod for CDL (Toyota 80 Series Land Cruiser)

Does the 7pin CDL is in the front center panel?

Does anybody else have installed this solution?

I really want it, is a very simple procedure. Where can I buy a Black switch?

Regards,

 

[retrofive]

Hi xingji,
Excelent work, but I wonder why your Homemade CDL is so diferent of the others that I have found:
Slee - Pin 7 Mod for CDL (Toyota 80 Series Land Cruiser)

Does the 7pin CDL is in the front center panel?

Does anybody else have installed this solution?

I really want it, is a very simple procedure. Where can I buy a Black switch?

Regards,

Welcome

First off the CDL switch is one piece of the puzzle, the 7pin mod is the second. 2 different things, but often done at the same time.

They're 2 styles of CDL switches that are factory OEM.
91-92 came with them stock IIRC. These are the "curved" dash p-n-p switches. 93+ the harness is in the dash but no switch. 95+ with the dash being different have a flat switch.

All models can use a hazard and IIRC other switches.

The OG poster maded a alt to a factory switch (nice job BTW) that you can purchase from any auto store for a couple bucks.

I opted to install a 91 curved switch in mine. $25 from cruiserpartsn.net.

 

[tblume]

modified hazard switch here, just scraped of the triangle and stuck a 'CDL' label on the newly translucent button. (no light btw fwiw )

free from a 'pick-a-part' yard

 

[xingji]

The switch achieves the exact same result as the "CDL switch" (or hazard switch) you buy from vendors. It allows you to engage CDL in 4H.

As others have said, 7pin mod is to disable the auto-on CDL in 4L. It is something different.

As the disclaimer said (in post #4), the "7th pin" mentioned in my posts is purely a coincidence, it simply refers to the 7th pin in the CDL plug.

 

[72rockcruiser]

Cool. But your step 6 is my step 1!

 

[HntWhtTail]

Does the switch have to be rated for amperage or anything like that, I have a push button valet switch from a no longer installed car alarm. Since it is not being used could I use it? The button just does on and off I think I will pull it out and look

 

[HntWhtTail]

So I pulled the switch, and tested the wires for continuity when pressed in "on" gray and black wires are connected, when out gray and center post no wire currenty attached are contected. So If I am reading right if I connect the gray wire to 7, black to 8 and center to 10 I should have a working cdl switch all that would be left is to do 7 pin mod in driver kick panel. not sure what makes it light up, red wire seems to do nothing as does blue

 

[xingji]

There is no real amp rating requirement since everything is controlled by the relay, the button sends a signal to the relay. I believe once the signal is sent, there is no more current through the switch.

 

[tblume]

whatever nominal current through the switch will be just a signal to the relay; relay will carry any load as it is designed to do. if you get a wild hair to measure this, remember to put your VOM in series and change the red lead at the unit to the 'Amps' plug..... ask me how I know

 

[xingji]

So I pulled the switch, and tested the wires for continuity when pressed in "on" gray and black wires are connected, when out gray and center post no wire currenty attached are contected. So If I am reading right if I connect the gray wire to 7, black to 8 and center to 10 I should have a working cdl switch all that would be left is to do 7 pin mod in driver kick panel. not sure what makes it light up, red wire seems to do nothing as does blue

Grey = 7, black = 8, center = 10 works for sure.

The blue and red are probably for the light. The switch itself doesnt really control the light. What happens is once the "ON" signal is sent to the CDL relay (or when u turn on ur headlights), the power for light should be supplied to one of the other wires (see Pic 1 in post 2), and another should be ground. As for which one, I never tested. I couldn't find the scheme in my wiring book either.

My guess is the top two pins, one of them is likely black (aka ground), the other supply the positive voltage.

So use a volt meter and let us know

Edit: the color scheme for LX450 should be green for +volt, and White with green line for ground, not sure what color it is for your ride

 

[xingji]

I'm so glad to see someone is benefiting from my little (and only) contribution to mud, lol

 

[retrofive]

I'm so glad to see someone is benefiting from my little (and only) contribution to mud, lol

Thank you for contrib for sure.