Another Ca smog fail thread

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I searched and found some info but the word "CO" is left out of the search so I thought I'd post up. If you can't help don't worry about it.

1986 FJ60, 253K all vacuum and smog equip intact. Runs pretty good.
Running 34" swampers with stock gears. (not sure if this matters)
Smog pump and cat replaced 2 years ago when I failed then (still failed, replaced a cracked hose to the air cleaner that the mech. missed and it squeeked by)

I recently replaced my plugs, air filter and oil.

My choke light stays lit sometimes after it's been pushed in and I was thinking that perhaps my choke is stuck a little resulting in the rich mix. How do I check for that?

I was planning on doing a valve adjust soon just because they are noisy and I was reading about it and thought it might be worth checking out. Could doing a valve adjust help my CO% in this situation?

Any advise or direction would be helpful.
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2mbb

SILVER Star
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all the 2F engines in the FJ60's have the same smog set up, so the 1981 manual is fine.

The low residual oxygen level indicates to me that your air pump may not be up to snuff, or another component failure is preventing air from being injected into the exhaust.
 
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Cool, thanks. I've been looking at that emissions manual. It all looks familiar. Complicated but it's all the same stuff.

My float bowl is full of fuel at idle so I'm going to look into fixing that.
Also I hear and see a exhaust leak at the back end of the muffler where the outlet comes out of the can. Can this affect these smog numbers.
 

Dynosoar

Slightly Disturbed
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x2 I suspect air pump / AI system failure. based on the almost non existent residual o2.


Dynosoar:zilla:
 
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Take that ABV apart and remove all the old busted up smog pump vanes that's probably in there preventing the valves from working properly......:D
 
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Take that ABV apart and remove all the old busted up smog pump vanes that's probably in there preventing the valves from working properly......:D

I did a search about this and I think I 'm going to try and get it out and apart today. Hopefully it does have a bunch of crap in it and I can clean it out and get the system working again.
 
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Does anyone know what I can use instead of the OEM air pump hoses? The one that goes from the front of the air cleaner down to the air pump is kinked in a couple places. This is a 1" heater hose from Napa. Stock is not available. Not sure if this is affecting my smog issue but checking the hoses and vacuum lines is the first step in the manual.
 
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I tried the denatured alcohol just to get it to pass for now and It failed again. This time it's the NO ppm. Went through the roof while it lowered my other numbers.
I know I still need to fix these problems under the hood for the good of my Cruiser but I just really need to get it registered. Frustrating.
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I tried the denatured alcohol just to get it to pass for now and It failed again. This time it's the NO ppm. Went through the roof while it lowered my other numbers.
I know I still need to fix these problems under the hood for the good of my Cruiser but I just really need to get it registered. Frustrating.

Although over a half year ago by now, what was the outcome? NOX is usually too much ignition advance and mostly EGR related.

Here's mine, look at the HC & CO!! and all that with an defective EGR as it later turned out!
Smog check data only 08-26-11.jpg
 
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My 2 cents; I am not an expert for CO values & such... but my 1983 FJ60 just passed smog tests in Phoenix with flying colors - and regular fuel & normal timing. I had failed miserably 2 months ago, even after adding a full gallon of denaturalized alchool (all smog values way off chart).

So here was my take:
- Ordered a carb rebuild kit from Napa and rebuilt it myself (around $40 for parts)
- Ordered about 40' of red silicone tubing, sat with the emission's manual, and replaced all vacuum lines
one by one (3 were just dangling, 4 were crossed)
- Ordered a new Cat from SummitRacing - direct bolt on (so $140 + an hour to swap)

I then passed emissions with flying colors, and ran so much better. My 2F has all original emission components, and I'm at about 164k miles.

After the steps above, I then adjusted my valves... 4 were way loose and noisy, while 2 were extremely tight and might even have cause loss of compression on 2 cylinders. Now engine is much quieter, and running even better.

Again, just my 2 cents
 
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I love to read the success stories. Is "bad EGR" a bad EGR valve?

My dizzy has a bad primary advance diaphram.

Merriam-Webster

Definition of BAD

1
a
: failing to reach an acceptable standard : poor <a bad repair job>


I wouldn't worry too much about your primary advance, little effect on performance of this tractor engine....

As for EGR; bad can be from cracked Vac hose to defective modulator or EGR valve. In my case the EGR didn't open at all. As it turned out the hose was clogged with some gunk. Still passed though (If you know what to do)
 
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My 2 cents; I am not an expert for CO values & such... but my 1983 FJ60 just passed smog tests in Phoenix with flying colors - and regular fuel & normal timing. I had failed miserably 2 months ago, even after adding a full gallon of denaturalized alchool (all smog values way off chart).

So here was my take:
- Ordered a carb rebuild kit from Napa and rebuilt it myself (around $40 for parts)
- Ordered about 40' of red silicone tubing, sat with the emission's manual, and replaced all vacuum lines
one by one (3 were just dangling, 4 were crossed)
- Ordered a new Cat from SummitRacing - direct bolt on (so $140 + an hour to swap)

I then passed emissions with flying colors, and ran so much better. My 2F has all original emission components, and I'm at about 164k miles.

After the steps above, I then adjusted my valves... 4 were way loose and noisy, while 2 were extremely tight and might even have cause loss of compression on 2 cylinders. Now engine is much quieter, and running even better.

Again, just my 2 cents

New CAT is definitely good as they gradually loose their effectiveness. I got a new CAT too and the results show!
 

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