Another battery question - deep cycle health (1 Viewer)

[ethernectar]

So my deep cycle isnt holding a charge. (Haven’t been driving the truck very often.)

I recall there’s an issue with Toyota alternators not fully topping off the cell but couldn’t find the tread for the adaptor/device that solves the issue.

I’m running a national luna controller/display but it may be on its way out as well. Acting a bit weird.

Hoping for more trails in ‘22. The last few months have been rough with some family things going on with the wife’s side.

 

[Sandroad]

A battery on it's way out might be causing odd things with the controller/display unit. Get a new battery in there and see if that helps. I suggest a standard flooded deep cycle battery unless you have need for another type.

From your description of low use, not holding a charge is probably due to sulfation. The sulfur in the solution crystalizes out on the lead plates and becomes hardened. No real fix.

What type of battery? If it's the AGM type it may not receive a high enough voltage from the alternator to fully charge. Others on here will chime in with the diode fix, if that's the case in a '14. Not fully charging will also lead to sulfating.

All things considered, from your post so far, I bet a new deep cycle flooded lead-acid battery will be the fix. Of course, if the National Luna unit has failed, that's another R&R track, but get the battery first.

 

[ethernectar]

A battery on it's way out might be causing odd things with the controller/display unit. Get a new battery in there and see if that helps. I suggest a standard flooded deep cycle battery unless you have need for another type.

From your description of low use, not holding a charge is probably due to sulfation. The sulfur in the solution crystalizes out on the lead plates and becomes hardened. No real fix.

What type of battery? If it's the AGM type it may not receive a high enough voltage from the alternator to fully charge. Others on here will chime in with the diode fix, if that's the case in a '14. Not fully charging will also lead to sulfating.

All things considered, from your post so far, I bet a new deep cycle flooded lead-acid battery will be the fix. Of course, if the National Luna unit has failed, that's another R&R track, but get the battery first.

It’s an AGM cell, but that charging issue sounds right. Do you recall any posts about the diode fix?

 

[RET2]

It’s an AGM cell, but that charging issue sounds right. Do you recall any posts about the diode fix?

Here ya go, works in Tacomas also.

The NorthStar AGM Battery + Voltage Booster Upgrade

The NorthStar AGM Battery + Voltage Booster Upgrade This thread covers upgrading to the best AGM battery available and modifying the voltage regulator...

www.tacomaworld.com

 

[TeCKis300]

The diode solution is suspect. It may seem to fix part of the charging issue, but it also exacerbates the other challenge of using AGMs underhood. As you're in SoCal, summers can get hot. AGMs don't like heat underhood. Combine that with higher charge voltages, leads to electrolyte boiling and off-gassing. AGMs are also known as Valve Regulated Sealed Lead Acid (VRLA) batteries. Ultimately again leading to premature failure.

It comes down to the fact that the stock electrical system and alternator have a charge profile setup for standard flooded lead acid batts. That's going to be the right type of starting battery for longest life.

 

[ethernectar]

Thanks guys. So should I just suck it up and put a new agm deep cycle and just expect it to last a couple years or is there a different type of deep cycle that would be better. Will also keep looking for that booster thread…

 

[TeCKis300]

Yes, your battery is toast and you'll need a new battery of whatever type you decide.

This may be another option if you were so inclined. There's some high quality deep cycle flooded lead acids that have some of the advantages of AGM without the compatibility drawbacks.

Looking into Deka batts

Deka Marine Master dual-purpose battery?

Battery gurus - fill me in on your opinions regarding this battery. I'm looking at the DP31DT in the chart below as my single group 31 upgrade in my factory location. This is a FLA type battery and that is my preference given the alternator is set up from the factory to work most efficiently...

forum.ih8mud.com

You can stuff a group 31 in the stock location

Homebrew Single Group 31 Battery Install

Took a cue from this thread and ordered a high quality Deka 1131PMF battery. It's a flooded lead acid which has the advantage of full compatibility with the stock smart alternator charging profile (and longest life prospects). With often sought features of AGM including: - Spill proof - Heavy...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[linuxgod]

Thanks guys. So should I just suck it up and put a new agm deep cycle and just expect it to last a couple years or is there a different type of deep cycle that would be better. Will also keep looking for that booster thread…

I've said it before - there's no huge benefit for an AGM in our vehicles (our batteries stay upright and they aren't being stored inside a building) and in fact AGMs have different charging profiles so if you're doing the diode trick and have a second battery you need to make sure both of your batteries are AGM.

I would buy a flooded deep cycle and avoid an AGM for the charging reasons listed. You can get a decent Group 27 Duracell deep cycle from Sams Club for $100. Flooded batteries do require occasional maintenance such as topping off with distilled water but it's not a big deal to do that ~once a year.

 

[ethernectar]

So I dropped off the AGM cell today at a batteries & bulbs about 30 min from here (aka 9 miles in blessed SoCal) and they're going to put it on the charger there and hit it hard to see how it does and check its health.

I have the Slee second battery mount, so the options are limited. A group 32 FLA deep cycle is bigger than the group 35 AGM I have in place by an inch or so. (The group 35 flooded batteries are GINORMOUS.) @linuxgod - Geoff, when I call them tomorrow I'll see if they can get one of those that fits the space. The guy was somewhat helpful, but not especially so. At the same time I'll snoop around for something that fits that space tomorrow AM. Planning on camping a few days next week, so need to have something in place.

Thanks all for the info!

 

[TheGrrrrr]

I’ve been running the X2Power AGM with diode in the AZ heat for two years. No issues. It has 4 or 5 year full replacement warranty, which would exceed the life of any battery I’ve had in AZ. That said, unless you need the benefits of AGM, there isn’t really a good reason to use it as your starting battery. For the first year, mine was handling the full load of the vehicle and all of the toys. Now I have a 100ah lithium and DCDC charger for the toys. When the AGM dies, I’ll replace under warranty. If it outlives the warranty, I’ll buy the same because nothing else out here lasts that long.

I was glad I had AGM when it was running the whole show, but a one battery system just is not a good setup if you have significant power needs in the boondocks. I prefer to let my starting battery focus on the starting, OEM operations, winch and air compressor duties (all with engine running) and have the 2nd battery for everything else.