Builds Another 1HZ Into a 77 FJ40 (1 Viewer)

[Bad Mojo]

Very interesting the forty's is just a little smaller. I may go with it if I can get the shroud and other tid bits. Thanks for the dimensions.

I have also been looking at replacing my gas tank and the BJ40 and the FJ40 have different part numbers for the same year. Because I plan on running I plan on running diesel the BJ40 tank makes sense if it's available, thoughts?

 

[crushers]

either or works for me...

 

[OGBeno]

I got a 1FZ mount the other day and finally had time to fit it up to the engine. It looks promising. The one issue I ran into was the oil pan flange and gasket seem to stick out a smidge too far for the insulator to snug up. I am debating taking a very small amount of material to clear the pan. But I also plan on pulling the mount between the block in the insulator to make sure. I need to check the other side, which sits up higher on the block, but I still need to get the engine up on a rack just to see.

Bump. Since last trying to get the correct 1HZ motor mounts, I've made a "friend" in the parts analysis dept. in Torrance.

I think this guy either likes me or feels bad for me.

He was able to get Toyota to release the correct motor mounts for the 1HZ....

He's helped on a lot of other parts as well that are non-US import but are available because of the mining industry support.

We'll see how nice he continues to be as I am getting ready to order a bunch of stuff for Bad Mojo (including an H55 with the correct input shaft for a 1HZ).

 

[Bad Mojo]

Some progress on this engine swap. The entire drivetrain has been set in. Hopefully final mounts later this week. Also more pictures later.

 

[Bad Mojo]

A quick but important update. The forty is now a HZJ40. The engine is resting on its own. Once I get more items fitted and further along, I will come back and post dimensions of my mounts and measurements.

 

[lelandEOD]

.... .... .... .... I'm Waiting!!!!

 

[Bad Mojo]

Well here is a progress picture for you. An empty H55 case and the bearing that didn't want to leave its home. That bearing finally came out this afternoon after a lot of creative thinking. Next steps include some cleaning, paint, and ordering parts. Lastly, now that this thing is apart I can start the write up on breaking down an H55 without factory tools or a welder.

 

[subzali]

Nice update, but what else had been happening the last 6 years? Lol

 

[lelandEOD]

Well here is a progress picture for you. An empty H55 case and the bearing that didn't want to leave its home. That bearing finally came out this afternoon after a lot of creative thinking. Next steps include some cleaning, paint, and ordering parts. Lastly, now that this thing is apart I can start the write up on breaking down an H55 without factory tools or a welder.

View attachment 1755657

Peer Pressure.


Is Awesome.

 

[cruisermatt]

Man, that sure is a smart way to work on an H-series transmission case. I’ve always just dealt with them not standing upright.

 

[Bad Mojo]

Man, that sure is a smart way to work on an H-series transmission case. I’ve always just dealt with them not standing upright.

Thanks, I can’t take credit for using the insulator as a mount though. I saw that on MUD a long time ago. The lift table was a nice add on for sure.

I did come across this this morning and I might rig something up similar when I get to my split case. Make sure to click the link to see that stand in all of its glory.

 

[lelandEOD]

How's the H55 rebuild coming? I'm getting ready to tear into mine and would love to pick up some tips and tricks from your efforts.

 

[Bad Mojo]

How's the H55 rebuild coming? I'm getting ready to tear into mine and would love to pick up some tips and tricks from your efforts.

Here is a draft of the write up. I am working on the diagrams and photos.

This thread is all about what I learned while disassembling and rebuilding my transmission. Like many I searched Mud in my free time trying to learn as much as possible. What I concluded was I had three options.

1. Pay someone to do the work.

2. Find the magical unicorn pullers from Toyota.

3. Build the pullers but that would require a welder.

None of those options sounded alluring. I wanted to learn how my transmission worked and to rebuild it. The magical pullers seemed like they were hard to come by, and if found unicorn prices could be involved. The last option I didn’t love because while I could make the pullers at work with the welders there, it would be a lot of back and forth and not everyone has welders to build these tools.

With this knowledge in hand, I set forth creating option 4. Which is a mix of option 2 and 3 plus the challenge of no welder. I added that challenge because I think many people shy away from rebuilding transmissions because of the special tools needed or not having access to a welder. I wanted to see if I could do it with almost all basic hand tools. Yes, I did break out a drill to make a couple holes and later a Dremel. With that said I don’t think those are too far out of the normal scope of tools especially for those working on their own vehicle.

The tools used for this job that work and didn’t work are listed below. Certain tools are needed but not as many needed as I expected. I went through several rounds of buying and trying. Just a note some of these tools need to purchased ahead of time, but a good chunk can be bought at normal big box stores. Anything kinda special I listed where I got it. As you read through the list you will see there are some call outs for Toyota tools. Later in this write up is a discussion on reasonable substitutions to those tools. The rebuild and research period did take a while, so when certain tools did come available at non-unicorn prices I did choose to buy them. Partially, because I wanted to compare the tools and because I think factory special service tools (SSTs) are a very cool meeting ground between my two enjoyments of tools and Land Cruisers. With that said I have tried to find reasonable replacements that can be bought online.

Tools That Worked
Hacksaw
Dremel
Breaker Bar
Bastard File - Local Hardware Store associated with ACE Hardware

File card Local - Hardware Store associated with ACE Hardware
Vise or clamps (These are used to hold pieces of metal while filing)
Drill
Dremel
Snap-On Puller (Ebay)
Toyota Gear Puller (Ebay) 09950-50012-01 Puller Set C

Toyota Transmission Puller Kit (Ebay)
Carbide Bit For Dremel (Home Depot)

Cut of wheel For Milwaukee M12 Rotary Tool (Home Depot)
Chainsaw Sharpener Bit For Dremel
Impact Gun (Not a must was nice)
Impact Sockets
Brass Hammer (Napa)
Medium Cold Chisel
Small Cold Chisel
Map Torch
Kroil Oil Local Industrial Supply Store
H55 Rebuild Manual

Snap Ring Pliers Made by Channellock 927 8-Inch (Local Hardware Store associated with ACE Hardware) I bough the reversible kind that work on snap ring sizes between

Drill or drill press. (Technically I used an impact with impact rated drill bits from Milwaukee) If you haven’t tried them out I think they are worth it. )


Didn’t Work, but Attempted
Toyota Slide Hammer (I bought a slide hammer from Toyota, but the claws weren’t super helpful)
Non-Toyota slide hammer (Worse experience than the Toyota one)
Special Toyota Claw (I ordered special claws, but that didn’t do it and they ended up slipping on the bearing, but it was a good experience)
Harbor Freight Puller (I tried one that I had sitting around, the basic idea was correct, but was going to require a lot of modification.
Other Pullers (I had the standard 3 jaw puller that every single part store sells, but that was pretty useless)
Small snap ring pliers (I had also bought some small snap ring pliers at one point, but that didn’t have enough throw in them to get the big rings off.

This tutorial starts with the assumption you have the transmission out of the truck.

I mounted the transmission on its rubber insulation pad and then bolted that to a layered block of plywood which had room for the bolts to pass through. The wood block could then we clamped to either a work surface or a cart. As you can see in the photos I later swapped to an height adjustable table on casters. This is for several reasons. The first being once I get this transmission finished I have to transport the transmission transfer case assembly in a truck to the Land Cruiser. The cart makes loading it much easier. Second, mid through this project my work space changed and I needed to make sure I could roll the transmission out of the way every night. Lastly, I could make the cart a good working height whether for me or to make sure I didn’t tip the cart over with a breaker bar. The cart isn’t a must, but there where several cheap options on Craigslist when I bought mine.

With transmission mounted, I got the top cover, fifth gear housing, and the front cover that looks like an eight off.

From there I followed the order of operations from the manual. A note about the manual, I bought a reproduction just because I like having a printed copy especially when I am gloved up working on something greasy.

Following the order of operations of the manual you start with the bearing that lives in the fifth gear housing.


All the pullers used for this rebuild are two leg pullers that aren’t available off the shelf. The standard stuff just isn’t going to work unfortunately. When I started this rebuild I was able to score a Toyota Puller 09950-50012-01 Puller Set C for the cheap. What I like about this one is that it is modular and you can adapt different length legs and claws onto it. A similar substitute would be this one, which I would recommend more because you can lock down the arms in position better.


McMaster-Carr


OTC makes some similar pullers as well.

The next puller I bought was a Snap-On. I figured that this one would work by ready Roma’s thread.


h55 h55f transmission input shaft swap


This one quickly removed the bottom two bearings. I piece milled the arms and body off of Ebay. Also note that these have replaceable ends. After going through this process I think you can easily make pullers that would work just fine and use the above mentioned puller from McMaster.


Snap-On CG-240-3 “Legs” You need two of these

Snap-On CJ86-1 “Bridge and Pusher” Just need one of these



The last puller was the proper Toyota puller. I bought this for a couple reasons. One I got to a point where I was really struggling with the input shaft bearing and two I wanted to measure the tools and see how Toyota went about this kit. The sets do come up time to time but you can quickly get in a bidding war so watch out. I lucked into mine with a buy it now. The great thing about the kit is it should get you through everything and your not building stuff.

It should be noted that with any of these pullers is if you put enough torque on them they will break. Wear safety glasses and be mindful. If something isn’t moving it means stop and reevaluate the situation.

The fifth gear housing bear is pretty easy to get off. I cut two small tabs out of flat bar with a hacksaw and poppeda hole into each one. And went for it. This set up worked well and got the job done. With that said it you can see in the photo I clamped the puller arms in place otherwise they move during pulling.

The next bearing I went for was the rear lower bearing. Same Toyota puller used but with modified claw. In this case I used socket head bolts to catch on the back side.

At this point I was feeling pretty good about my ability to get this thing apart, but then promptly hit a wall. The first two bearings are pretty easy to reach and don’t have a gear right behind them. However, the front lower one does. While there are access points, which is great you can’t have any extra stick out from your claw otherwise you bottom out the puller.

At this point I returned to Mud and reread Roma’s thread about swapping input shafts. He showed a picture of using a Snap-On puller being used. From there a crash course in Snap-In pullers began. I once again returned to Ebay and got what I wanted. Once all the parts were in I was back in the garage. It took all of five minutes to get that bearing out. It is a great setup. With that said I think a copy of the Toyota puller would of worked just fine in this applications. The success of the Snap-On puller is it has a very small claw that doesn’t interfere with the gear inside the case.

With new energy I carried on into figuring out the removal of the top front input shaft bearing. I figured this should be easy. I have the thread and the tools that shows exactly how to remove this bearing I am good to go. Wrong, so very wrong I was. This was the hardest bearing to remove out of all of them. I eventually cut this one because you can only grab it from the snap ring slot and that isn’t a lot. It should be noted here that Roma was working on a brand new H55 and was swapping shafts. I was working with a transmission that was on its third continent. That is not an excuse or a complaint just realize that going into it.


What ensued after this was a set of experiments that all ended with no success. I got creative with all kinds of ideas to grab on the bearing. The best one that worked is photographed below. However, at this point the bearing moved an optimistic 1/8" and stopped. At this point the Dremel got broken out and cutting started. Part way through this I upgraded to new cordless Milwaukee M12 rotary tool. A worthy upgrade over a Dremel from the early 70s. I initially, started by cutting two slot in the bearing in hopes that it would release any tension in the bearing, and that didn't do much when I set a puller back up on it. From there I started cutting the inner race and outer race enough to get the ball bearings to fall out. This was a combination of slotting with the abrasive wheel and then taking a cold chisel and knocking out the chunks. Much like you would with a traditional wood chisel. Additionally, I had to cut the bearing cage to release each ball. The best way I found was to center cut the cage in the middle of the ball bearing and then open it up with a chisel. Once I got all the ball bearings out, I set forth cutting the outer race. I used the abrasive wheel for as much as I could because it cuts the fastest. From there I switched to the carbide burr and worked from both the outside of the case and inside. The burrs do get dull so have at least two on hand. When I would finish a cutting session I would heat the bearing with a map torch and also spray it down with Kroil oil. After cutting through most of the bearing I was able to finally knock it out the front with a punch and hammer. The cutting process is a slow one because you have to make sure you don't cut into the case just take your time.



With the outer race removed the input shaft comes out with out issue. Just be aware of the roller pins coming out with it. I finished cutting the rest of inner race off the input shaft.


With that bearing out the way I went after the last bearing. Once this one starts moving it will drop the gear set down. To prevent damage to the gears I stuffed two t-shirts in the case and that helped keep the gear sets from getting damaged. For the final bearing I switched to the proper Toyota puller. The arms for this could easily be reconstructed and used with a non Toyota puller. The Toyota puller didn't fit through one of the access holes right away, so I used the same carbide burr to clearance out the case more to get the arm through. Initially, I was having issue with the pullers popping off. At that point I located a working puller arm clamp. This helps keep the arms from popping off. Also, note how much engagement you get on the bearing when the arms are clamped together. This was something I kinda understood at the beginning, but now understand much more now.



The whole process of breaking down the transmission isn’t really a scary one, but you need to have the right tools to do it. A robust puller is needed with adjustable length arms is critical because of all of the shafts you need to work around.

 

[lelandEOD]

Thanks for the writeup. I look forward to seeing some photos!