Just under 237,000km (147,000mi) on this recent JDM import. I wanted to do the BEBs and see how things look in there. I was pleased. And the job went well.
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I put her up on the lift at West Coast Cruisers, Ramona, CA. The old, thin putty knife (shown) did pretty well cutting the factory grey FIPG. I tapped on it with a hammer where I could. The block to transmission brace is important to remove on one of the two sides, otherwise the pan doesn't want to come downward easily.
I was greatly relived to get the pan on the ground and inspect for any debris, sludge or particulate. Nothing. It was oily clean in there.
There was no indication that the pan had ever been off before.
From everything we've been able to find so far this was a well-maintained vehicle.
I was greatly relived to get the pan on the ground and inspect for any debris, sludge or particulate. Nothing. It was oily clean in there.
There was no indication that the pan had ever been off before.
From everything we've been able to find so far this was a well-maintained vehicle.
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Here are photos of the original bearings; I knew you were waiting. #1 to #6, left to right.
The second photo shows #5 & #6 uppers.
The last photo is #3 & #4 uppers.
Oh yeah: I Plastiguaged two of the new bearings (which I sourced from Radd) and they were both within FSM specs, as I was led to expect.
The second photo shows #5 & #6 uppers.
The last photo is #3 & #4 uppers.
Oh yeah: I Plastiguaged two of the new bearings (which I sourced from Radd) and they were both within FSM specs, as I was led to expect.
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Good result.
What's the line on bearing 3 from? It's not a groove?
What's the line on bearing 3 from? It's not a groove?
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It's hard to say. It's not a groove that's easily felt but something must have been introduced via the oil port and it left its mark. The crank didn't show anything there fortunately.
I didn't get any pictures. But just did my B.E.B.s for the second time.
First time was right around 200,000km. Which did get documented on another thread on here.
There was slight wear on #5 then.
My odometer said 327xxx km that's with 127k km reporting at about 7-8% under from my 34.5" tires.
So true mileage should be sitting somewhere around 138,000.
There was even less wear on #5 this time. Though there was some.
I'm changing Shell Rotella 5w40 full synthetic, with mostly Sakura oil filters, more recently Genuine Toyota at intervals of up to 10,000kms.
Im very surprised there isn't an Official 1hd-t B.E.B. thread where everyone can report their findings in one convenient location to document and compare mileages, wear, lubrication types and change intervals...
First time was right around 200,000km. Which did get documented on another thread on here.
There was slight wear on #5 then.
My odometer said 327xxx km that's with 127k km reporting at about 7-8% under from my 34.5" tires.
So true mileage should be sitting somewhere around 138,000.
There was even less wear on #5 this time. Though there was some.
I'm changing Shell Rotella 5w40 full synthetic, with mostly Sakura oil filters, more recently Genuine Toyota at intervals of up to 10,000kms.
Im very surprised there isn't an Official 1hd-t B.E.B. thread where everyone can report their findings in one convenient location to document and compare mileages, wear, lubrication types and change intervals...
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Now that's it's done, and I had a look around in there confirming a good maintenance history, I'm going to forget about my BEBs for a long time. (I will use OEM oil filters and good oil, keeping my intervals below 10,000km.) I'll also do Blackstone oil analysis every now and then to make sure I'm not missing something.
Where did you source the bolts? Thank ya!
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RADD Cruisers, along with the bearings. Beno would also be a great source.
No reason to buy those from me when Radd Cruisers or 4wheelauto has nice Taiho kits all ready to go.
Thanks gents. I found the Taihos on Ebay as referenced in a different thread but was having a hard time finding the bolts. I have it sorted now, thanks!
Edit: Link added.
Toyota 1HDT Straight-Six Diesel Connecting Rod Bolts Set of 12 | eBay
Edit: Link added.
Toyota 1HDT Straight-Six Diesel Connecting Rod Bolts Set of 12 | eBay
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Finally got around to the pulling my BEBs. They look ok compared to others i've seen (170k KM). I'll post pics soon.
Question on plastigauge. I sent mine off for a moly coating from Swain Tech so I think it's prudent to plastigauge. Do I have to measure the top and bottom bearing? Or just the bottom? The truck is on a lift so I'm still wondering how I'm going to do this tomorrow...do you just put the plastiguage on the replacement shell and hope it sticks? This seems likes its going to be difficult for the top bearing... The videos I've found alway show someone working on an engine that's pulled. Any advice?
Also, do I need to apply any oil to the bearings at install? Or once I fill it back up with oil will that gravity feed down to coat them?
Thanks as always!
Edit: Re-read the FSM and learned how to slide the upper bearing off and around the crankshaft and that it depicts only plastigauging the bottom bearing.
Question on plastigauge. I sent mine off for a moly coating from Swain Tech so I think it's prudent to plastigauge. Do I have to measure the top and bottom bearing? Or just the bottom? The truck is on a lift so I'm still wondering how I'm going to do this tomorrow...do you just put the plastiguage on the replacement shell and hope it sticks? This seems likes its going to be difficult for the top bearing... The videos I've found alway show someone working on an engine that's pulled. Any advice?
Also, do I need to apply any oil to the bearings at install? Or once I fill it back up with oil will that gravity feed down to coat them?
Thanks as always!
Edit: Re-read the FSM and learned how to slide the upper bearing off and around the crankshaft and that it depicts only plastigauging the bottom bearing.
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Definitely oil the bearings and crank journal as you reassemble.
After all the effort of changing them, last thing you want to do is the first start up with dry bearings. You could gall them first start.
After all the effort of changing them, last thing you want to do is the first start up with dry bearings. You could gall them first start.
Running into a clearance issue I think. FSM says 0.0014 to 0.0021 in. I’ve checked two separate new bearings and rechecked the original bearings I pulled. They are all measuring 0.001, both with new bearings and reinstalling the old, torquing to spec. So was I already running out of spec on the original bearings and should I be concerned? This means I have slightly more physical space between the bearing and the crank pin than spec? Any inputs? Very much appreciated!
I have a 1991 1HD-T and got the specs from the Feb 1990 Repair manual. Might these specs have changed?
Edit: Checked a third cylinder with new bearings... still dead on .001....ugh
A couple more details. I have a new set of bolts but I've been checking the clearance with the originals. They seemed to torque down to spec just fine but not sure if that's an issue. The bearings I ordered were Taiho R707A 16F08A, STD size and I had them moly coated which originally made think I might be on the opposite side of this clearance issue...
Edit: Slept on it and I was misinterpreting the Plastigauge. I didn’t realize you could use each section independently. I’ll take another look when I get back to the truck on Tues.
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Best place to source ACL or Taiho (whichever is Highest recommended) bearings sets with the bolts and a pickup tube gasket in the US? Thanks!
you can get them on ebay - Taiho Tri-Metal Bearings for Toyota 1HDT Straight-Six Diesel w/Rod Bolts | eBay
Thanks!
ACL reportedly last longer.
