Just saw your rebuild mate, looking good...
Builds Another 12H-T build (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Gengis
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #22
So, life got in the way again, with father in law cracking a C3 vertabtae on his mountain bike. Getting well, and my big thing is to seal up the engine to a point whwer it can stand for a while if necessary , this weekend.
Anyone have a problem with copper spray on the head gasket?? Tough if you do, I have used this for 30 years ( 10 or 12 re-builds and no comebacks. All looking good.
Anyone have a problem with copper spray on the head gasket?? Tough if you do, I have used this for 30 years ( 10 or 12 re-builds and no comebacks. All looking good.
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- Thread starter
- #23
Starting to look like an engine again.
s***, one missing cover nut.
G
s***, one missing cover nut.
G
Did you use factory Toyota head gasket with the red inserts? Or did you find a
MLS multi layer steel head gasket? Looks good.
MLS multi layer steel head gasket? Looks good.
- Thread starter
- #25
I could not get either , it's a Victor Reinz ?? whatever.
They appear to be good quality, not that too many engines die because of a bad gasket. More likely poor machining.
- Thread starter
- #27
Have to agree, and lack of proper cleaning prior to assembling. Although a multilayer steel gasket would have been nice. Heard a lot about them for a 12ht but never actually seen one.
s***, imagine if Toyota had built these with Alfin pistons and MLS gaskets, hell, no one would even know what they looked like inside, and the HD would have been still born.
s***, imagine if Toyota had built these with Alfin pistons and MLS gaskets, hell, no one would even know what they looked like inside, and the HD would have been still born.
- Thread starter
- #28
Sorting studs and nuts for the manifolds.
I liked the copper exhaust nuts , until I got to the checkout. Probably not as strong as steel, but the turbo is well supported, and we will be able to get them off one day in the future.
I liked the copper exhaust nuts , until I got to the checkout. Probably not as strong as steel, but the turbo is well supported, and we will be able to get them off one day in the future.
- Thread starter
- #29
Sorting out the turbo side, I had already rebuilt the center section with both new wheels and a Mellett kit, but had not had it balanced. Good thing because the oil and water feeds needed bending and twisting and I would not have been comfortable doing this with with the compressor wheel exposed.
Then I slipped the compressor cover on just for fun, and sat there making Brrrrrrmmmmm Brrrruummm noises until the Missus caught me. She just does not get it.
Then I slipped the compressor cover on just for fun, and sat there making Brrrrrrmmmmm Brrrruummm noises until the Missus caught me. She just does not get it.
AussieHJCruza
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ADS diesel in QLD, Australia makes them for the 12HT, they're about $600AUD last time I checked. Wasn't worth it for me as I'm not planning to hop it up too much and Partsouq had a genuine one available. I do wish Toyota put Alfin pistons in tho, that's really the only failing of the 12HT
- Thread starter
- #32
You tell me Kiwi, this is new ground to me. The core looks OK but the exhaust turbine/shaft were buggered and the compressor wheel chipped. I replaced both and got a kit with bearings thrust plate ect.
What I want to do now that the oil and water systems are sorted, is to rebuild the core and take it to a turbo shop to get it balanced.. Is this the way to go? Both new wheels have signs of haveing been pre- balanced.
G
What I want to do now that the oil and water systems are sorted, is to rebuild the core and take it to a turbo shop to get it balanced.. Is this the way to go? Both new wheels have signs of haveing been pre- balanced.
G
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I'm no expert either but I've just been all through this myself when I upgraded and built my own CT26. Yes both the turbine and the comp wheels will already be balanced on their own but when you bolt them together that all changes and really means nothing. There's a few options to go with from here and depending on what turbo builder you use they all have their own way of doing things. Some of the checks/tests are turbine shaft straightness gets checked, low speed shaft/rotor balancing of just the turbine and comp wheel, complete core/CHRA balancing then there's VSR balancing. I've spoken to a few turbo builders now and they all say that most shops are moving away from just shaft/rotor balancing now because every time you disturb the comp nut when you pull it apart and reassemble it back into the core it loses its balance and has been the cause of many failed turbos. High speed VSR is the really fancy one which uses crazy expensive equipment and is considered the ultimate.
Pics below of some of the balancing marks from mine.
Pics below of some of the balancing marks from mine.
- Thread starter
- #34
I’m hoping to get them balanced all assembled on the core . I guess they have some way of keeping that cover behind the exhaust turbine away from the wheel during balancing and keeping grinding bits away from getting in behind the wheels when they grind. Any way as said “this is my first time dear” I’m a turbo virgin on a learning curve, but quite far down the line thanks to you lot out there in mud land.
- Thread starter
- #35
Got the core balanced and not much came off, but the wheels were prebalanced, so that may have helped.
Turbine was easy, but forgot to put the circlip on the cartrage before the compressor housing, and then put it on the wrong way around. is the circlip slightly tapered, or is it old and should have been replaced??
All on and hanging and connected
Turbine was easy, but forgot to put the circlip on the cartrage before the compressor housing, and then put it on the wrong way around. is the circlip slightly tapered, or is it old and should have been replaced??
All on and hanging and connected
- Thread starter
- #36
Coaster outlet.
- Thread starter
- #38
Ok, confession time, I had everything ready to get the engine "Sealed" before I started the post, but not all the little things that hang on the sides and thats what I am busying myself with at the moment. No big suprises or dissapointments here, but some missing nuts and bolts and the crank oil seal which was the incorrect size ( so much for sealing the engine) will have to wait until our Covid 19 lockdown period is over.
Water pump and thermostat housing cleaning and fitting next. Will have to wait for a cross over pipe and a thermostat.
So, who has a new "12HT" decal for me, or where can i get one.
Water pump and thermostat housing cleaning and fitting next. Will have to wait for a cross over pipe and a thermostat.
So, who has a new "12HT" decal for me, or where can i get one.
- Thread starter
- #39
Water pump and housing done. I polished the thermostat outlet top but I don'r expect it to stay shinny for too long.
Waiting on a few bits before I can call the water system done.
The buggers sent a crank seal with a 68mm OD, not the required 72mm!! It was part of a kit, so no comebacks unfortunately.
Waiting on a few bits before I can call the water system done.
The buggers sent a crank seal with a 68mm OD, not the required 72mm!! It was part of a kit, so no comebacks unfortunately.
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