My DS mirror started to shake a lot. Took it apart and sure enough both little ears were broken off.
Looked at the forum and saw various posts about either gluing the ears back / making a new one out of epoxy or alternatively the zip tie solution. Don't have time for the former and the latter seems problematic as far as reopening the thing back up in the future.
I did something slightly different. I used an adjustable bungee of sorts and threaded that around the back frame attached to the plastic housing. Used a slot to keep it in position and not ride up. See the fuzzy pic below. the advantage of using an adjustable bungee is that you can tighten it just right very easily. Else, with a piece of bungee cord, you may have to tie and untie the thing several times before it's OK.
I tightened it enough that I could still but barely fit it over the bracket attached to the glass when in position. So, I then slid the mirror back in and pulled the bungee up and behind the glass bracket. That pulls the whole thing into the housing. I can then reattach the screw in the bottom and that's that.
Why this way you ask? Well, because it is very easy to remove the mirror later on. Just pry gently on top (see other pic) after having removed the bottom screw. The glass will readily tilt out due to the bungee's elasticity. Hold the glass tilted with one hand, use a hook with the other to lift the bungee off the glass bracket and the bungee strap comes right off. So does the glass after that.
It is very rigid now, no more shaking. Will only last as long as the bungee, of course, but good enough for a while at least. Adjustment works normally.
Being a belt and suspender kinda guy, I also tied the glass to the rear frame with a string (white in the pic) as a tether so it can't just fall off and get ruined or lost or hammer the door if it all fails. Indeed, I think I was lucky that the screw held on so well by its lonesome for a while given that it was the last thing holding the glass in the housing and it could have easily fallen out if that screw had failed as well (although then the electric wires might have still held on for a while maybe).
Looked at the forum and saw various posts about either gluing the ears back / making a new one out of epoxy or alternatively the zip tie solution. Don't have time for the former and the latter seems problematic as far as reopening the thing back up in the future.
I did something slightly different. I used an adjustable bungee of sorts and threaded that around the back frame attached to the plastic housing. Used a slot to keep it in position and not ride up. See the fuzzy pic below. the advantage of using an adjustable bungee is that you can tighten it just right very easily. Else, with a piece of bungee cord, you may have to tie and untie the thing several times before it's OK.
I tightened it enough that I could still but barely fit it over the bracket attached to the glass when in position. So, I then slid the mirror back in and pulled the bungee up and behind the glass bracket. That pulls the whole thing into the housing. I can then reattach the screw in the bottom and that's that.
Why this way you ask? Well, because it is very easy to remove the mirror later on. Just pry gently on top (see other pic) after having removed the bottom screw. The glass will readily tilt out due to the bungee's elasticity. Hold the glass tilted with one hand, use a hook with the other to lift the bungee off the glass bracket and the bungee strap comes right off. So does the glass after that.
It is very rigid now, no more shaking. Will only last as long as the bungee, of course, but good enough for a while at least. Adjustment works normally.
Being a belt and suspender kinda guy, I also tied the glass to the rear frame with a string (white in the pic) as a tether so it can't just fall off and get ruined or lost or hammer the door if it all fails. Indeed, I think I was lucky that the screw held on so well by its lonesome for a while given that it was the last thing holding the glass in the housing and it could have easily fallen out if that screw had failed as well (although then the electric wires might have still held on for a while maybe).
