Amp Install Questions & Subwoofer Possibility

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Hey All,

Quick update, so much going on I've not had time to complete my stereo install on my 2001 no-nav LC but am getting ready to tackle the amp and front doors (I DynaMatted and DynaLined both back doors along with new rear speaker install last weekend to get going). I want to better understand the amp install by listing what I think I know and asking for input. I'm adding a Morel 4.400 70x4 to power the doors and planning to add a powered sub soon. Will remove factory amp, install Morel under passenger seat, and plan to use factory wiring. Here goes:

-run fused power line from battery
-run RCA's from head unit to Morel
-ground Morel to chassis
-cut and connect 3 wires described here //tlcfaq.com/main/2012/05/land-cruiser-lx-470-stereo-wiring/
-cut and connect speaker wires to Morel amp
-QUESTION: what about remaining wires from S6 & S7 connectors? Is it simply cut and connect orange to orange, brown to brown, etc? This my biggest question.

Also, I mentioned adding a powered sub - thinking of the Kenwood KSC-PSW8. Dimensions are (W)13-3/4" x (H) 2-15/16" x (D)9-7/16"

- is there room under the driver seat?
-if not, would this fit where the factory sub box is if removed?

As always, thanks for all the help - especially for all the threads and good info already on the board. @RobRed @suprarx7nut

Also, will be adding a thread with install documentation for the DynaMat/DynaLiner in a separate thread as there's not much about it here. May do the same with the amp/powered sub/
 
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You can save some money by powering the rear speakers with the head unit and using the front 2 channels of your 4 channel amp for your fronts and the rear 2 channels bridged for a subwoofer. If you go this route, you don't have to run another power cable for a powered sub.
 

suprarx7nut

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What head unit do you have? If you have OEM still, then I guess you have to mess with wire splicing. I always avoid any cutting of any OEM wire unless it's already broken. Buy yourself a terminal extractor off Amazon if you don't have one already. Then you can slip the wires out and twist and tape around the terminal or go "pro" and use a new connector that uses the ubiquitous 090-III terminals that are all over the 100.

There's virtually no room under the driver's seat due to a fan (I think?). It's pretty packed under there. Lots of room under passenger, though.

I doubt that would fit in the OEM subwoofer spot. The OEM subwoofer is an odd shape. The box volume available in there is pretty small compared to the overall volume. Lots of space to do a cool fiberglass enclosure, but very little to just throw a rectangular box shape in there.

A sub of some sort is a good idea though. You'll be underwhelmed with the bass after you remove the factory amp/sub until you have something else to go in.

*oh, and thanks for the shout out! Glad I can help some other folks work towards some awesome audio setups. :)
 
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Sorry, should have included I have a new Kenwood DDX5706 installed and am upgrading speakers with Morel Maximo Ultra 602 Components in front and 602 Coaax's in rear. Amp is the Morel 4.400 and plan to put it under the passenger seat.

I took a look a the connector and removal tool and see what you're getting at there. Any thoughts on the question I posed above about the "extra" wires (orange to orange, etc)?
 

gregnash

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So I am looking at a similar powered sub like that... I will see if I can find the pick but I had found on Overland Bound's instagram a while back that in a GX they had mounted it to the side panel on the drivers side. Basically where the grill is for the OEM sub, they mounted on there (so mounted vertically on the wall). I never got a response from them as to how it was mounted and what not but figured that maybe a couple small rails to tie it down. I am still in the process with mine so figuring how things are going to happen.

Plan is similar to yours, though I am using the "parts unknown" version of the Morel Maximo's (non-ultra) for my doors and will likely go with a smaller Punch 300x4 or Kenwood X302-4 amp to power the doors.
 
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I am planning on having sub in stock location. I am on sub #3 now (returned first 2 as not fitting). Current pick 6.5 inch Ampere Audio.
From what I found so far, those 6.5 inch subs need about 8L of space for enclosed box. Yes, I did measure stock box and it's exactly 6L so it's too small for those AM subs. I can either try to increase volume by making sub stick out and raise stock grille or make custom fiberglass enclosure. I am leaning towards making custom enclosure, should be enough space for 8L.
 

gregnash

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I am planning on having sub in stock location. I am on sub #3 now (returned first 2 as not fitting). Current pick 6.5 inch Ampere Audio.
From what I found so far, those 6.5 inch subs need about 8L of space for enclosed box. Yes, I did measure stock box and it's exactly 6L so it's too small for those AM subs. I can either try to increase volume by making sub stick out and raise stock grille or make custom fiberglass enclosure. I am leaning towards making custom enclosure, should be enough space for 8L.
Look at the build that @BenCC did for Sargy in his 3D printing thread. May be able to work for you.

This is the powered sub I am looking at. Know a few guys that have the older 8" version and say it puts out plenty of base in their 60s.
 
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Look at the build that @BenCC did for Sargy in his 3D printing thread. May be able to work for you.
Which out of gazillion pages in this topic?

EDIT: Found it. it's cover. Problem is - box remained the same volume. I also see that he drilled holes in a box which is very questionable.
I need more volume..
 

suprarx7nut

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Sorry, should have included I have a new Kenwood DDX5706 installed and am upgrading speakers with Morel Maximo Ultra 602 Components in front and 602 Coaax's in rear. Amp is the Morel 4.400 and plan to put it under the passenger seat.

I took a look a the connector and removal tool and see what you're getting at there. Any thoughts on the question I posed above about the "extra" wires (orange to orange, etc)?
Ok, if you have an aftermarket head unit, then I think you just need power from the under seat area. (constant/battery and accy). I'd make a new ground and forget the ground in the amp area to avoid any possible confusion. Since wiring changes a few times in the 100 range, I'm not sure which colors are right for you.

On wire color - I'm not sure. Accessory is gray in and out on the 99 LX. Battery is blue-yellow going into amp area and either blue-yellow or white.
 
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@RobRed any insight? I’m not asking as much for specifics of wire color but for what to do with each of the wires beyond the 3 wires & speaker wires addressed in the tlcfaq link above. It may make more sense once I actually pull the seat and start on it but have had a couple of things delay my getting going on it and so am still reading threads for info. I’m planning to document what I do for the next guy.
 

gregnash

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@RobRed any insight? I’m not asking as much for specifics of wire color but for what to do with each of the wires beyond the 3 wires & speaker wires addressed in the tlcfaq link above. It may make more sense once I actually pull the seat and start on it but have had a couple of things delay my getting going on it and so am still reading threads for info. I’m planning to document what I do for the next guy.
From my understanding watching @suprarx7nut videos and another bypass video, the main wires we want from the wiring harness (with the intention of using AS MUCH stock wiring as possible) is the +/- running to each door speaker, amp turn on wire and I think that is it. Everything else is associated with the functionality of the stock system (sub wires, amp power for stock power, +/- from stereo to amp, etc.) and thus not needed. The reason is that you will be running NEW dedicated wires for the things from the HEAD UNIT to do that OR you will be running new power for the amp.
 
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From my understanding watching @suprarx7nut videos and another bypass video, the main wires we want from the wiring harness (with the intention of using AS MUCH stock wiring as possible) is the +/- running to each door speaker, amp turn on wire and I think that is it. Everything else is associated with the functionality of the stock system (sub wires, amp power for stock power, +/- from stereo to amp, etc.) and thus not needed. The reason is that you will be running NEW dedicated wires for the things from the HEAD UNIT to do that OR you will be running new power for the amp.
Gotcha, that helps @gregnash ! It seems like it should be pretty simple but when I look at the pics of the amp connectors, etc it sure seems like there are a lot of wires to account for :) At the end of the day, it's power and sound in and powerful sound out!
 
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Quick glance on this thread...probably missed some important stuff, but @jammingator, should be able to fit amp in stock sub location if you are still wanting to go that route...I mounted a 750W power inverter there in mine...

@katit if you find a sub that is somewhat close to fitting depth wise in the stock box, I wouldn't stress over 6L v 8L... I bet you could EQ the sound difference out of that... It is still a 6.5" sub, it's only going to do so much...
 
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@katit if you find a sub that is somewhat close to fitting depth wise in the stock box, I wouldn't stress over 6L v 8L... I bet you could EQ the sound difference out of that... It is still a 6.5" sub, it's only going to do so much...
I found sub and set on a choice now. It won't fit stock box. And just looking at it I can tell stock box will not be big enough..
One option is to mod stock grill and box so it will stick out an inch compare to stock. It may give it another 1/2-1L in volume.
Another option is to fiberglass new custom box and try to use every single inch of space which should give additional 2L of volume.

Not sure which way I am going YET but it won't be easy regardless.
 
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Working on install now.

Thanks @codertimt . Took out the sub enclosure and it's fairly tight in there. The amp will fit but not the sub. I'm going to put the amp under the seat though for ease of wiring. Looks like I'm just going to mount the sub on the floor behind the seat.

Still trying to understand how to handle the extra wires on the S7 plug as I go so any additional insight would be great!

One quick note, the plug numbers on the diagrams at the tlcfaq link above are the reverse of what I see on my rig. Combining with the wiring diagram it's making sense. As I mentioned, just not sure of what to do with extra wires - will just leave as is in the plug and see what happens I guess.
 

gregnash

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Yeah doing my stuff tomorrow.. Wish me luck!

With regards to the extra wires? What is your concern? If they aren't being used then just leave them in the plug and tuck the plug away. If you are concerned they may connect something and cause a short, throw some tape over the end of the plug or do like a small piece of Press N Seal or Seran Wrap. That is my plan at least.
 
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