Aluminum front bumpers? (1 Viewer)

[robmobile73]

I have been considering fabricating a new front bumper to replace my previous creation. There's a couple key areas where my old design didn't have enough strength. I've also realized that I like the factory type winch bumper you can stand on and walk on. I'd just like it about 5 or 6" higher up. With the bumper sticking out that far you don't really need a brush guard loop. I've recently started welding aluminum and am considering fabricating a new bumper out of aluminum. Probably use steel plate to mount the winch and a couple of pieces of braced steel box tubes behind the bumper as a support to jack under. I'm guessing I could loose 100# off the front end this way.

Anyone have any opinion on aluminum vs. steel bumpers and what thickness is good for Al.?

 

[Behemoth60]

3/8 to 1/2" Aluminum for bumper. 1/2 for mounting locations, 3/8 for for the main long spans of the bumper. Tow points should still be steel, and bolt THROUGH the bumper to the frame, but the rest of the bumper can definitely be aluminum.

I've had an aluminum rear bumper with dual swingouts for 12 years now. It's been on some hard core trails, and dragged over rocks many times. It's plenty strong, has no rust on it after 12 years of scratches and scrapes, and is light enough that I can mount it on my own.

 

[Hulsty]

We build thousands of Aluminum bullbars at year at my work, typicallys wings are 3mm, center section 3-4mm or a extrusion, braces 4mm and mounts 6mm. Can make the whole thing from alloy, including the winch mount but need to gauge/design appropriately.

 

[robmobile73]

Thankyou for the information. This is a backburner possible future project for me. I designed my steel bumper with a number of requirements: Ability to put a high lift jack under the bottom of it all the way across(flat surfaces), Good approach clearance for the tires, Mount a winch, not restrict too much air to the radiator, Brush guard that also mounts lights and fishing rod holders...................It is not strong enough in the middle between the frame rails. I used 3/16" and some 1/8" plate and 1/4" bar. It is bolted to the frame not welded. In order to get the winch in and out it has a little less steel in the middle than I'd like. I used 2 pieces laminated/welded 3/16 instead of 3/8 plate under the winch. (not thick enough).

If I make a new one I will make a bumper out of aluminum similar to the factory winch bumper, but it will be about 4" higher for more approach ground clearance. Winch will be on 3/8" steel plate on top of frame rails/bumper. Bumper will stick out enough that I won't need a brush guard. I'll take a chance on the winch restricting airflow. to the radiator.

 

[robmobile73]

3/8 to 1/2" Aluminum for bumper. 1/2 for mounting locations, 3/8 for for the main long spans of the bumper. Tow points should still be steel, and bolt THROUGH the bumper to the frame, but the rest of the bumper can definitely be aluminum.

I've had an aluminum rear bumper with dual swingouts for 12 years now. It's been on some hard core trails, and dragged over rocks many times. It's plenty strong, has no rust on it after 12 years of scratches and scrapes, and is light enough that I can mount it on my own.

With bumper welded out of 3/8" plate can you put a jack under it on the end and jack the vehicle up without bending the bumper?

 

[Behemoth60]

With bumper welded out of 3/8" plate can you put a jack under it on the end and jack the vehicle up without bending the bumper?

Easily. My aluminum rear bumper has special 'Jack Off' points built into it for this very purpose. It's been jacked upon many times. It's slammed down onto sandstone and granite ledges. It's clawed and scraped over basalt bedrock. It's pretty good stuff, that aluminum.

 

[joekatana]

Or try and find one of these older aluminum TJM bumpers , I love mine

 

[robmobile73]

This is a real back burner project for me. Just got it into my brain since buying a spool gun and welding some aluminum for the first time successfully.