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You can get flares from bushwacker. Tape is for the transmission tunnel. I would just put some thinner tires on with oem steel wheels though rather than put flares on. I think your overthinking the hard top post. Having a roll bar should add enough strength to the b pillar area to make the hard top post non consequential.Hi all, been a member for a while, this site is epic for owners. Over the last week I have been installing a full Aqualu tub, and it has gone well. I have around 50-60 hours into it, not done yet but another couple of days and it will be complete - ready to drive with original top and doors. Cutting out the holes in their original places and sizes took ages, and I labeled all the electrical. Still need to remove it all for paint/rhino line, get windshield installed into frame and align the door hinges.
I had to modify my roll cage by cutting off 7” of the back to sit on the aluminum corners - so I can still use the large original back seats. Also something I didn’t count on was removing the muffler as it has to be modified to fit the trunk in - very snug fit, those guys at Aqualu sure made it as big as they could, which I do appreciate!
Couple of questions for those of you who have completed this before:
1: what is the roll of foam tape in the cowl package used for?
2: rear fender flares - where an I get affordable ones, and how have you installed mud flaps?
3: I plan to modify the hardtop posts rather than cutting them off, just seem to need a 1/4” taken off - I feel that these are pretty important for strength, especially if you were ever T-boned... has anyone else done this?
I am sort of rushing this process to get my out of province in BC complete, then later on next year I hope to remove it again and do a proper restoration and paint. I only have to the end of December to get it into BC again otherwise I have to pay tax on my own car (settlers allowance) I sure wish I could have more fun with the build rather than rushing simply to appease the safety guy.
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Looking at the condition of that 40 I would seriously consider a full tub rather than 3/4 tub. Looks like you have rust in the seams of the cowl. The only way to repair that is to drill out the spot welds of the seams, dissasemble the cowl pieces and repair, then weld back together. I would carefully look at the frame too, you may need to replace the frame if its badly rusted, aqualu sells new frames as well. 79 and newer fj40 bodies had poorer quality sheet metal that rusts more readily even if you repair the cowl, so the more of it you replace the less future hassle you will have. Thus why I would consider getting a whole tub. I wouldn't leave it bare because aluminum does corrode, so its better if its coated.I'm ordering my Aqualu tub in a month or so for this beast. I've got a line on some steel replacement panels but with welding, sealing, sanding blah blah I am nearly the same cost as Aqualu and double the hours
Anyways, question:
Does anyone have the video posted that shows the install? All I can find is this PDF from Aqualu's website. I'm especially curious as to how the steel cowl joins the Aqualu tub
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This seems to be an ongoing issue with Aqualu. Your tank well seems to be too deep, and mine was 3/8” too shallow. There is another current build going on (can’t remember who), and his tank well is 1/2” too shallow. Any idea how far off your is?Has anyone had an issue with the gas tank recess hitting the cross bar? I have the Daystar body mounts, but I also need to lift it with the mounts supplied by Aqualu to clear the cross bar.View attachment 2888343
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I would really prefer not to have to lift the whole body for clearance.