Alternator (1 Viewer)

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ill look give me till tomorrow
No big deal. I crossed the stock alternator to a Remy alternator that seems to be readily available, plus comes in a standard 50 amps.

I also got the used one. Although it tested good it was rough looking on the outside so I'm swapping all parts to my housing. Hopefully all parts are interchangeable. I noted some minor differences on the exterior.

It does need a new brush assembly. Can you help out with that? Tge bolt hole distance is about 44mm.

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No big deal. I crossed the stock alternator to a Remy alternator that seems to be readily available, plus comes in a standard 50 amps.

I also got the used one. Although it tested good it was rough looking on the outside so I'm swapping all parts to my housing. Hopefully all parts are interchangeable. I noted some minor differences on the exterior.

It does need a new brush assembly. Can you help out with that? Tge bolt hole distance is about 44mm.

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I don’t have that rectifier

But I do have these little unicorns :


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Point me the way. One if mine was broken, the other cracked.


hey Robert ,


PM me your shipping info. please when get this update thread post



i want to help you get back on the road here like Jack Flash H55F fast in any way i can .......

there is no cost involved for NOS
NipponDenso the brush holder ,



i really admire and respect the fact that your taking the time to diagnose and replace individual oem components in a Genuine NipponDenso unit like you

have going on here , we live in a rush rush rush hurry up Amazon fast world it seams now so often ?


i have learned a few new things in your thread about alternators too , :)



i have a personal fascination with the original sophistication of anything OEM Genuine
NipponDenso and the simple yet TOUGH as NAILS

JAPAN Design fundamentals and JIS Spec's Engineering principles involved to say the least ,



im glad i have your needed part and even more happy its finally going to the right home the live once again ......




matt



:D










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Good morning Robert

Sometimes when it JDM rains it TEq pours ..

In my world it does from time to time ..

Well you have a flood on your hands here 🤣


These are both to yours to utilize as you need them in any way


The NoS one on the RH side has slightly as in 3-4mm only offset male theaded studs pattern how ever the retifier boards are loaded with goodies to plunder

The one on the LH side with the green 2 wire plug has the same exact studs patterns as your current one and a NEW copper windings coil too



Between both of these in todays mail out to you , me thinks you should be in alot of a better place

You will have to de-solder parts and re-solder them back together to be krystal klear here ..

But I know u ain’t afraid


NOS is the Best !

And

This Black plug Coil assy is one sexy stater indeed …😎

The copper glistens and shines like a Phoenix Rising from the TEq ashes of history to be alive and live once again ..,


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well ..........

i decided to or naturally started a deep organizing long over due of the NipponDenso aisle here at the Laboratory parts dept. super NOS warehouse and

long term storage facility ......


- sadly no rear NOS frames ........:(

- but indeed a NOS front face Frame w / JAPAN NATCHI OEM Bearing pre-installed long long ago , like old but still NOS prefect ...


- mounting hardware bottom pivot and upper tab lock-down bolt NON-USA w/ the famous EARTHQUAKE washer SEMS on it already this bolt is the

absolutely BEST KEY PUNCHING TIME score in 2022 for sure , random and obscure it was hidden for sure , but not anymore :D



- brush springs NOS if u need them later


- All this is simply the left over spoils of more then a few NOS unicorn hunter missions over the years glad to see it’s going to a loving home ..:)




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Was getting the brush assembly together for a preliminary fit and I discovered my working alternator does not fit in my housing. So I guess no swapping to the cleaner housing. The older one is about 1/4" bigger stator and I'm guessing the rotor is probably bigger. So I will be taking all the housing parts and sand blasting. It also looks like I need to replace both bearings as they spin way too easily. Here's the two housing ends back to back.

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Was getting the brush assembly together for a preliminary fit and I discovered my working alternator does not fit in my housing. So I guess no swapping to the cleaner housing. The older one is about 1/4" bigger stator and I'm guessing the rotor is probably bigger. So I will be taking all the housing parts and sand blasting. It also looks like I need to replace both bearings as they spin way too easily. Here's the two housing ends back to back.

View attachment 3034511



good morning Robert ,



- Bottom FRAME END is a 2nd Generation Nippondenso ,


- TOP FRAME end is a 3rd Generation Nippondenso


- the NOS Front Frame you have or will arrive soon is a 3RD Generation NipponDenso

fyi ...


try NOT to use a SAND based media to blast the JAPAN Cast ALUMINUM , i suggest a SODA type level media , your results will be like SUNSHINE in the Stars if you use

SODA .......... 💫 ✨ 🌠


i will not say what sand media will look like , only if you ask me to .... :D
 
good morning Robert ,



- Bottom FRAME END is a 2nd Generation Nippondenso ,


- TOP FRAME end is a 3rd Generation Nippondenso


- the NOS Front Frame you have or will arrive soon is a 3RD Generation NipponDenso

fyi ...


try NOT to use a SAND based media to blast the JAPAN Cast ALUMINUM , i suggest a SODA type level media , your results will be like SUNSHINE in the Stars if you use

SODA .......... 💫 ✨ 🌠


i will not say what sand media will look like , only if you ask me to .... :D
Ahhhh, now we are delving into generations. I should of figured that it wouldn't be so easy. All my blasting is done using soda media. Before and after attached.

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So on my existing stator there are some wear marks on the windings in and under the rectifier assembly. What type of insulation would be good to provide some better protection in that area?
 
So on my existing stator there are some wear marks on the windings in and under the rectifier assembly. What type of insulation would be good to provide some better protection in that area?


can you Post close up detailed photos please Robert ,

i can better evaluate and suggest a possible remedy on the exact focus points




not sure what the insulation reference means ?
 
can you Post close up detailed photos please Robert ,

i can better evaluate and suggest a possible remedy on the exact focus points




not sure what the insulation reference means ?
Nothing major, just some wear and tear of the rectifier assembly vibrating on the stator windings.

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Nothing major, just some wear and tear of the rectifier assembly vibrating on the stator windings.

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i do have this :


its the same exact material , as the white cloth loom that's frayed above

i have 2 different ID sizes specs ...


single conductor and 2 conductor

see below tech images , it's OEM on all factory FCS fuel cut solenoids


its technically FIRE PROOF wire loom ..........

will this help Robert ?




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did either stator i sent , are they large enough ?


my gut says you have a larger ID stator ?
Yes, I've already had an issue trying to swap stator into another housing. Yes, it was too big. This alternator works fine (I had it tested after receiving), it just needed the new brush assembly. And the exterior cleaned up.
 
i do have this :


its the same exact material , as the white cloth loom that's frayed above

i have 2 different ID sizes specs ...


single conductor and 2 conductor

see below tech images , it's OEM on all factory FCS fuel cut solenoids


its technically FIRE PROOF wire loom ..........

will this help Robert ?




View attachment 3037108View attachment 3037109View attachment 3037110
Thanks, but I really don't want to desolder anything. I think I might get a can of Liquid electrical tape from Star Brite. Or insulating varnish.

Amazon product ASIN B0000AXNOD
 
Well getting things back together now. After a seating the rotor it seems to slide on pretty easy. I kind of expected a few taps of the hammer. Is there a recommended sealant to hold that bearing from spinning?
 
I assume you mean the bearing inner race is spinning on the rotor? If so, the rotor is below spec and there's nothing that will properly fix it, except turning the rotor and sleeving it. The fit should be light press, on the order of 0.0001-inch. If you can, measure the rotor journal and bearing bore. The fits are in the bearing catalog.

You can try Loctite 262, but if the fit is larger than a size-for-size sliding fit, it won't help. And anything else will ensure it never comes off again.
 
I assume you mean the bearing inner race is spinning on the rotor? If so, the rotor is below spec and there's nothing that will properly fix it, except turning the rotor and sleeving it. The fit should be light press, on the order of 0.0001-inch. If you can, measure the rotor journal and bearing bore. The fits are in the bearing catalog.

You can try Loctite 262, but if the fit is larger than a size-for-size sliding fit, it won't help. And anything else will ensure it never comes off again.
No, the outer race. When placing the rotor with bearing into the housing it seems to slide in the bearing seat fairly easy. I did replace both bearings, but with identical part numbers as the original. I also verified both with calipers and they are the same size. Do they require some bearing mount sealant?
 

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