Alternator remove/replace tips? (1 Viewer)

[lasoundguy]

I noticed my truck started showing between 11.5-12.3V while idling, going up to about 14.3 on the highway (with revs.) Decided to replace the alternator with a new OEM one after getting the battery tested. Any tips or advice for removing the old one and putting the new one in? Do I need to fully remove the power steering reservoir or can I get it pulled out of the way without disconnecting the hoses? Hoping to tear into and knock out this evening. I found lots of threads about redoing the brushes but I decided to just go for it and swap the whole unit in case this was a regulator problem.

Thanks in advance!

 

[KC masterpiece]

I noticed my truck started showing between 11.5-12.3V while idling, going up to about 14.3 on the highway (with revs.) Decided to replace the alternator with a new OEM one after getting the battery tested. Any tips or advice for removing the old one and putting the new one in? Do I need to fully remove the power steering reservoir or can I get it pulled out of the way without disconnecting the hoses? Hoping to tear into and knock out this evening. I found lots of threads about redoing the brushes but I decided to just go for it and swap the whole unit in case this was a regulator problem.

Thanks in advance!

You will need to remove the oil filter and disconnect the power steering reservoir from the intake manifold. After that it will come out with lots of wigglin and jigglin.

 

[sogafarm]

You can just buy new brushes and replace for about $25, takes 5 minutes with alternator out or you can replace them with it in place but it's a tight space. Getting the old one out is a bit difficult compared to other vehicles. I didn't have to remove the oil filter, but I did unbolt the power steering reservoir. Also remember to loosen the correct adjustment bolts on the alternator. Removing the battery also makes it easier.

 

[lasoundguy]

Thanks. Underway and making good progress. Appreciate the tips!

 

[lasoundguy]

Wanted to say thanks again for the pointers and some advice from @Kernal. Took me about two hours. Like @sogafarm I didn't need to remove the oil filter or disconnect the power steering reservoir (just unbolt it and pull it out of the way.) I found the hardest part figuring out the "move/rotate/twist" dance pattern that actually let the alternator come out once it was freed, and also lining back up the upper pivot for the bolt when installing the new one. Ended up using my phone to take pictures of it so I could see which way I needed to jostle the alternator (it's kind of a tight fit.)

The press in plastic clip that holds the electrical wire (not the termination/connection, but the strain relief) was also surprisingly hard to pull out, I had to use a screwdriver--mangled the clip a bit but was able to push it back into shape and pop it into the hole in the new one OK.

A few pics for others messing with it, I know it's a pretty simple job but I was surprised not to find more info here since a lot of the common maintenance things are very well documented.

Once the bolts are all out I used a screwdriver (carefully) to help leverage it out of the upper pivot (held in by tension.)

Note the FSM shows removing the drive bolt adjusting bar (that bracket piece held in by two bolts) but I was able to leave it in place and just remove the adjusting bolt and the locking bolt.

Cell phone shot of the pivot bolt hole almost aligned.

Oh yeah, the battery box removal and reinstallation is kind of a timesuck, I've done it about three times in the past six months so used to it but I have a lot of connections at the battery so putting that all back together again post install was easily 30 minutes of the total. (My terminals and the LCP battery tie down also use standard hardware so part of it is switching between wrenches.)

 

[Malleus]

The biggest benefit to replacing the alternator, IMHO, is the opportunity to thoroughly clean and lubricate the tensioner. This is about the only thing that makes the job easier; everything about this job sucks. The tensioner adjusting hex head bolt, with its T40 internal fitting, is absolutely worthless. You have to be a 10 year old to be able to get your hands in there. And even then, there's no room to swing a wrench. Fortunately, this is one of the few repairs that can only easily be done with the engine out (fuel filter replacement comes to mind). I'm not saying it can't be done, but it's no fun.

 

[wakesetter]

You will need to remove the oil filter and disconnect the power steering reservoir from the intake manifold. After that it will come out with lots of wigglin and jigglin.

Not true. Did mine last week and only took out 2 bolts for alternator. Was a tight fit but I got old me out in 40 minutes, new one in in 30 and it was my first alternator work on my rig. Take out the battery tray and remove the alt there

 

[KC masterpiece]

Not true. Did mine last week and only took out 2 bolts for alternator. Was a tight fit but I got old me out in 40 minutes, new one in in 30 and it was my first alternator work on my rig. Take out the battery tray and remove the alt there i

Good to know. I figured it was easier to pull the oil filter and remove that way since it was being swapped anyways.

If I ever need to replace it in the field I may try that route.

 

[wakesetter]

Yeah, if you're doing an oil change anyway, that's a different story. I was not.

 

[80Lex]

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