FZJ80 / LX450- Alternator Refurbishment or Replacement? (1 Viewer)

[Pericles]

Just bought a remanufactured Denso from Rock Auto for my '93. Planning to swap it out in the next few days. I'll report back once I do - although, simply starting up and working fine at the outset is a pretty low bar.

As far as Rock Auto goes in general, I've always had good experiences with them.

 

[bicycleagent003]

I put a reman Denso in my truck almost 8 years and 35K+ miles ago, and it's been trouble free. I think it's a good option.

 

[TomH]

TL/DR – get a rebuilt Denso.

I’ve been playing with charging problems for a while now. Been a little more serious lately. I have three alternators I’ve been working with for the Land Cruiser and LX450.

Last summer I did a reseal on the Land Cruiser and changed out the brushes and rectifier on the alternator. I did the rectifier because I wasn’t smart enough to realize the voltage regulator was the likely problem. The alternator is working adequately but not perfect.

The LX450 was only getting to mid 13’s on voltage when driving and dropping down into the 12’s at idle, low enough for the ACR for my batteries to open. My main battery was also never getting fully charged but it’s also not getting driven a lot and seems to have a parasitic draw.

I took my spare alternator apart and tested the rectifier and determined it wasn’t working so checked the spare rectifier and it tested good. Swapped the parts, put it back together, installed in the LX450 and it made it about 5 miles before it died completely.

So, I ordered a voltage regulator from ebay and installed it in the original LX450 alternator and swapped it with the dead alternator. It worked great, 14+ volts while driving and high 13’s at idle. It was working so well I ordered another voltage regulator to install in the Land Cruiser. Unfortunately it didn’t last long. A couple days later it’s still working great while driving but dropping to as low as 12.3 volts at idle.

There is a test procedure in the FSM that I have now gone through with the spare alternator. Everything tests fine except maybe the rectifier. If I check using the diode mode on the meter it tests fine. Doing it per the procedure and only checking continuity it fails.

I’ve now spent over a $100 on parts and a bunch of time and I still have three alternators that don’t work as well as I would expect a rebuilt to work.

 

[bonestock]

TL/DR – get a rebuilt Denso.

I’ve been playing with charging problems for a while now. Been a little more serious lately. I have three alternators I’ve been working with for the Land Cruiser and LX450.

Last summer I did a reseal on the Land Cruiser and changed out the brushes and rectifier on the alternator. I did the rectifier because I wasn’t smart enough to realize the voltage regulator was the likely problem. The alternator is working adequately but not perfect.

The LX450 was only getting to mid 13’s on voltage when driving and dropping down into the 12’s at idle, low enough for the ACR for my batteries to open. My main battery was also never getting fully charged but it’s also not getting driven a lot and seems to have a parasitic draw.

I took my spare alternator apart and tested the rectifier and determined it wasn’t working so checked the spare rectifier and it tested good. Swapped the parts, put it back together, installed in the LX450 and it made it about 5 miles before it died completely.

So, I ordered a voltage regulator from ebay and installed it in the original LX450 alternator and swapped it with the dead alternator. It worked great, 14+ volts while driving and high 13’s at idle. It was working so well I ordered another voltage regulator to install in the Land Cruiser. Unfortunately it didn’t last long. A couple days later it’s still working great while driving but dropping to as low as 12.3 volts at idle.

There is a test procedure in the FSM that I have now gone through with the spare alternator. Everything tests fine except maybe the rectifier. If I check using the diode mode on the meter it tests fine. Doing it per the procedure and only checking continuity it fails.

I’ve now spent over a $100 on parts and a bunch of time and I still have three alternators that don’t work as well as I would expect a rebuilt to work.

View attachment 2608927

View attachment 2608928

You, sir, seem quite capable. Thank you for the detailed account of your trials and tribulations.

 

[woodsman 44]

I just replaced my brushes and the 2 bearings...works like new and quieter because of new bearings

There a couple vids on youtube that help you with how to get bearings off and back on with the washers in the right placement which is very important on install

 

[woodsman 44]

I just replaced my brushes and the 2 bearings...works like new and quieter because of new bearings

There a couple vids on youtube that help you with how to get bearings off and back on with the washers in the right placement which is very important on install

 

[DivByZero]

View attachment 2609138

I should really stop coming to this forum. My alternator is working just fine, but now I find myself planning a rebuild and checking on prices for parts! Anyone know of an 80's anonymous group? I think I need one.

 

[clx16]

When I find a denso alternator at the pull-apart i grab them and end up rebuilding them, painting them up nice. Not that i need one but when you get a 200 dollar alternator for 15 dollars, you can't pass that up!

 

[bonestock]

When I find a denso alternator at the pull-apart i grab them and end up rebuilding them, painting them up nice. Not that i need one but when you get a 200 dollar alternator for 15 dollars, you can't pass that up!

Got one available?

 

[clx16]

Mine came with a bosch brand that died. I put new brushes in it, but never reinstalled. i installed a photoman bracket and tundra alternator. it might work but never tested it after putting in new brushes.

I got the brushes from :

531 N. Jefferson St. Milledgeville, GA 31061 Toll Free 800.272.8755 Fax 478.452.1451​

 

[Spdstr280Z]

My .02, I have spent a lot of money on OEM parts in the last couple of years, but the alternator and starter for my rebuild are Denso from Rock Auto, Denso built the original, they do a good job on remans. There is some discussion about whether the Toyota remans (done by Denso by all accounts) are held to higher standards, but no one seems to have any proof of that. Now, Toyota or Denso are all I would do outside of an emergency. Chain store remans from other brands are generally crap. Lifetime warranties are great, but do you enjoy changing it every year and want to gamble on where you will be when it dies ?

FWIW, I would have kept my old alternator to rebuild and keep as a spare, but somehow the case was cracked.

Good luck !

Jason

 

[bonestock]

My .02, I have spent a lot of money on OEM parts in the last couple of years, but the alternator and starter for my rebuild are Denso from Rock Auto, Denso built the original, they do a good job on remans. There is some discussion about whether the Toyota remans (done by Denso by all accounts) are held to higher standards, but no one seems to have any proof of that. Now, Toyota or Denso are all I would do outside of an emergency. Chain store remans from other brands are generally crap. Lifetime warranties are great, but do you enjoy changing it every year and want to gamble on where you will be when it dies ?

FWIW, I would have kept my old alternator to rebuild and keep as a spare, but somehow the case was cracked.

Good luck !

Jason

Yessir! Just ordered the Denso unit from Rock Auto. I’ll get brushes from the Stealership for the OEM one.

 

[MrMikeyG]

A quick aside of sorts here. A couple of forum members have posted partial bits, and someone posted the whole section from the FSM that is CH-** Is that some of the "bonus" content in the 2 volume FSM ?

 

[jonheld]

A quick aside of sorts here. A couple of forum members have posted partial bits, and someone posted the whole section from the FSM that is CH-** Is that some of the "bonus" content in the 2 volume FSM ?

In the 1996 FSM, CH-Charging System. It's all in there.

 

[whaler]

You say your voltage dropped to 13.5? When? At start-up or an Hour into a drive?

I thought it was normal for the regulator to lower the voltage after significant charging has been done while driving. For example, I start truck and I see 14.1V. after 30 miles of driving (if im using my lights, AC, electronics) ill normally see 13.5V or around there.

 

[jonheld]

You say your voltage dropped to 13.5? When? At start-up or an Hour into a drive?

I thought it was normal for the regulator to lower the voltage after significant charging has been done while driving. For example, I start truck and I see 14.1V. after 30 miles of driving (if im using my lights, AC, electronics) ill normally see 13.5V or around there.

Voltage will vary based on battery type and state of charge.

 

[flintknapper]

View attachment 2609138

^^^^^

THIS is the correct way to evaluate an alternator (for rebuild). Tear it down, look at it, clean it, test it. NOT just throw brushes in it as is often parroted here (even if that is all that is needed in the end). As above....when I did mine, only Bearings (Koyo's) and brushes (OEM) were required. Original alternator 23 years old, my cruiser had 316K on it at the time.

Good job Woodsman!

 

[clx16]

A spare set of brushes are nice to have in the vehicle however when i rebuild them i usually find at least one bearing that is ready to be replaced. The windings are always filthy and holding more heat than they should, and on an 80 you might find them full of oil and dirt from the distributor. I don't have the best source for nsk or koyo bearings but you can always order using toyota part number but it might not be the best price.

You don't really need a press for the bearings if you are creative with threaded rod and washers.

Everyone should have threaded rod and washers and all 80 owners are nuts already anyway.

 

[flintknapper]

I don't have the best source for nsk or koyo bearings but you can always order using toyota part number but it might not be the best price.

^^^^^

 

[woodsman 44]

^^^^^

THIS is the correct way to evaluate an alternator (for rebuild). Tear it down, look at it, clean it, test it. NOT just throw brushes in it as is often parroted here (even if that is all that is needed in the end). As above....when I did mine, only Bearings (Koyo's) and brushes (OEM) were required. Original alternator 23 years old, my cruiser had 316K on it at the time.

Good job Woodsman!

Thanks, it was your build thread that gave me the kick to do this myself!