Vehicle:
Fj62
2H
12v
Two batteries- not isolated
Wilson switch
Factory alternator connected as vacuum pump
GM "One-wire" Alternator connected to driver's side battery
Problem:
My glow relay (ford starter junk) started giving me trouble and I was having starting issues. It would no start and just crank because my glow system wasnt working. This was about 3 weeks ago. After it would start I could watch my volt meter showing the batteries charging. I installed a new 200A continuous rated relay. Truck starts great but I it seemed to be cranking slowly. When I installed the relay I also noticed the started connection on the passenger terminal was poor so I installed a new terminal.
The problem continued and I finally noticed according to my volt meter I was not charging. I got my little cheater box and it said the regulator was shot. I called the local parts store and purchased a Delco 10si. I got it delivered and clocked it. When I got home I connected it. Batt to the wire that was on the old one-wire, terminal two to the batt for constant 12v and then I connected #1 to switched 12v. No charge. I pulled it apart and the rotor and stator seemed ok. When I would full-field it the voltage would jump from 11.9 to 13.5 then back down to 12.5 and then 11.9 in about two seconds. I took it back to the store and bench tested it. Bad diodes.
I figured I would upgrade and turned it in and got a 12si 94A. I went home and hooked it up, no charge. Took it back and bench tested it, all good.
The wiring is super simple but for some reason it wont work. I have put jumper cables to the ground. I have jumpered to my car for another good battery. I have built a switched wire with a diode and resistor and I have tried it with a light, no go. Everything is the same as before but I just have to turn on the regulator. I have tried full-fielding this one but I dont get any change. If I hook my car up while running it jumps to 13.5v so the batteries seem ok and there is no draw. Right now I have an idiot light hooked up and it operates correctly, key on - light on, start truck - light off.
Wiring : http://www.hitupmyspot.com/s/image/...jpg/title/10SI+and+12SI+alternator+wiring.htm
I went back out tonight and with it nice and quiet outside I can hear the engine bog as the alt kicks in. The voltage will jump from 11.9 to 12.2 or so. I am starting to think I may need new batteries. I was trying not to replace them since the alt was much cheaper. The truck has two Optima deep-cycle marine batteries in it but I am not going to put those back in, too expensive. My only problem with this is that when I jumped my IS300 to the truck the voltage went to 13.5 so I dont see why this alt will not do that even when it tests good.
Fj62
2H
12v
Two batteries- not isolated
Wilson switch
Factory alternator connected as vacuum pump
GM "One-wire" Alternator connected to driver's side battery
Problem:
My glow relay (ford starter junk) started giving me trouble and I was having starting issues. It would no start and just crank because my glow system wasnt working. This was about 3 weeks ago. After it would start I could watch my volt meter showing the batteries charging. I installed a new 200A continuous rated relay. Truck starts great but I it seemed to be cranking slowly. When I installed the relay I also noticed the started connection on the passenger terminal was poor so I installed a new terminal.
The problem continued and I finally noticed according to my volt meter I was not charging. I got my little cheater box and it said the regulator was shot. I called the local parts store and purchased a Delco 10si. I got it delivered and clocked it. When I got home I connected it. Batt to the wire that was on the old one-wire, terminal two to the batt for constant 12v and then I connected #1 to switched 12v. No charge. I pulled it apart and the rotor and stator seemed ok. When I would full-field it the voltage would jump from 11.9 to 13.5 then back down to 12.5 and then 11.9 in about two seconds. I took it back to the store and bench tested it. Bad diodes.
I figured I would upgrade and turned it in and got a 12si 94A. I went home and hooked it up, no charge. Took it back and bench tested it, all good.
The wiring is super simple but for some reason it wont work. I have put jumper cables to the ground. I have jumpered to my car for another good battery. I have built a switched wire with a diode and resistor and I have tried it with a light, no go. Everything is the same as before but I just have to turn on the regulator. I have tried full-fielding this one but I dont get any change. If I hook my car up while running it jumps to 13.5v so the batteries seem ok and there is no draw. Right now I have an idiot light hooked up and it operates correctly, key on - light on, start truck - light off.
Wiring : http://www.hitupmyspot.com/s/image/...jpg/title/10SI+and+12SI+alternator+wiring.htm
I went back out tonight and with it nice and quiet outside I can hear the engine bog as the alt kicks in. The voltage will jump from 11.9 to 12.2 or so. I am starting to think I may need new batteries. I was trying not to replace them since the alt was much cheaper. The truck has two Optima deep-cycle marine batteries in it but I am not going to put those back in, too expensive. My only problem with this is that when I jumped my IS300 to the truck the voltage went to 13.5 so I dont see why this alt will not do that even when it tests good.
Last edited:
