Alternator help (1 Viewer)

[alaska60]

can we also use a internal reg alt from a 1985 fj60? its a 50 amp alt.

anyone?

Im assuming its fine.....

 

[alaska60]

I guess what I mean by that too is, What would the steps be to go with an internal reg alt? and what is the advantage of it as well?

 

[fj404life]

bsevans I like your way of thinking! Someday I would like to upgrade my 30amp as I have a winch and aux lights etc now. Bypassing the stock wiring is what I had in mind too. I like to leave stuff reversable if I can!

 

[73FJ40Project]

Agrreed

I agree with this too, I am currently working with my mech on this. Although he stated in an e-mail that my current alternoator is a 60 amp and should be fine. I don't think he has looked at based on the posts here and the pic I have posted.

Might work fine but I don't trust remanufactured electrical parts from any auto parts store. I would rather go w/the OEM unit Jim C. suggested in post 9.

John

 

[73FJ40Project]

Thanks,

Thanks, you had some good ideas here. I have resent them to my mech for advice.
I have one questons though, I am looking at your avatar, assuming that is your rig, and see only a winch, so why 200 amp alt?

I went with the 200 amp Mean Green that is a bolt-in with an internal VR. I've had it for a number of years with no issues. I mounted an aux fuse panel where the original external VR was mounted on the firewall which supports various critical components. As you can see, the Mean Green came with a dual pulley that supports the Toyota width belts (17mm). I ran 4 gauge heavy duty welding cable from the alternator to the battery. I also ran 12 gauge wire from the main fuse panel to the internal VR that turns it on with the ignition key. I went to the GM dealership and got the connector kit for this alternator that uses Teflon coated wires. It is by far the best connector you can find. Once this alternator gets above the initial idle the voltage stays above 13v (more like 14 volts) and the lights do not dim at idle. Basically, I bypassed the wiring harness associated with the original VR and alternator without removing the old w
iring. I wrapped the old VR and alternator connectors with electrical tape to keep them clean and maintain the option to retrofit.

 

[1911]

I went with the 200 amp Mean Green that is a bolt-in with an internal VR. I've had it for a number of years with no issues. ... As you can see, the Mean Green came with a dual pulley that supports the Toyota width belts (17mm). I ran 4 gauge heavy duty welding cable from the alternator to the battery. ... Once this alternator gets above the initial idle the voltage stays above 13v (more like 14 volts) and the lights do not dim at idle.

Did the same thing for mine, and am very happy with it. Runs upgraded lights, multiple ham and cb radios, fridge, winch, ARB air compressor, GPS, stereo amplifier, etc. with no issues and no dimming of lights at idle.

 

[bsevans]

Thanks, you had some good ideas here. I have resent them to my mech for advice.
I have one questons though, I am looking at your avatar, assuming that is your rig, and see only a winch, so why 200 amp alt?

I run Mean Green Alternators in both of my 4X4s. The current draw by layer when the winch is winding is 73 amps to wind cable, 155 amps at 2000 lbs of pull, 215 amps at 4000 lbs of pull, 285 amps at 6000 lbs of pull and at 8000 pounds of pull, 345 amps. Just my opinion, but I think Mean Green makes the best alternators you can buy. The heavy duty model in my Turbo Diesel will output over 230 amps under heavy loads and 120 amps at idle. Personally, I would not invest in a replacement alternator that puts out less than 180 amps if you are serious about using your winch. I would rather have too much capacity rather than marginal capacity at maximum load. Also, I run Hella lights with PIAA ultra bright high output bulbs and a painless headlight harness and with this alternator you would think the sun had come up when the high beams are on.

 

[DSRTRDR]

purportedly, the amp gauge cannot handle more than stock 45 amp draw - don't route wiring with a higher amp draw through the ammeter

 

[73FJ40Project]

where to get new ammeter?

Thanks to everyone on this thread and help in solving my alt problems. Here is what I have decided on for this project.
I will have 10 55w halogens, warn 9000i winch, and an on board 12v air compressor, this is in addition to the standard electrical comps.
Total amps for lights is estimated at 45, winch pulling at 9000lbs (max) pulls 750 amps, air compressor unknown. I plan on mounting the Mean Green alt (200amps), dual batteries Optima Yellow top 8051-160 D31A (900 cold cranking amps each) wired parallel and an aux fuse box. The last factor for this is the ammeter. Does anyone know of a good after market ammeter I could use?
I know this may be overkill, a bit, LOL. But preparing for worst case scenario.

purportedly, the amp gauge cannot handle more than stock 45 amp draw - don't route wiring with a higher amp draw through the ammeter

 

[4x4Poet]

10 55w halogens!!

May I suggest substituting far fewer LED lamps. Most LED lamps draw few amps with superior lumen output compared to similar halogens. Also long lasting. Would help reduce total amp load.

These folks make tough LED lamps: Rigid Industries

An internet search on "off-road LED lights" finds other companies' products.

I've been wanting to see if one of these JLC Lighting LED bulbs will retro-fit into FJ40 reverse light housings:
jlclightings CREE-Q5-LED-Reverse-Light-Bulbs-1156
If they work (or another model), I might not need extra reverse lights. Or only one extra LED reverse lamp.

Good info on choosing an optima: Optima faq

 

[4x4Poet]

And, if money is no object:

12v LED Headlamp

truck-lite.com catalog

 

[73FJ40Project]

$$$ object

HOLY $hit Batman...those are $263.00 each! I mught sub smaller LED for four of them, back-up and side lights, but 2 will be on the winch and 4 front facing from the roof rack.

And, if money is no object:

12v LED Headlamp

truck-lite.com catalog

 

[1911]

purportedly, the amp gauge cannot handle more than stock 45 amp draw - don't route wiring with a higher amp draw through the ammeter

Does anyone know of a good after market ammeter I could use?

Don't know, but I replaced my stock ammeter with an Autometer voltmeter, using a kit from amaurer here on Mud:

 

[bsevans]

The last factor for this is the ammeter. Does anyone know of a good after market ammeter I could use?
I know this may be overkill, a bit, LOL. But preparing for worst case scenario.

When I installed the Mean Green alternator I bypassed the stock ammeter gauge and installed a VDO voltage gauge in the dash. With my current set up, an ammeter would not see the current draw of the headlights (aux fuse panel). I think the largest current draw that goes through the main fuse panel is the DUI HEI, the fan and the Hella horns. I really do not see the point in setting up an ammeter with an external shunt to handle the possible current from a high output alternator. I'm happy with a voltage gauge, period.

 

[FJ40Jim]

can we also use a internal reg alt from a 1985 fj60? its a 50 amp alt.

Yes. And they are $50 reman from rockauto, with internal regulator. And they are 60A.

 

[alaska60]

Yes. And they are $50 reman from rockauto, with internal regulator. And they are 60A.

jim,
Is there anything special that needs to be done to the existing wiring to accept running an internal regulated ALT. Or is it just bolt on and go?

 

[FJ40Jim]

There is a push on terminal on the back of the alt labeled IG. A switched ignition 12V source has to be connected to the IG terminal to tell the alt to charge when the key is turned on. This can be a modified wire from the original harness, or it can be a new wire from the coil hot terminal right to the back of the alt.

 

[alaska60]

Thank you kind sir!