Battery gauge jumps up and down when at stop light. Also does it when I hit the window switch. Is this normal? Loose wire? Alternator on way to grave yard? See videos.
Alternator going??? 1989 fj62
- Thread starter RojoFJ62
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check your fused links and grounds. check the battery itself. take the alt to be tested at the old rebuilders barn- NOT THE local chiddy parts store with zit covered kids who don't have drivers licenses... and if it is dying- REBUILD IT. far better than an aftermarket junker... it'll cost about 185 for a rebuild; most of that is for the voltage regulator...
The dash voltage indicator isn't worth a bag of Trump promises. Use a good quality multimeter to check voltages coming off the alternator and the battery. IIRC, the alt should be putting out a steady ~13.5V at idle, and you should be getting ~12.8 at the battery. You can use the meter to do a continuity/resistance test of the fusible links on the battery as well as the grounds.
It is normal for the voltage to drop when you add a load - the higher the load the more the drop. Especially at idle - the 80 am alternator on the 62 puts that out at ~2000rpm +. At idle it could be as low as 25amps. Turn signals, wipers, will cause a cyclic voltage fluctuation. The window switch is a large load. Super77 is right, the OEM gauge is at best directionally helpful. You can check your alt at idle and at 2000 rpm, both with and without loads. Post back, and we can give you a pretty good idea of how your alternator is doing.
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Thanks guys. Will try to get to this soon and post back.
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So...switched out my rusted battery tray today and saw the underside of my fusible links....I take it these are shot?
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Here is the pic
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What do you mean "continuity"?
You have some funky electrical symptoms - which can be related to a failing or failed fusable link. Your fusable link looks like it's been cooked, so my suggestion is to test the fusable link to see if it's functional. The test device you need is an electrical multi-meter - available for less than $20 at any auto parts store. It has many different tests you can do, in the case of your fusable you want to test for continuity - ie to see if current is flowing through the fusable link or if it's burned out. A fusable link is a slow to fail fuse. It will take higher current longer. The test is easy to do. If you have no continuity, then you know your fusable is fried and that's the source of the problems.
Continuity test.
Doug, OP said his dash gauge is jumping, so continuity may be intermittent - it maybe different in motion than static if the FL connector is borked. Good to hook up the meter's leads and give the harness a wiggle.
RojoFJ62, see my recent post on fusible links. Post #36 in the thread. Since you likely may need to replace them, you have a couple of options. Lots of other info here if you search "fusible links."
Bear in mind, this may not necessarily be the solution to your original problem, but the FLs you show in your pic are in bad shape, so it's as good a place as any to start.
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I have the multi-meter but have never used it. Where do I put the leads to test continuity and FL's? Thanks and sorry for the newbe question.
Measure ohms across the individual links, themselves. The links are like a high amperage slow blow fuse. Treat the links as tho they were a glass fuse. Hth
Click here. As Lambcrusher said, think of a a fusible link kind of like a fuse. Same basic idea.
continuity= continuous; as in, the conductor(or circuit) is continuous. 0 or low ohms = closed circuit; or continuity/ infinant(OL on a digital meter) or high ohms = open; or lack of continuity
Coolerman
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Wow, those connectors for the fusible links have seen better days for sure. I also noticed that your wiring does not match a 1988 FJ62 fusible link assembly I recently rebuilt. I have attached a crude drawing of how it should be wired. I'm not sure exactly what has been done to yours, but I see two 1.0 mm fusible links attached to the large white wire and the OEM setup only uses one.
The only real way to fix your wiring back correctly would be to cut everything that is melted or hacked up off, use aftermarket high current connectors spliced back into the OEM harness (or locate some good used ones), then use the correct size fusible links (or as close as possible. I have never found the .85 mm fusible link Toyota used. .8 is what I have found)
The only real way to fix your wiring back correctly would be to cut everything that is melted or hacked up off, use aftermarket high current connectors spliced back into the OEM harness (or locate some good used ones), then use the correct size fusible links (or as close as possible. I have never found the .85 mm fusible link Toyota used. .8 is what I have found)
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Mine is a 1989. Same set up for a 1989?
Could you build something for me and I'll buy it from you? Wiring is not my strong suit. Otherwise, what do you think about something like this...
Look at this on eBay:
Land Cruiser Fj 62 Fusible Link
Land Cruiser Fj 62 Fusible Link
Could you build something for me and I'll buy it from you? Wiring is not my strong suit. Otherwise, what do you think about something like this...
Look at this on eBay:
Land Cruiser Fj 62 Fusible Link
Land Cruiser Fj 62 Fusible Link
Hmmm...anyone know of this fusible link in the eBay ad as a legit OEM replacement?? I might be tempted to grab a couple of these for spares for future use.
Looks like it butt splices to the factory harness, seems like it would work. That said, if Coolerman is willing to build, I'd buy from him first
