Alternator for bj40 1980 (1 Viewer)

[bj401980]

I am hoping for some help in finding a replacement for the alternator in my bj40 1980 (late 1979). The engine is a 3B engine. Which alternators can be used? Are one to prefer? Where to buy online? All help is appreciated.

 

[bj401980]

I forgot to mention that it's 24V and that the old alternator has an oil pump mounted in the back.

 

[roma042987]

posting your location would help

 

[bj401980]

Location Norway.

 

[JohnnyC]

Look up NPR alternators... You want one with a vac pump... That's what's on the back of it

 

[bj401980]

Thanks for the quick replies. Is this a correct one?

http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/250428967034?nav=SEARCH

Anyone who has a seller on eBay they'd recommend?

 

[JohnnyC]

Being a gasser guy I do not know which exact one works best... The diesel section would be able to ans that for ya... I know just enough to get in trouble

Calling @lostmarbles (he most likely would know)

 

[roma042987]

EBay will probably be your best bet could try ebay Australia. I believe roodawgs 4x4 spares sells internationally.

 

[bj40green]

My EPC (Electronic Parts Catalog) tells me that your part number is 27020-56032 for a 1980 European Market LHD BJ40.
Alternator 24V 20Amp. Search with Google for OEM or a replacement with this number.
https://www.google.com/search?q=270...=aTciVIv8LsLZoATchoCoAg&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAA&dpr=1

Rudi

 

[lostmarbles]

This thread (in my link) is related to an H-series engine rather than B-series but it gives you an indication of what you can find from searching ih8mud in the diesel/24V section..

And being H-series or B-series shouldn't make any difference because the advice you get will be much the same.

And if you have to buy a new alternator, you'll seldom get away without having to modify at least something..

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/2h-24v-alternator-vacuum-pump-sources.387887/

 

[bj401980]

Hello,

Thank you for all the good feedback! I ended up buying a NPR 4BE1 24V with vacuum pump that I have mounted. What I now are missing is how to bypass the existing external regulator as the new alternator has a built in regulator. Do anyone know how the wiring of this is done? And if one needs to add a fuse, what the amp is to be?

Thank you in advance.

 

[JohnnyC]

The one person who would know is @bj40green ... I hear he eats electrons and spits it out as bytes


There was a guy named Tesla ... Rudi made him feel inferior

Seriously Rudi should know

 

[bj40green]

Calling Norway from a hot and sunny Costa Rica.......
Hi, can you post a picture of the NPR so I can see what connections it has?
4BE1 stands for the model number of the Isuzu NPR truck, that doesn't help.
Maybe you can find a label/sticker on the alternator.

Rudi

 

[bj401980]

Hello Costa Rica!

Thank you for your reply. Here is a picture of the LR240-401

 

[bj40green]

Good,
Top left is S (Sense) this terminal is sensing the battery voltage and takes care of the regulating.
Top right is L (Lamp) this terminal is connected to your "charge indicator light" if you have one.
If not, you can easily add one if you like.
Bottom vertical is IGN (Ignition) this terminal gets 24V switched from the ignition key.

I'll draw a diagram later this evening (my time zone) I'm a bit busy right now.

Hasta mas tarde (till later).

Rudi

 

[bj401980]

Thank you so much for your help! Looking forward to the diagram. I do not have a warning light, but it might be a good idea to install one. What do I do with the wires connected to the external voltage regulator? (By the way all the wires are the original colors I believe, if that makes it easier to explain)

Cheers!

 

[bj40green]

Here is the wiring diagram for the Isuzu 24V alternator with internal VR.

Disconnect the "old" external VR and leave it where it is.
You're looking now at the 6 pin FEMALE harness connector.
Run a new wire from the Black Yellow terminal to the IGN terminal on the Alt. Use male and female spade connectors.
Run a new wire from the S terminal on the Alt to one of the other fusible links (not the one that is connected to the existing cable from Alt to battery. See picture below for explanation.

If you want to add a charge warning light..... follow the green circuit.
The lamp is hooked up between the switched 24V from the IGN key and the S terminal.
When the engine is not running, the S terminal is LOW (0V) and the light is on.
When the engine is running, the S terminal is HIGH (24V) so the light has 24V on both sides and is off.
When the alt is defective, the S terminal is LOW (0V) and the light is on.

Leave all the old wiring where it is. That way you keep it as stock as possible.

Good luck,

Rudi

 

[bj401980]

Thank you so much for all the help, Rudi, it was just the information I was looking for. Thank you for taking your time to help! Taking your advise the alternator is wired up and running perfectly. I thought I'd take some pictures to add to this thread to show theory in practice, but I stumbled upon a small problem when taking the car out for a bit more than a short drive as one of the oil hoses broke off the alternator and painted the whole engine apartment. The pictures will have to wait.

As this replacement alternator is a bit shorter and has different connections than the original, one of the oil hoses comes up to short. I did not have any replacement for this hose so tried extending it with a quick fix, but it did not hold when the engine oil built up heat and pressure. Does anyone know where I can get new (longer) braided hoses to replace the old one(s)?

 

[Jollopy41]

Thank you so much for all the help, Rudi, it was just the information I was looking for. Thank you for taking your time to help! Taking your advise the alternator is wired up and running perfectly. I thought I'd take some pictures to add to this thread to show theory in practice, but I stumbled upon a small problem when taking the car out for a bit more than a short drive as one of the oil hoses broke off the alternator and painted the whole engine apartment. The pictures will have to wait.

As this replacement alternator is a bit shorter and has different connections than the original, one of the oil hoses comes up to short. I did not have any replacement for this hose so tried extending it with a quick fix, but it did not hold when the engine oil built up heat and pressure. Does anyone know where I can get new (longer) braided hoses to replace the old one(s)?

Hi BJ401980,

I l've got a 1981 BJ41 w/ a 24v electrical system. The alternator is about to go. Since you have successfuly installed an Isuzu NPR 24v alternator, what possible modifications have you done to fit in your LC? Are these drop-in alternators that you could just slap in and youre good to go? Or do they need some minor modificatiom? Hope to hear from you soon.

Best regards,

Carlo

 

[WDT Siri]

I have successfully swapped a Hitachi(4HF1) ,24V, 60A, with the vacuum pump, for the stock 25A Alternator of my 1982 BJ40.

This 4HFI Alternator originally comes with Isuzu 4HFI Engine.