Alternator blues....

Joined
Dec 3, 2009
Messages
20
Location
Madison
Okay....it's been awhile since I actually posted here. Why? Because my FJ60 has been keeping me a bit busy. Overheating, new thermostat, new Fan Clutch, re-building carb, trying to get some welding done on the frame and patching a few weak spots in the floor and wheel wells, etc, etc,etc. And now...my alternator goes. I have done a bunch of searching, but it's all pretty much the same story, "why the heck are you driving a truck from '82?" usually followed by we don't have your part. And when they do..at 3 times the price it should be. My question, has anyone found a "standard" alternator that will work with a Cruiser? I had a clutch slave issue earlier (remember kids, keep your old throw-out rod for the new slave) and ended up using a slave for a 1982 Toyota truck. Not Cruiser specific. And have had non issues at all. So what are the odds that there is a ALT that is not specific and will work? Just curious to see if others out there have gone through the same thing and if there are successes. :)
 
Joined
Feb 16, 2010
Messages
157
Location
MICHIGAN, T.C.
My dad had a used AC delco lying aroung when my started to fail. I flipped it upside down. created a bushing for the lower bolt and swapped the pulley over. Also had to purchase a pigtail wire connector from napa for like $4.00. Been fine for over a year. with more output as a bonus.
100_1035.jpg
 
Joined
Dec 3, 2009
Messages
20
Location
Madison
That is awesome!! I may have a few options for that kinda thing now. I will have to dig through my buddies shop and see what he's got laying around. :) Thanks!
 
Joined
Jan 26, 2006
Messages
205
Location
Denver
I just had my alternator go out I was shopping around for a new one but then I found a local guy that rebuilds them and has a good rep. So I went down got a rebuild with all oem parts for 70 bucks and it is pumping out 98 amps on there tester I would say this is a much better route then buying some generic and throwing it in imho.
 
Joined
Apr 23, 2005
Messages
3,330
Location
Oregon
I love my cruiser, but I have to say that I think the stock alternators are dogs. They put out very little and cost more. When they die, I replace them with something else. I've used everything from GM/Delco to Leece Neville. All are superior in my opinion. And don't get me going on hopping up the stock alternator to put out more amps. It's still a bad idea...
 
Joined
Jan 8, 2004
Messages
2,122
Location
Emerald City
I just had my alternator go out I was shopping around for a new one but then I found a local guy that rebuilds them and has a good rep. So I went down got a rebuild with all oem parts for 70 bucks and it is pumping out 98 amps on there tester I would say this is a much better route then buying some generic and throwing it in imho.

I have a couple spare alts and found a local guy who can rewind/rebuild mine as well. Probably do this for mine at some point, BUT also want to remind you the rewound higher output alt will not have the lifespan of a regular (depending on high output use). This from my local alt guy - just FYI.

I also have a MG alt in mine and it's been great. Though always good to have a spare (have 1 BNIB ND, plus a couple old OEMs).

GL!
 
Joined
Oct 11, 2008
Messages
856
Location
Tucson, AZ
Numbers on the alts?

For those that have retrofitted a GM Delco alternator onto their rigs, would you mind posting any numbers or what year/model the alt is supposed to fit? I want to replace my OEM ND with something that puts out more amps, since when running lights, a/c fan, and wipers I' keep watching my volts take a significant hit.

Also, what steps you used to address the pigtail adapter to the toyota wire harness would be appreciated.

Glenn
 

lovetoski

SILVER Star
Joined
Jul 12, 2003
Messages
4,649
For those that have retrofitted a GM Delco alternator onto their rigs, would you mind posting any numbers or what year/model the alt is supposed to fit? I want to replace my OEM ND with something that puts out more amps, since when running lights, a/c fan, and wipers I' keep watching my volts take a significant hit.

Also, what steps you used to address the pigtail adapter to the toyota wire harness would be appreciated.

Glenn

The tech Links section has a number of GM alt installs. Also the 40/55 forum has a sticky w/threads on lots of mods, including ones for alternators.
 
Joined
Oct 11, 2008
Messages
856
Location
Tucson, AZ
Tech links needs to be updated

The tech Links section has a number of GM alt installs. Also the 40/55 forum has a sticky w/threads on lots of mods, including ones for alternators.

Had an eyeball, most of the interesting looking ones are dead links. I'll poke around in the 40 forum records to see if there is anything recent. What I'm trying to get (cake and eat it) is a fairly easy install that still allows the OEM gauges to work.

Thanks,

Glenn in Tucson
 

REKCUT

SILVER Star
Joined
Jan 5, 2005
Messages
4,878
Location
Rogersville, Mo.
Dont know what part of the country your in but Orielly's has lifetime warranty Alt's fro around $60. Been a year or so, so the price may have gone up a tad but its a very easy option.
 
Joined
Oct 11, 2008
Messages
856
Location
Tucson, AZ
Been looking on the 40/55 forum

Dont know what part of the country your in but Orielly's has lifetime warranty Alt's fro around $60. Been a year or so, so the price may have gone up a tad but its a very easy option.

Found a couple of options, now calling around for pricing.

The 12SI alternators at 94 amps are pretty common, and are available off of a couple of mid's 80's midsize for parts places that don't stock by part number, but by make/model.

The alternator I have current specs on is a AC Delco 321-269 that was standard on an 85 Buick Rivera with the Heavy Duty package and A/C. Price at my local O'Riellys/Checkers was 94.99 for a reman, with lifetime warranty. Plus a $15.00 core charge. This model can have the back plate rotated so that the connections are easily accessible and don't cause wiring routing concerns, or possible shorts against mounting brackets.

Going to see what else I can get in terms of price from other vendors - the links in the 40/55 section indicated that there are also some 78 amp alternators that will work. I'm thinking that since the majority of my concern is amps at idle, I'd rather have the higher output capacity, and thus a higher amount even at lower rpm.

YMMV.

Glenn in Tucson
 
Joined
Feb 16, 2010
Messages
157
Location
MICHIGAN, T.C.
For those that have retrofitted a GM Delco alternator onto their rigs, would you mind posting any numbers or what year/model the alt is supposed to fit? I want to replace my OEM ND with something that puts out more amps, since when running lights, a/c fan, and wipers I' keep watching my volts take a significant hit.

Also, what steps you used to address the pigtail adapter to the toyota wire harness would be appreciated.

Glenn
I am not certain what vehicle or model i have I think it came from a 86 chevy dually w/ a 454. The pig tail harness came with a red and a white wire. The red went to the white wire on the stock harness , and the white wire on the pig tail went to the black w/ yellow wire on the stock harness. ( Red to the exciter wire and white to the gauge wire) if i remember correctly. But this setup works fine with stock gauges. Sorry i dont know the model alt. I would think many GMs are the same.
 

Spook50

Skål
Supporting Vendor
Joined
Feb 16, 2005
Messages
6,552
Location
Spokane, WA
Seems to me like it's a lot easier to find aftermarket/upgrade options for pre-FJ62 Cruisers. I had a hell of a time trying to find anything that would work, when one year my folks found a Beck/Arnley replacement that they designed from scratch because there were hardly any cores available for them to reman. the "new" alts were 120A, but used a s***ty voltage regulator that fried within a year, and even when it work wasn't stable at all. So I managed to finally track down a Nippondenso regulator and put it in my B/A unit, and it's worked great for a good long time now. Great part about the B/A units is that the VR is just mounted under a protective shield on the back of the alt, as opposed to inside of the housing, like in the OEM units. It's also bolted into place instead of soldered (also, like the OEM units).

I know this thread is about a 60 but I'm just throwin the info out there :D
 
Joined
Dec 3, 2009
Messages
20
Location
Madison
Jeepers...that's allot of info. Thanks Ya'll!! Here's the new skinny. Got the "new" Alt (thanks Steve & Darryl @ Smart Toyota) and got it in, and....well, nothing. Jumped the beast and eureka!! It runs!! and the volt meter in the dash reads 12! Yippie!! and now the volt meter has bottomed out. Crud. I just replaced the battery it came with with a known good/fully charged one. Seems to fire right up and run, volts are steady at 12 on the dash meter, so far. Slight dips when light's are on, etc,etc. But nothing huge. But I am going to watch that thing like a hawk and get the Alt tested tonight. Thanks again for all the info/advice. If it wasn't for the people on this board I would have ran my rig into the nearest sinkhole and been done with it.
 
Joined
Jan 8, 2004
Messages
2,122
Location
Emerald City
Jeepers...that's allot of info. Thanks Ya'll!! Here's the new skinny. Got the "new" Alt (thanks Steve & Darryl @ Smart Toyota) and got it in, and....well, nothing. Jumped the beast and eureka!! It runs!! and the volt meter in the dash reads 12! Yippie!! and now the volt meter has bottomed out. Crud. I just replaced the battery it came with with a known good/fully charged one. Seems to fire right up and run, volts are steady at 12 on the dash meter, so far. Slight dips when light's are on, etc,etc. But nothing huge. But I am going to watch that thing like a hawk and get the Alt tested tonight. Thanks again for all the info/advice. If it wasn't for the people on this board I would have ran my rig into the nearest sinkhole and been done with it.

Congrats! Yeah this site is a lifesaver most of the time. I've saved $$$$$$$$ with folks help here.

As for your voltage - check your grounds to make sure they are good. While you are at it, check your cables themselves (bend them and look for bad sections). Those can make a big difference if they are bad.

You can also check Volts w/ a Multimeter which may help to see any major loss. But not sure how to walk you through that - i'm pretty electrical stupid...

GL!
 
Joined
Dec 3, 2009
Messages
20
Location
Madison
Okay....life is all getting in the way and I have yet to make it to get the Alt tested. But here's a new wrinkle. I had a thought that if I got a new ALT then one would think that the regulator should probably be replaced as well as I swapped out the one from the old ALT. I took the old one off and the block that the terminals screw into is all sorts of loose. I would think that if the regulator is dead/dieing than that would explain why the ALT isn't working correctly. I think I am getting a little charge but not at the proper levels. Checked the grounds (chassis, ALT, Negative connection on the battery) and they all seem fine. Anyone else have this goofy go on?
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Top Bottom